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Ascending to new heights: A beginner and intermediate's guide to climbing 6000 meter peaks in Nepal during spring season - Namas Adventure

January 12, 2023

Ascending to new heights: A beginner and intermediate's guide to climbing 6000-meter peaks in Nepal during the spring season

Climbing the giants of the Nepalese Himalayas is a dream for many adventurous souls. With elevations reaching up to 8,000 meters, these peaks are not only challenging but also require proper planning and preparation. However, climbing peaks of around 6,000 meters can also be a rewarding experience for beginners and intermediates alike, especially during the spring season in Nepal.

Spring, from March to May, is considered the best time to climb these peaks as the weather is great, and the snow is firm enough for climbing. The period also offers clear views and friendly trekkers along the trails.

In this guide, we will look at some of the best beginner and intermediate 6000-meter peaks to climb in Nepal during the spring season.

Island Peak (6,189 meters)

Also known as Imja Tse, Island peak is a popular climbing peak. It is considered one of the easiest 6000-meter peaks to climb, with a moderate level of technical difficulty. The peak is located in the Khumbu region and can be reached via the famous Everest Base Camp trek.

The climb is relatively straightforward, and the summit provides a panoramic view of the surrounding peaks such as Lhotse Sharr and Ama Dablam.

Mera Peak (6,476 meters)

Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, located in the Makalu region. The peak is a perfect choice for beginner-level climbers who want to experience the thrill of climbing in a remote area. The climb is challenging, with steep sections of ice and snow, but the summit provides a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.

Lobuche East (6,119 meters)

Lobuche east and Island Peak expedition. 2 peak expedition in Nepal

Lobuche East is a popular peak located in the Khumbu region. It is considered a moderate climb with a relatively straightforward route. The peak offers a breathtaking view of the surrounding peaks, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. The peak can be reached via the Gokyo and Everest Base Camp trek

How about combining and making your expeditions even more challenging? Explore our combo itineraries

Chulu West Peak (6,419 meters)

Chulu West peak is an exhilarating 6000-meter-plus climbing peak in the mid-western part of Nepal. This peak is less frequently visited and attracts fewer climbers. Climbers embark on their peak climbing adventure by setting out to Chulu base camp from Ledar village, passing through one of the world's most beautiful trekking routes. The peak sits against the stunning backdrop of the Annapurna massif range, with the Himlung Himal to the northeast and the majestic Manaslu peak in the distance.

Chulu Far East (6,019 meters)

Chulu Far East peak is a high-altitude trekking peak in the Annapurna circuit region. A non-technical and straightforward climb, making it accessible to those without previous technical climbing experience. However, the steep terrain and scree slopes encountered during the approach can make the climb more challenging. It is very similar to Mera Peak expedition.

The Chulu Far East Peak climb itinerary offers climbers the opportunity to witness the stunning natural beauty of the Annapurna region. The summit provides panoramic views of Annapurna II, III & IV, Gangapurna, Manaslu 8163M, Pisang Peak, Chulu West Peak, and Dhaulagiri, as well as the plains of Tibet to the north. You can also further extend your trip to visit the emerald Tilicho lake 4900M and cross the Thorong-la-pass to enter into the forbidden Kingdom of Upper Mustang.

Yala Peak (5732 meters)

Yala Peak, standing at 5732 meters, is a part of the Langtang Lirun Himal range and is situated in close proximity to the Tibetan border. The peak offers a non-technical climb, making it an ideal terrain for novice climbers to gain experience and explore the world of mountaineering.

The base camp for the expedition is located at an altitude of 4500 meters and offers spectacular views of nearby peaks such as Langtang Lirung, Lenpo Gang, Dorje Lakpa, and the majestic Sishapangma on the Tibetan side.

In conclusion, climbing 6000-meter peaks in Nepal during the spring season is a fantastic way to experience the thrill of climbing in the Himalayas. The peaks we listed above offer a challenging yet manageable climb for beginners and intermediates alike, with breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes and mountain peaks. It is important to take note that climbing any peak in the Himalayas should not be taken lightly and having a knowledgeable guide and proper gear is crucial. Always make sure to acclimatize properly, have fun, pay attention to the guide’s instructions, and have an amazing experience of climbing in the Himalayas.

Are you interested in visiting Nepal during the spring season and climbing your first 6000-meter peak in the Himalayas? Our friendly and experienced team is here to help make that dream a reality. Who knows, after your first climb, you may be inspired to tackle even more challenging peaks like Everest. Let's make it happen together!

“Do or Do not, there is no try” - YODA

Namas Adventure Team

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Why the Annapurna region should be on your next adventure list- Namas Adventure

May 25, 2022

Why the Annapurna region should be on your next adventure list

Planning your next holiday adventure to Nepal? We cannot recommend Annapurna highly enough. Less crowded, has pristine beauty, amazing unique cultures/traditions, and tons of mountain climbing inspirations from 6000M, 7000M, and 8000M for climbers of all levels, what more do you need?

Everest region is the most famous destination, hosting amazing beginners to advanced level, 6000M to 8000M mountains. We’ve all seen them in the movies, heard about them, and read about them, which is why it attracts a lot of climbers and trekkers. But, if you are open to the idea of exploring new remote places, where there are few climbers then Annapurna cannot be overlooked. If you are planning to climb Annapurna I peak then visiting the Annpurna is unavoidable.

Also to note, Annapurna avoids the chaos of Lukla's flight which is ever so frustrating and expensive.

So, let’s go explore some of the amazing adventure ideas in the Annapurnas.

6000M peak climbing

Chulu West 6419M

Highlights

Beginner/Intermediate level 6000er
6 days of climbing
Chulu Far East is an extension possibility (+ 4 Days)
Trekking the beautiful Annapurna circuit, Tilicho lake 4900M and crossing Thorong La pass at 5465M
Exploring unique culture and pristine wilderness

Chulu West 6419M, is one of the most amazing beginners to intermediate level peaks to climb in the Annapurna region. Unlike other famous 6000ers like Island Peak and Lobuche East which consist of 1 - 2 climbing days, Chulu West consists of 4 - 6 days of climbing from base camp. Longer days in the alpine moments and best of all avoid the crowds or climbers.

Bonus - double your summits by adding Chulu Far East 6059M on the same itinerary as they both share the same base camp. Learn more about Chulu Expedition on our website and join us as we organize expeditions here every year during spring and autumn.

Chulu West 6419M

p.s.- there are plenty of other un-name or non-commercial 6000M peaks in Annapurna region and these ones are for the explorers, route setters the trail blazers.

7000M Expedition

Himlung Himal 7126M

Expedition Highlights

Himlung Himal Summit 7126M
Accessible, classic mountaineering style and higher summit success rate
The southern flank of the north-west ridge route, Camp 1 - 3 strategy
15 days of climbing
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Nar & Phu Villages and Manaslu conservation area

Himlung Himal 7126M, is located in the remote corners of the Annapurna region. The last village settlement Phu Gaon (Village) is as ancient as it gets. Himlung Himal 7126M mountain is one of the most accessible 7000er with semi-technical difficulty, safer to climb, and with a higher chance of summit success.

This is one of the best commercial climbs at 7000M level in the Annapurna region. Learn more about Himlung Himal in our link. If you are interested to climb your first 7000er mountain this is a great expedition to choose. We depart every year to this magnificent mountain.

Himlung Himal 7126M

ANNAPURNA IV 7525M

Expedition Highlights

Rarely climbed 7500M Peak with few objective dangers
1:1 Climbing support, Personal supplemental oxygen (1 cylinder and regulator) included
Skip entry level 8000M such as Manaslu or Cho-Oyu to prepare for Everest or another 8,000m peak expeditions
Camp 1,2 & 3 strategy. Heated Dining tent, solo tent at base camp
Strong and experienced Climbing Sherpa Team

Annapurna IV 7527M is the perfect mountaineering objective for climbers who wants just the above climbing needs. Annapurna IV is part of the great Annapurna massif range, standing tall between Annapurna II 7937M/26040FT on the western side and Annapurna III 7555M/24787FT to the eastern face. The climbing route has fewer objective dangers and is relatively a semi-technical climb. To clear out the confusion amongst the Annapurna massif range (Annapurna I, II, III, IV, and Gangapurna) IV is the least dangerous and least technical. This mountain is not climbed as often as other peaks in the region.

ANNAPURNA IV 7525M EXPEDITION

Tilicho Peak 7134M

Tilicho peak and Tilicho lake — Tilicho Peak 7134M on the left and Tilicho lake in the middle

Expedition Highlights

Tilicho 7134M summit
North-West Shoulder ridge route, Camp 1, 2 and 3 strategy
14 days climbing period
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Tilicho Lake and Annapurna Circuit trek

Sitting just above the beautiful Tilicho lake 4900M, the Tilicho peak 7134M expedition is another amazing 7000er mountain expedition to add to your mountain expedition list. This mountain is for climbers seeking technical difficulty with tons of mixed climbing in rock/snow and ice terrains with lots of vertical sends.

Tilicho expedition is recommended to climb during the autumn season and there aren’t many climbers to take on this peak. So if you have a team of 4+ climbing members and want to explore new projects then, then this 7000er peak expedition should be the one for you. Learn more about this expedition on our website. Our team is here to assist you on this expedition.

Tilicho Expedition 7134M

The Annapurnas. I - IV, Gangapurna and South

Annapurna I - 8,091M(26,545 ft) World’s 10th height mountain
Annapurna II - 7,937M (26,040 ft)
Annapurna III - 7,555M (24,786 ft)
Annapurna IV - 7,525M (24,688 ft)
Gangapurna - 7,455M (24,457 ft)
Annapurna South - 7,219M (23,684 ft)

Annapurna I is known as one of the most dangerous 8000M mountains to climb. For every 4 climbers, there has been 1 death. The statistics are improving with successful climbs every year. Having said that this mountain is highly prone to sudden and frequent avalanches.

Even the other Annapurna expedition is rarely climbed and is considered one of the toughest peaks to climb. Climbing the Annapurna peaks can be one of the most interesting objectives for mountaineers.

Annapurna treks

Annapurna Circuit trek

One of the most beautiful treks you can go through passing through beautiful villages, Tilicho Lake and Thorong-la-pass 5416M. Simply enjoy a quiet wilderness and be inspired by the scale of Annapurna’s beauty.

Annapurna circuit trek

Annapurna base camp

A cultural classical trek through lush jungles and villages to Annapurna base camp. Enjoy a 7 - 10 days adventure hiking to the base of the might Annapurna I and surrounding Annapurna peaks.

Bonus

Finally, to end your adventure, Pokhara is a must-visit destination. The second biggest city in Nepal is much cleaner and quieter than Kathmandu. Tons of 1- 2 day adventure activities from paragliding, cultural tours, mountain biking, white water rafting, bungee, zip-lines, hiking, or just a beautiful city to relax by the lake. This city has got very chill-relaxed vibes to just enjoy your off-period. Oh not to forget the live-band music spots.

Are you planning your next Himalayan adventure in Nepal? Join us at any of our adventures in the magnificent Annapurna region.

Let’s go and explore. Go. Live Your Story.

Namas Adventure

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Three Peak adventure challenge - Namas Adventure

March 16, 2022

For anyone seeking the ultimate challenges and an adventure of a lifetime, the three peak adventure challenges are the adventure trip go on. Not only are the climbs amazingly beautiful and exhilarating but is also a test of your will, character, and endurance. These adventures are not the biggest or the most technically difficult peaks to climb but the fitness it demands and how you push yourself to overcome the challenges is second to none.

We have two amazing itineraries in two different countries and a bonus three-pass challenge for the no-climbers who seek hiking challenges. These expeditions are for the ones who want to stay away from the busyness of the daily world and just enjoy their climb, seek challenges, test their will, go into the remote corners just to be one with nature, adventure and themselves.

Khumbu Three Peak Expedition

Lobuche East 6119M

Island Peak 6189M

Mera Peak 6476M

If you want to explore the best of the Khumbu region that covers the vast array of gem destinations, overseeing all the giant peaks that we have all been inspired throughout then the Khumbu three-peak expedition challenge is your ultimate adventure. Not only will you be climbing all the peaks over 6000M (Lobuche East 6119M, Island Peak 6189M, and Mera Peak 6476M) this expedition but also crossing over 5 high passes above 5000M+ throughout your itinerary. This expedition is suited for beginner or intermediate-level mountain climbers. But you will need to be in your top shape. There is no way around this if you want to enjoy and accomplish this amazing adventure challenge.

Summiting 3 amazing peaks is one accomplishment but exploring the cultures, hospitality, and warmth of Nepalese people leaves a lifelong mark. Other landmarks highlighted along this expedition are Lukla airport, Namche Bazaar, Gokyo lake, Everest three high passes, Everest base camp, Amphu Lhbatsa pass, Chetra La pass.

Want to take on this 30-day climbing challenge in Nepal? We organize private or group expeditions every year. Find out more on the expedition link below

Khumbu Three Peak Expedition

Peru Three Peak Expedition

Nevado Mateo 5150m

Nevado Ishinca 5530M

Tocllaraju 6032M

For anyone seeking raw and remote climbing challenges in the South America, climbing in Peru is one of the best destinations. With just 16 days of expedition, our three-peak challenge in Peru allows you to climb three amazing peaks in the Cordillera Blanca region.

This is another amazing itinerary for anyone seeking climbing adventure challenges during summer. Our itinerary takes you through 2X5000M peaks and 1X6000M peaks where the difficulty increases gradually with each peak. Tocllaraju 6032 is the most difficult and long climb. Tocllaraju is the toughest and is quite a nutcracker. This final climb will test your adventure and fitness, making you dig deeper and push further. We climb in the remote region of Cordillera Blanca soaking in the beauty of the region and exploring the remote parts of the country.

Join us at Peru every year summer for this amazing three-peak expedition challenge.

Three Peak Expedition - Peru

Three Pass Trek - Everest

This one is one of the holy grail treks of the Everest region. While the Everest base camp trekking route is the busiest trail, this itinerary avoids the crowds and explores the hidden gems of the amazing Everest/Khumbu region. This 22 days trekking adventure is for anyone who does not want to climb peaks but rather enjoys the uphill hike and challenges themselves on high altitude passes.

A perfect way to spend long days in the mountainous terrains of the Everest region, explore local cultures, traditions, amazing beauty, and take on the challenges. Trekkers will have to be fit to take on this particular challenging trek. The main highlights are Lukla airport, Namche Bazaar, Gokyo lake 4700M, Renjo-la pass 5370M, Cho-la pass 5420M, Kongma-la pass 5545M, Kalapatthar 5644M, and Everest base camp 5346M.

If you want a non-technical, high altitude, non-mountain climbing adventure challenge in the Everest region then this expedition is the one for you. Join us in Nepal every year spring and summer for this amazing Everest three-pass trekking challenge.

Three Pass Trek - Everest

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Everything you need to know about Cholatse 6440M climbing expedition - Namas Adventure

February 11, 2022

Everything you need to know about Cholatse 6440M climbing expedition

Cholatse expedition route. South west ridge

Cholate expedition is considered the next stage of commercial climbing a technical peak in the Himalayas. This expedition is for climbers who are planning a technical challenge climbing at 6000M - 64000M altitude. Grade route WI2+ M3-4 A1-2. If you have climbed Ama Dablam or other technical peaks around the world at D+/-, 5.9/5.10 grade levels, then you can consider yourself qualified for the Cholatse expedition. This expedition is not for any beginner but rather for advanced-level climbers.

Although the Khumbu region is the most popular region amongst hikers and climbers, this area around the Gokyo region sees the least amount of visitors, and at the area where Cholatse/Taboche peak is located, there are almost no people in sight. Consider this a hidden gem to climb in the Khumbu region.

Everest or Khumbu region is the mecca for high altitude climbers and every year there is a flock of climbers into the region but Cholatse received fewer climbing teams which make it perfect for climbers who prefer fewer/uncrowded and technical climbing expedition. Also, preks f this expedition is visiting the beautiful Gokyo valley. A must-go destination, acclimatize at 5000M level and set yourself ready for a challenging expedition to Cholatse.

1. When is the best time to climb Cholatse Peak?

Cholatse is best suited to climb during two climbing seasons. Spring (Late March-May) and Autumn (September - November). During both seasons there aren’t as many climbers as other peaks in the Everest regions. So climbers can expect a low number of climbers.

For experienced climbers, winter climb is still possible but this comes with a lot of uncertainties. i.e unstable conditions, tea houses may not be operational or even the ones operating won’t be well-stocked. Pre-arrangements will have to be made but that will also depend on the number of climbers.

2. Is it possible to shorten the Cholatse expedition or what extensions trip are recommended?

Please contact our team for other extension options. (Inquire)

Extensions:

+ Ama Dablam 6810M (Additional 7 - 10 days) - Cost $6000 USD P/P

3. How much does the Cholatse expedition cost? What does the cost include?

The cost of the Ama Dablam and Island Peak expedition with Namas Adventure is $7250 per person for a 27-day itinerary and $9,500 per person for a 21-day express itinerary. Our team provides premium, all-inclusive services, including 1:1 climbing support, local guides who share their knowledge of culture and traditions, and a focus on safety, successful summit strategy, and top-quality base camp support. Our team is dedicated to being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure operator, so climbers can fully enjoy their climbing experience.

NNMGA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$500 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at High Camp
40Kgs per person
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Peak Permits)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

4. Are guides necessary for climbing Cholatse Expedition?

To issue permits for the Cholatse expedition climb, you will have to go through a registered local company. With any commercial expedition, certified guides are a must. But for climbers of all advanced/pro levels, we highly suggest climbing the peak with local guides at least as a backup support crew up to base camp and for any emergency situations. Experienced climbers/guides who want to venture into new routes will still have to be assigned a local guide even if they don’t prefer them climbing with them. So, yes legally speaking guide assistance is required.

Even the usual southwest ridge climbing route does have several crevasses and new hazards may appear every climbing season. This is a very technical and challenging peak, so should not be taken lightly.

5. What is the best acclimatization itinerary for Cholatse expedition?

For climbers, acclimatizing properly for high-altitude climbing trips is a must. Our expedition itinerary planning allows you to acclimatize to higher elevations, giving your body the time it needs to adjust to the altitude. With years of guiding experience and well-known scientific literature, we know that this is the only way for your body to adapt after gaining elevation. With that knowledge and experience, our team has built up the itinerary for this expedition.

On the Cholatse climbing trip, we make sure we have 1 - 2 rotations up to camp 1 so that we can get a feel of climbing. The first crux section in the mountain is the ice wall that leads to a steep ice headwall climbing up to 5700M where camp 1 is set up, this will also be our rotation strategy. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M+. This way you can acclimatize properly, experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you and be stronger to further push onto your summit bid.

6. What training is required for this expedition? Can you suggest me a training plan?

Cholatse climb is by no means an easy or comfortable climbing expedition. This expedition is not for the beginner or intermediate-level climbers. Also, climbers with only high altitude non-technical style experience will struggle in this expedition. This mountain will test you on every inch and will push you further in your technical climbing abilities.

Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, we highly recommend climbers focus on endurance and strength/muscular training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. We can also suggest high-intensity training like cross-fits are a good way to build your overall fitness or kettlebell training are also suggested.

More on our training mountain expedition blog.

download 6000M+ training template

Technical climbing

With your technical climbing abilities for this expedition, you should be comfortable with the ice and mixed climbing. If you can climb anywhere above WI 2+, M 3- 4, and rock 5.4 + then these skills will be necessary for the mountain to overcome the obstacles. Ice and mixed climbing skills are a must for this expedition.

7. How hard is the Cholatse expedition climb?

Cholatse is graded at TD/5. (Alpine/fitness grading link).

Climbers are expected to be exceptionally fit. The day climbers leave from base camp to higher camps, the real expedition begins. Breathing is always a challenge at high altitudes but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time, staying well hydrated, eating properly, your body should recover and adapt to the altitude.

The first real crux starts through navigating the icefall and facing a steep 45 - 60 degree headwall on the west col of the mountain. Just above the ice headwall in the narrow areas of the rocky slab is where we set up camp 1. The most difficult section of the entire expedition is from camp 1 to camp 2. Lots of different styles of climbing on open exposed, unprotected loose rocky sections. Once you are over the rocky part of the climb another 500M vertical climb further on up the knife-edge ridge, crossing crevasses, ice walls, and uneven sections. There is no comfortable place to rest before reaching Camp 1. You can expect a long- tedious climb on this day. Expect to climb around 8+ hours which depends on your climbing ability, eventually to make it to camp 2.

Camp 2 to the summit is relatively short, about 250M but another super-focused day on climbing on knife-edge ridge with 1000M drop on either side. Climbers will have to navigate uneven ice walls and trails that pass through them, climbing over them to make it to the summit. Cholatse Summit is a small plateau, comfortable one for the group to rejoice their summit moment. Summit is only halfway done and you will have to descend down to camp 1. Since climbers will have used a lot of energy climbing up the mountain, they have to stay focused when abseiling down the same exposed steep mountain.

You can expect to climb around 10+ hours on this day as you will have to summit and then descend back to camp1. All your previous physical training, your will, mental strength, and your grit for real adventure will take you through this final day.

More in-depth details in our Cholatse Expedition page strategy.

8. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Cholatse expedition (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears in Nepal?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will highly depend on your clothes to keep you warm, especially during nighttime when temperatures can go down to -10/-25. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? We provide gear rentals exclusively for Namas Adventure clients during our climbs. All the gears are in the best condition, clean, and highest quality. Kailas equipment, black diamond, Mountain Hardwear provides all-out mountaineering gears. (Namas Equipment hire link)

HIRE EQUIPMENTS WITH NAMAS ADVENTURE

If you want to hire it from other local sources in Nepal, our simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it.

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like La Sportiva G2 or Scarpa phantom. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

9. What types of foods are available during the expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. In the high altitudes, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.

Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.

10. What trip insurance will I need for Cholatse expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon.

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Cholatse Expedition?

Recommended 7000M Expeditions

Once you have completed your expedition and when you feel like you want to take on higher peaks we can suggest other 7000M+ peaks that you can aim for.

HIMLUNG HIMAL 7126M EXPEDITION

HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION

Himlung Himal Summit 7126M
The south flank of North-west ridge route, Camp 1 - 3 strategy
7 - 13 days in Himlung Himal Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Nar & Phu Villages and Manaslu conservation area

BARUNTSE PEAK 7129M EXPEDITION

BARUNTSE EXPEDITION

Baruntse 7129M summit, Mera Peak 6476M (Acclimatisation training peak)
South-east ridge route, Camp 1 - 2 strategy
5-10 days in Baruntse Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Amphu Lhabtsa Pass 5800M and Khumbu Valley

TILICHO PEAK 7134M EXPEDITION (TECHNICAL CLIMB)

TILICHO 7134M EXPEDITION

Tilicho 7134M summit
North-West Shoulder ridge route, Camp 1, 2 and 3 strategy
7 - 14 days in Tilicho Base Camp 4910M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Tilicho Lake and Annapurna Circuit trek

Cholatse climbing is a must for any climbers who wish to push their technical abilities in the mountains. Granted it does not offer the charm of 8000M but the style of climbing needed during this expedition pushes you to your limits. We hope the information we have provided will help you decide or prepare for your outing in the best way possible. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal, join us on our Cholatse climbing expedition! You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all, we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

Cholatse 6440m Expedition

Do you plan to climb and summit the amazing Cholatse 6440M in Nepal? If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Challenge yourself. Dare great things. What’s stopping you?

GO. LIVE YOUR STORY

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11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal - Namas Adventure

November 15, 2021

11 Peak expeditions upto 6500M to climb in 2022, Himalayas, Nepal

Finally, as the world is opening and countries easing restrictions, it is now time to go on those amazing mountaineering adventures. The best mountain adventure itineraries are mixed experiences of raw alpine climbing moments, giant beautiful mountains, remote environments, welcoming locals, unique cultures, newer perspectives, and adventure challenges that bring upon that realization of what’s possible for yourself. The past 2 years have been challenging to many of us and now it is finally an opportunity to reflect and venture out. In this post, we have listed 11 amazing peak climbing expeditions up to 6500M destinations that will satisfy your mountaineering needs in 2022.

POPULAR PEAKS (Beginner or Intermediate level climbers)

Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M

For any climbers wanting to start their journey of climbing in the Himalayas, we highly recommend climbing Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M in 2022. Both the peaks are semi-technical climbs in nature. Mostly mixed climbing, jummar, and abseiling are required.

This expedition will help you understand the nature and ways of climbing in the Himalayan peaks and glimpse into the culture of Nepal. Although we will be able to train and help beginner climbers during this expedition to fully enjoy your trip, we recommend climbers to have a basic mountaineering course, ice climbing, or even a climbing course. Any one of these courses will help you when climbing these 2X6000M+ peaks. Also, remember you will have to be physically fit (endurance and strength).

P.S.- we have departures in spring and autumn every year. 🙂

Lobuche East & Island peak Expedition

Mera Peak 6476M

If you are an absolute beginner novice climber and want to jump straight into climbing a Himalayan peak then we can vouch Mera Peak 6476M will be the right expedition for you.

Mera Peak is classed as the highest trekking peak in Nepal. There are no technical objective dangers apart from a few small crevasses, but with guided ascents, this expedition is a perfect way to start your mountaineering journey in 2022. We provide jummar, abseil, and how to walk with crampons on training during this expedition. Lastly, the views from the summit are just out of this world. Several 8000M such as Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and several 7000ers and 6000er peaks are clearly visible on a clear weather day. You won’t forget this climb 🙂. Also, physically you will have to be fit in both endurance and strength.

Mera Peak Expedition

1 Month getaway, peak challenge

Khumbu Three Peak Expedition

Climbers looking for month-long expeditions to spend some lengthy alpine moments exploring different 6000M peaks with different climbing challenges then, Khumbu Three peak expedition is the perfect expedition to choose in 2021. Although all the peaks are classed for beginner climbers we would recommend this to intermediate level climbers who want to build their endurance for climbing further into higher 7000M peaks. During this expedition, you will come across Baruntse 7129M, Makalu 8463M, Ama Dablam 6810M, Everest 8848M, Lhotse 8516M. So the next time you want to climb higher into 7000M or 8000M giants then this is the perfect recon expedition.

You can start either way from Mera Peak passing through Amphu Lhabtsa pass into Khumbu valley to climb Island Peak and Lobuche East or the other way around. Either way, this expedition will test your patience and make sure your endurance tank is full for this one. You are in for an amazing month-long journey.

Note - We organise Khumbu three peak expeditions every year, both during spring and autumn.

KHUMBU THREE PEAK EXPEDITION

REMOTE AND FEWER CROWD EXPEDITIONS

While the Everest region dominates the number of visitors they receive each year, we highly encourage climbers to consider something different and other beautiful destinations in Nepal. There is no shortage of raw alpine moments and you can find peaks that are non-technical, semi, or super technical in nature. We believe these destinations deserve your attention and you won’t be disappointed by any of the adventures you choose in these remote parts of Nepal. So, let’s go and explore these least explored peaks and claim our summits.

Chulu West 6419M and Far East 6059M

Chulu Peaks are situated in the heart of the Annapurna circuit region. There are 3 peaks and summits (West, Far-east, and East) in the Chulu mountain range. For anyone seeking a non-technical climb, we recommend peak Chulu Far east 6059M which is suitable for novice climbers and is pretty much a trekking peak.

Chulu West 6419M is a semi-technical climbing peak and with the assistance of our guides, beginner or intermediate level climbers will be able to successfully climb Chulu West peak. If you want to explore the beautiful Annapurna region and climb beginner-level peaks in the region then we have departures here every mid-spring and autumn. We highly recommend adding another 3 days to your expedition to visit the emerald blue 😍 Tilicho Lake 4900M.

Join us every year on this remote expedition in the beautiful Annapurna region. This region and peak certainly deserve your attention and alpine moments.

chulu west expedition

Yala Peak 5700M

Another remote destination in the Langtang region. Perfect climbing peak novice climbers who have never climbed any peaks. We recommend this amazing peak climbing expedition to anyone who wants to avoid the crowd and somewhat morden Everest region.

Langtang valley was the most affected region by the 2015’s earthquake in Nepal and ever since this region has been struggling to welcome back its visitors. The locals will thank you for choosing Langtang as your preferred destination and there is no shortage of other peak climbing objectives in this region.

Want to explore and climb Yala Peak 5700M in the Langtang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.

inquire - yala peak private expedition

Saribung Peak 6328M

Saribung Peak in the centre with glacier hole.

Saribung Peak Climbing has is another option for anyone seeking a new peak climbing destination to climb in the remote Mustang region of Nepal close to the Nepal-Tibet border. What’s particularly interesting about this expedition is its entry in the forbidden Kingdom of Mustang which exposes climbers to newer and diverse cultures of the Nepalese Tibetan traditions. There are very few trekkers and climbers going into this region.

The peak is classed at PD grade with fitness level grade at 2 to 3 for any interested climbers. This expedition features off the beaten path trekking to base camp, semi-technical climb, old isolated villages such as Nar-Phu and from the summit on a clear summit day, giant mountains such as Nilgiri Himal (7,061 m), Himlung Himal (7,126m), Lamjung Himal (6,983m), Mt. Manaslu (8,163m), and Annapurna II (7,937m).

The best time to go plan this expedition is during Spring (Mid March-May) or Early Autumn (End of August - November). Participation when taking part in these expeditions needs to be moderately fit although the peak itself is not a super touch technical climbing peak.

Want to climb the remote Saribung peak 6328 in the remote corner of the Upper Mustang region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.

Inquire - Saribun Peak Expedition

Larkya Peak, Sano (Small) Summit 5807M or Thulo (Big) Summit 6249M

Larkya Peak 6249M expedition is another hidden gem in the Manaslu circuit region. The peak is classed at PD+ mountain grade with 2 to 3 fitness grade requirements. You will need around 18 to 20 days to complete this expedition.

The trek leading up to the Larkya pass is a beautiful journey and the base camp lies close to the pass. Larkya peak expedition hosts two summits (Sano and Thulo). The climb to the Thulo or higher summit is longer hence a high camp has to be set up, which is recommended in order to acclimatize properly before proceeding higher. With the high camp set up, it is a safer way to access both the summits.

Given its location, you can be guaranteed to see the giant views of Manaslu 8163M, the Annapurnas, Ganesh Himal, and beyond.

Want to climb and double your summit at Larkya Peaks in the beautiful Manaslu circuit region? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.

Inquire - larkya Peak Expedition

Dhampus Peak 6012M (Thapa Peak)

Dhampus Peak 6012M is also referred to as Thapa peak. This is another beautiful trek and peak expedition to climb in the Dhaulagiri circuit region. Dhampus peak is a chained prominent peak of Dhaulagiri along with Tukuche Himal to the west of Kali Gandaki valley.

This peak is also graded at PD+ mountain grade and 2 to 3 fitness level grade. When there is less snow in the peak the climb is straightforward mostly on the slopes and a few rock scrambling sections around the summit area. When there are ice and snow then it gets a bit challenging as it required mixed climbing. Although this peak is suitable for beginner-level climbers we encourage climbers to at least have a winter mountaineering course, which will give you greater confidence during your expedition.

There are two routes to reach the base camp via Dhampus pass 5240M and Kali Gandaki valley side of the mountain to a makeshift Yak heard campsite and finally crossing to Dhampus pass. Once climbers reach Dhaulagiri base camp they camp here for 1 or 2 days and then head higher to french pass to finally head to the hidden valley where the base camp is set up for Dhampus peak summit bid. Totally isolated, raw, and with fewer climbs this expedition can be one of the most rewarding expeditions to accomplish and keep in your adventure memories.

Want to explore the raw Dhaulagiri base camp and climb the totally isolated Dhampus Peak 6012M? We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members. Simply inquire and our team will be able to help you with your expedition.

Inquire - Dhampus Peak Expedition

TECHNICAL CLIMB (For Experienced climbers only)

Cholatse Peak 6440M

Cholaste Peak 6440M expedition is not for inexperienced or intermediate-level climbers. This expedition is considered more of alpine-style climbing. Graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grading this mountain expedition is a serious undertaking. Cholatse peak is rated as the same or above Ama Dablam 6819M when comparing the mountain difficulty levels. There are no easy routes to the summit and descend and the southwest ridge is mostly used by the expedition team.

It is one of the more prominent peaks on the approach to the Mt. Everest Base camp. South West Ridge route is considered the expedition route which involves climbing steep snow and ice pitches linking two camps to the summit. The route ascends through snow slopes leading to a crux section on the rock. The climb is mostly on glacial ice on an exposed ridge. Once past the difficult section, the climbing reaches a steep and another exposed ridgeline that plateaus onto the summit dome. There are fewer teams in Cholatse compared to the Ama Dablam expedition.

P.S- We will be organizing Cholatse Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:2 guide/client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas. We can organize a private expedition with 1 or 2+ members

Inquire cholatse expedition

Taboche (Tawoche) Peak 6501M

Climbers looking to climb other 6000M expeditions that are challenging and technical then Taboche Peak 6501M is another option. This is a very striking peak that is connected via a long ridge with the Cholatse peak. This 6500M peak is also graded at D mountain grade with 4 to 5 fitness level grades. This expedition can be combined with the Cholatse peak expedition sharing the same base camps.

Getting up the mountain takes a lot of your energy and is only recommended to experienced skilled climbers especially those seeking technical alpine-style climbs on steep slopes, penetrating rocky pitches, and thick, dense ice. The total expedition can take around 25+ days to complete. Interested climbers should be highly skilled in ice and mixed climbing and climbing in exposed sections of high altitude.

The base camp is set up at 5200m and the following acclimatization at either Gokyo RI or Kalapatthar. Climbing up the peak is a strenuous journey with some experienced climbers taking around 10 days to complete the 1200M climb to reach the summit. This is a rocky, icy, and technically competent mountain.

P.S- We will be organizing Taboche Peak and Chotase Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing Cholatse and other high technical peaks in the Himalayas.

INQUIRE - TABOCHE PEAK EXPEDITION

KYAJO RI 6186M EXPEDITION

Right in the central of Khumbu valley lies this beautiful technical peak. Kyajo Ri 6186M is graded at AD+ mountain grade with 3 to 4 fitness levels required to take on this peak. There is almost no fixed rope on the route and there are fewer unacceptable dangers when compared to Cholatse or Taboche Peak. Kyajo Ri involves steep slopes and prior knowledge of roped travel, mixed ice and rock climbing, and crampon techniques, and ice ax arrest skills are required.

Southwest ridge is the normal and safer route accessed via the southeast col (two steep mixed sections required to get there from Machhermo) and a descent to the Kyajo glacier below. Teams will do about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. Mostly 55°-60° snow and ice, some serac exposure, with some steeper mixed ground near the summit. Excellent view of the whole Khumbu (the summit is the highest point on the massif that divides the Gokyo and Thame valleys, N of Namche Bazaar). With good altitude preparation, possible in two long days from Machhermo. The summit is a sharp-edged peak with no room for many climbers at once.

There aren’t many expeditions running in this peak in any given years, at least yet, and can host a comfortable and beautiful base camp deep in the isolated section of the Khumbu region. This peak is perfect to test our tour technical climbing abilities.

Note- We will be organizing Kyajo Ri Expedition from 2022 (Autumn) onwards with a 1:1 guide client ratio. If you want a more challenging expedition at 6000M with a more alpine-style expedition then our team is set and ready to welcome you and help you achieve your dream of climbing high technical peaks in the Himalayas.

Conclusion

There are plenty of mountaineering objectives to take upon for your mountain climbing adventure in Nepal. This is no new news. Where ever you stand on your climbing experience and level there is plenty of inspirations and challenging mountain peaks to climb in Nepal. As always Everest region dominates with travelers every year but even with that, there are pockets of destinations that host fewer climbers like Cholatse, Taboche, or Kyajo Ri peak mountains.

Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, and Island Peak will see more climbers because of their accessibility, no of teams, and classic guided mountaineering styles. These features of the mountain make it favorable for most beginner or intermediate level climbers to take on these beautiful peaks.

Meanwhile, Chulu West or the Far East, Yala Peak, Dhampus peak, Larkya peak, Saribung peaks lie in the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri zones. These areas are already isolated and there are fewer trekkers and climbers in this region. If you particularly want to be away from everyone and want to enjoy your mountain expeditions in isolated and be exposed to unique cultures and traditions then these are the 6000M expeditions we recommend for beginner or intermediate level climbers in 2022.

Question

Are you planning your next mountain expedition in Nepal? What is your preference when planning a mountain expedition in Nepal (Remote or famous peaks)? What is your experience level? Are you a novice, beginner, intermediate, or professional skill level climber? Which mountain peak do you want to climb in the Himalayas?

Our team can assist you in your dream expeditions and help you achieve your summit safely while creating lifelong memories to cherish.

Climb that mountain because it’s there.

Go. Live Your Story.

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Climbers Guide: Lobuche East 6119M and Island Peak 6189M Expedition - Namas Adventure

October 13, 2021

Summit push to Lobuche East 6119M

Island Peak Summit bid

Lobuche East and Island peak Exped

Climbers Guide: Lobuche East & Island Peak Expedition

Mountain Overview

Lobuche East Peak

Elevation: 6119M / 200075FT

Co-ordinates: 27.9595° N, 86.7899° E

Location: Khumbu Region

Parent Mountain: Lobuche

Summits: 1 summit and extension Lobuche West Summit

Country: Nepal

Mountain Overview

Island Peak (Imja Tse)

Elevation: 6189M / 20305FT

Co-ordinates: 43.6605° N, 70.1907° W

Location: Imja Valley

Parent Mountain: Lhotse Shar

Summits: 1 main summit

Country: Nepal

About the Mountains

Lobuche East summit push

Lobuche East summit 6119M

Lobuche East Peak 6119M is one of the most popular 6,000+ m climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training peaks before making attempting the summit. Our team will set up base camp and high camps when summiting this peak. This peak is a semi-technical climb where most of the technical section only falls after high camp to summit.

Lobuche East Expedition

Island Peak (Imja Tse)

Climbing to summit of Island Peak

Final ridge to Island Peak summit

Island Peak 6189M (Imja tse) is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. The peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine 2B. The final vertical wall to the summit is the only major challenge when climbing this peak. Some season sees glaciers opening where ladders have to be fixed to cross or climb the glacier to follow the route. But this changes every season.

ISLAND PEAK EXPEDITION

History

The first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25, 1984.

The team who first climbed Imja Tse or Island peak comprised Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie, and seven other Sherpas.

How to get here?

There are two main routes to get to Lobuche East and Island Peak

Via Mera Peak and Amphu Lhabtsa pass (Three Peak Expedition)
Via Lukla

Are permits required?

Yes, permits are 100% required. Permit costs $250 USD (Spring) and $125 USD (Autumn) Per person.

Climbing Routes

Lobuche East Peak 6119M: South East ridge (PD) grade.

Island Peak 6189M Peak: South West ridge (PD) grade.

Express Itinerary

With the use of helicopters after the summit, the expedition can be shortened up to 20/21 days. Flying from either peaks Base camps to Lukla.

Further extensions

+ Add Mera Peak (Three Peak Expedition)

Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip to trek through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the mountain and Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).

Khumbu Three peak

Baruntse 7129M Expedition

Baruntse Peak is a 7000er mountain peak located just between the ever famous Khumbu region and the raw Makalu region. This peak range forms a giant wall seperating the two region. Crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho to the north-west by the Imja glacier, and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. Baruntse mountain stretch has four ridges and four summits. The three main ridges are situated between the glaciers, the fourth main summit lies to the west near Cho Polu peak. More detailed informations about Baruntse Expedition in the link below

Baruntse expedition link

Ama Dablam 6810M Expedition

Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam climb is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.

Ama dablam Expedition link

Other highlights during these expeditions

✅Tenzing Hillary ✈️Lukla Airport 2800M

Land in Lukla 2845M, Tenzing - Hillar airport. Day 3 of your itinerary and where your adventure begins.

✅Namche Bazzar 3375M

Namche Bazaar 3440M. Hub of Everest region and home to Sherpas.

After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)

✅Gokyo Lake 4900M

Emerald lake Gokyo seen from Gokyo ri falls on the Itinerary

The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)

✅Ultimate Bucket List - 🏔Everest Base Camp 5346M

Namas Adventure group at EBC 5346M

Everest Base Camp 5346M

The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.

Everest Base Camp

Want to plan your expedition to the Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

What’s stopping you? Go. Explore more.

Live Your Story

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Everything you need to know about Chulu West 6419M climbing expedition - Namas Adventure

September 15, 2021

Everything you need to know about Chulu West 6419M climbing expedition

Chulu West peak is a 6000M+ climbing peak in the mid-western part of Nepal. The peak is located in the beautiful region of the Annapurna region. Trekking through one of the world’s most beautiful trekking routes, climbers set apart to Chulu base camp from Ledar village to embark on their peak climbing adventure. The peak resides on the backdrop of the Annapurna massif range, Himlung Himal 7246M, Nemjung, and Manalsu 8163M.

Annapurna region is not packed with climbers and trekkers compared to the Everest region. Any climbers seeking remote and less traffic on their trail, this will be the right option for you. Having said that the beauty of the Himalayas is not compromised around the Annapurna region. It offers a different beauty and leaves the impression of its own. If you as us Annapurna circuit region is one of our favorites because of its access points, cultures, landscapes, giant mountains, remoteness and we could go on forever.

No. of climbers

2020: 4 climbers
2019: 73 climbers
2018: 105 climbers
2017: 90 climbers

But before you embark on one of the most amazing adventures, we have listed 11 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Chulu West peak climbing expedition.

1. When is the best time to climb Chulu West peak?

Chulu West is best suited to climb during two climbing seasons. Spring (Late March-May) and Autumn (September - November). During both the season there aren’t as many climbers as other peaks in the Everest regions. So climbers can expect a low-medium number of climbers.

2. Is it possible to shorten the Chulu West expedition or If I want to extend my expedition what other options do I have?

Chulu West expedition can definitely be shortened but this comes at an additional cost. At Namas adventure, we do provide these services for private client groups (2+ members). The shortest Itinerary we can make it up to is a 14-day itinerary. Extra charges apply of an additional $3000 - $3500 applies since we will have to charter helicopter services. Please contact our team for other flexible options.

If you want to extend your trip then we would like to recommend the following two other destinations that is in the same region.

Chulu west & far east expedition. Double your summits. (inquire for extension)

Chulu Far East 6059M

Chulu Far East Ridge to summit

Summit push to Chulu East 6584M

Chulu East 6059M is another peak that includes some technical climbing sections along with glacier walks. The approach to the summit is as expected strenuous with two high-altitude camps (5400M and 6050M).

3. How much does it cost to climb Chulu West? What does the cost include?

With Namas Adventure, Chulu West expedition costs $4500 per person. We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead.

List of what’s included in your booking.

NNMGA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$300 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:2 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at High Camp
30Kgs per person
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (ACAP and Peak Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablets, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

4. Are guides necessary for climbing Chulu West?

To issue a permit for the Chulu West Peak climb, you will have to go through a registered local company, for this purpose guides are hired. For beginner to intermediate climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The usual climbing route does have a crevasse and new hazards may appear every climbing season. Experienced climbers/guides who want to venture into new routes will still have to be assigned a local guide even if they don’t prefer them climbing with them. So, yes legally speaking guide assistance is required.

5. What is the best acclimatization itinerary for Chulu West expedition?

Chulu-West climb is slightly longer for 6400M altitude. A total of 5-6 climbing days are required due to the nature of difficult terrains but the climb is possible. (2021 Spring expedition report).

On this climbing trip, we make sure your itinerary has high camp acclimatization combined with trekking gradually to higher elevations. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M+. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you, and had gained enough strength to make your summit climb.

6. What training is required for this expedition? Can you suggest me a training plan?

Chulu West is by no means an easy climb like every mountain expeditions but this Chulu West or East climb is suitable for beginner to intermediate level climbers. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, we highly recommend climbers to focus on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. We can also suggest high-intensity training like cross-fits are a good way to build your overall fitness or kettlebell training are also suggested. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

download 6000M+ training template

Courses like Level - 1 mountaineering are also helpful tools. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.

7. How hard is Chulu West Peak climb?

Chulu West is graded at PD/3. (Alpine/fitness grading link).

Trail blazing on way to Chulu West high camp. Expect deep snow during spring expeditions.

Climbers are expected to be physically fit. The day leading to the summit is always the longest enduring and tough period of your itinerary. Breathing is always a challenge at high altitudes but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time, staying well hydrated, eating properly, your body should recover and adapt to the altitude.

Once you depart from high camp the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. You will be walking for 4-6 hours to reach high camp. Summit day climb starts early (3 or 4 am) with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit by sunrise. This will be the most challenging and rewarding part of the climb. You can expect to hike around 10+ hours on this day as you will have to summit and then descend back to high camp. All your previous physical training, your will, mental strength, and your grit for real adventure will take you through this final day and to the summit.

8. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Chulu west climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears in Nepal?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will highly depend on your clothes to keep you warm, especially during nighttime when temperatures can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gears.

Renting your gears in Nepal? We provide gear rentals exclusively for Namas Adventure clients during our climbs. All the gears are in the best condition, clean, and highest quality. Kailas equipment, black diamond, Mountain hardwear provides all-out mountaineering gears. (Namas Equipment hire link)

HIRE EQUIPMENTS WITH NAMAS ADVENTURE

If you want to hire it from other local sources in Nepal, our simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it.

Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Chulu West

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa phantom. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

9. What types of foods are available during the expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

10. What trip insurance will I need for Chulu West expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Chulu West climb? Can I combine other 6000M+ peaks with the Chulu West expedition?

Recommended 7000M Expeditions

Once you have completed your expedition and when you feel like you want to take on higher peaks we can suggest other 7000M+ peaks that you can aim for.

HIMLUNG HIMAL 7126M EXPEDITION

HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION

Himlung Himal Summit 7126M
The south flank of North-west ridge route, Camp 1 - 3 strategy
7 - 13 days in Himlung Himal Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Nar & Phu Villages and Manaslu conservation area

BARUNTSE PEAK 7129M EXPEDITION

BARUNTSE EXPEDITION

Baruntse 7129M summit, Mera Peak 6476M (Acclimatisation training peak)
South-east ridge route, Camp 1 - 2 strategy
5-10 days in Baruntse Base camp 5460M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Amphu Lhabtsa Pass 5800M and Khumbu Valley

TILICHO PEAK 7134M EXPEDITION (TECHNICAL CLIMB)

TILICHO 7134M EXPEDITION

Tilicho 7134M summit
North-West Shoulder ridge route, Camp 1, 2 and 3 strategy
7 - 14 days in Tilicho Base Camp 4910M and higher
1:2 Guide/Client ratio throughout the expedition
Tilicho Lake and Annapurna Circuit trek

Chulu West Peak is a mountain climbing trip that every traveler should experience at least once. We hope the information we have provided will help you decide or prepare for your outing in the best way possible. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal, join us on our Chulu West climbing expedition! You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all, we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

CHULU WEST EXPEDITION

Do you plan to climb and summit the amazing Chulu West peak in Nepal? If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Challenge yourself. Dare great things. What’s stopping you?

GO. LIVE YOUR STORY

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Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure

July 21, 2021

Lobcuhe East 6119M

Island Peak 6189M

Mera Peak 6476M

Visual Journey, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Nepal

Khumbu three peak expedition

Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best expedition program for anyone seeking long mountain adventure days and a feast of Himalayan climbing experience. Climbers will summit three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Trekking through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the lifestyle in the mountains, witness Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).

Climbers pass through several beautiful villages of Khumbu and Makalu/Barun valley. Once climbers arrive at the base of each peak alpine camping beings. The expedition is suitable for anyone with beginner to intermediate skill levels. Past experience is not mandatory but climbers must have very good endurance fitness since this is a month-long expedition. Expect a little bit of everything on the route – scrambling on the rock, climbing on steep ice/snow, and multiple camps on the mountain. Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of three amazing peaks in Nepal.

After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)

The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)

Namas Adventure group at EBC 5346M

Everest Base Camp 5346M

Everest Base Camp

The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.

Summit push to Lobuche East 6119M

Ascending Lobuche East 6119M

Summit ridge Lobuche East 6119M

lobuche East & Island peak

Island Peak 6189 seen from Chukung

Island Peak vertical wall

Near Island Peak Summit 6189M

Island peak

Climbing and crossing the challenging Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800M.

Mera peak

Mera high camp 5800M is one of the iconic high camps. Climbers will come across the final or beginning leg of their Khumbu Three Peak expedition. Out of all the three summits, Mera peak summit offers the most grander view of the Himalayas. Most of the 8000M+ in the Khumbu and Makalu region can be seen. On the left Cho-Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu to Kanchenjunga in the far right hand side. Chamlang another 7000M+ peak can be seen in front (slightly to right) from the summit and other Himalayan peaks are clearly visible. On a clear summit day, the view is something out of this world.

Namas flag on Mera Summit

Mera Peak summit 6476M

Just below Mera summit

Khumbu Three Peak Expedition

Want to plan your expedition to the Khumbu Three Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

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Khumbu Three peak expedition. Building blocks into higher expeditions - Namas Adventure

June 14, 2021

Climbers pushing for Lobuche East 6119M Summit. (One of the peaks during Khumbu Three Peak Expedition)

Khumbu Three peak expedition. Building blocks into higher expeditions

The dream is to go higher. We are always in search of greater challenges or pushing ourselves to see what’s possible. Seeking challenges and pushing beyond has always been one of the best traits of humankind. Adventures like climbing the grand beautiful Himalayan peak are an amazing feat to undertake and require every bit of your will and determination. The outcome we get from these amazing experiences is priceless and only you can define how much do you want to push yourself.

When taking on higher and greater expeditions, we must be honest and humble enough mostly with ourselves to understand our ability and build on gaining the right experiences. Extreme high altitude expedition like Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Himlung, Manaslu or the mighty Everest requires you to commit on longer duration and cold days in high altitude. (Comes with plenty of great moments each day). You as an adventurer need to understand the nature of gruesome, thin aired conditions. High altitude expeditions range from 30 to 60 days with at least 60% of your total itinerary climbing in low pressured air gasping conditions in remote high altitude locations. You need to be able to deal with it and enjoy the good suffering (that is that climbers associate it with) of your entire journey. The setbacks are inescapable, so one must learn to be patient and improvisation due to unforeseen weather forces is inevitable. How to deal with the fear and push on even when you feel like it never ends and so on.

Also, the good stuff. The base camp cheers to an appreciation of water and warm food. Being a community in the mountains, helping and motivating each other. The joy of completing each milestone and finally the summit moment. Being overpowered by the force and beauty of nature. Feeling almost non-existent yet existent with what you have accomplished. You need to build on everything, the good and the bad experiences that come with the nature of climbing high-altitude mountains if you successfully want to make it to the summit and enjoy your climb. It is within the reach of a mere mortal but building the right experience is super important.

We highly suggest undertaking Khumbu three-peak expedition or even two 6000M+ peaks like Lobuche East and Island peak or mixing any of the other 6000M+ peaks (Mera Peak). Being in the mountains for 20+ days will help you get the feel and patience needed when climbing in the Himalayas. This will help you understand how climbing in high altitude technical and non-technical section feels like. You certainly will get the feel of mountaineering but at 6000M+ level. You will encounter similar moments when taking upon further and higher expeditions, there is no escaping from this. So being mentally prepared and having that experience is key. After completing these expeditions you will be prepared to push further in future higher and more challenging expeditions.

Want to plan your Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Or even 2X6000M peak climb, Lobuche East 6119M and Island peak 6189M climbs in Nepal? We organize these peak climbing trips every year. Our team is here to assist you throughout your climb and help you successfully summit the peaks in the Himalayas. Fun times are guaranteed and you will not be disappointed. Your safety is super important to us. All our guides are IFMGA or Nepal Mountaineering association trained and certified. Rich with technical skills, Sherpa raw power, and tons of smile and humor. Having a great time when climbing is a must. Join us when you plan one or email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and we will get back to you asap.

Climb on. Push yourself. Seek adventure.

Go.

Live Your Story.

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Mera Peak Ski Expedition. New possibilities in the Himalayas - Namas Adventure

June 10, 2021

Mera Peak Ski Expedition. New possibilities in the Himalayas

Mera Peak has been attracting high-altitude ski lovers and we can understand why. Although ski adventure has yet to be a fully commercial adventure activity in Nepal, foreigners seeking high altitude ski thrill adventures have been navigating the slopes of the Himalayas. Nepal has some of the highest mountains in the world and all the ski enthusiasts must be wondering why does Nepal not already have ski facilities in place? Poor infrastructure and lack of knowledge in ski sport and business models have been a foreign thing for Nepal.

But with changing time and the need for more adventure options rather than just climbing, ski sport has been gaining attention and particularly on the slopes of Mera peak. We would say it’s pretty high, wild and off-piste but that is what makes it attractive when planning a ski expedition in Nepal. Spring sees a lot of fresh snow which may make it an ideal condition to but the ones who have skied in the past, rather prefers planning skiing during autumn. With a good amount of both stable and fresh snow, skiing in autumn is much more enjoyable. We understand why Mera Peak attracts skiers as it has fewer objective hazards in normal climbing routes (i.e. crevasse, rock falls, avalanches) and the mountain has a wide section to climb or ski down making it much safer to ski compared to a narrow couloir. Our guide members who are not ski trained would always say that skiing down Mera would be so much fun and less tiring 😅. But yes ski Expedition in Mera is a new possibility adding new adventure activity in the Nepalese mountaineering scene. Nepal now has IFMGA certified ski-trained guides who can assist you in making the climb and shred down the slopes of Mera peak together. This will be one hell of an adventure for anyone planning their expedition. To top that up, you will be skiing down a peak higher than the whole of North America or Europe, how about that for a portfolio of mountains you have skied down. Skiers will have to be proficient and at least have 50+ hours of ski sessions with few high altitudes off-piste ski experiences.

MEAR PEAK

Permits are a must ($1000 for 1 - 10 skiers) and an additional $100 per additional member. A separate Mera Peak climbing permit is also needed. Want to plan your next high-altitude ski expedition in Nepal? Email us at bookings@namasadventure.com to plan your adventure and our team will be more than happy to assist you and help achieve the Mera Peak 6476M summit and safely ski down Mera Peak.

Go dare great things. Live your story.

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12 Important things to know about Khumbu three peak expedition, Nepal - Namas Adventure

February 18, 2021

12 Important things to know about Khumbu three peak expedition, Nepal

View from Mera Peak Summit

Island Peak Summit ridge

Climbing Lobuche East

1. Which mountains does Khumbu Three Peak expedition include?

Mera Peak 6476M is one of the best climbing peaks suitable for all beginner/novice climbers. Even if you are an experienced climber who wants to enjoy a decent climbing holiday, then Mera peak still is a good choice. Located in Makalu Barun Valley, this peak offers one of the most perfect remote adventure holiday experiences. Trekking through the remote villages, rugged trail paths up and down the hills, through forest trails, and of course beautiful mountains all around.

Island Peak 6189M is one of the most popular 6,000M+ climbing peaks in Nepal. The climb is suitable for beginner/intermediate level climbers. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers in Nepal, with its standard climbing route having a difficulty rating of 2B.

Lobuche East Peak 6119M is another popular 6,000+ m climbing peak in the Khumbu region. This peak is also suitable for beginner/intermediate-level climbers. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training/acclimatisation peaks before making attempting the expedition.

2. When is the best time to climb Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?

Khumbu three peak is best suited to climbing during two climbing seasons. Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September - November). Climbers can expect the spring season to be busier because of all major 8000M+ expeditions.

3. Is it possible to shorten the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?

Yes, the trip can be shortened, but it will incur additional costs. After reaching the summit of the final peak, the climbers will be flown via helicopter from the final base camp or village. The cost of the charter will depend on the drop-off location and the number of passengers, with prices ranging from $4000 to $4500. Our team at Namas Adventure has established relationships with reliable helicopter service providers and is able to offer flexible options. Contact us for further information.

4. How much does it cost to climb Khumbu Three Peak? What does the cost include?

At Namas Adventure, the cost of the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition is $6250 per person. Our company offers premium, all-inclusive peak climbing services, so climbers can fully focus on their adventure without worrying about any logistics. With our experienced team, you can have a stress-free and enjoyable climbing holiday.

List of what’s included in your booking.

NMA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$300 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:2 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at Base Camp and High Camp
40 Kgs per person
Arrival at hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

5. Are guides necessary for the Khumbu Three Peak expedition?

To obtain a permit for climbing all three peaks, it is mandatory to work with a registered local company and hire guides. We strongly recommend that beginner to intermediate-level climbers climb with guides for their safety and to maximize their experience. This expedition lasts for 30 days, and the climb will be physically demanding, so having experienced guides is essential.

When climbing the Island Peak route, you will be required to navigate through crevasses and cross ladders, and new challenges may present themselves each climbing season. Even experienced climbers or guides who prefer to venture into new routes will still be required to have a local guide accompanying them. Thus, legally, guide assistance is mandatory for climbing these peaks.

6. What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for the Khumbu Three Peak expedition?

Proper acclimatization is crucial for high-altitude climbing trips and expeditions. Our team, with its years of climbing-guiding experience and a deep understanding of scientific literature, knows that the body needs sufficient time to adjust to the environment after reaching a certain elevation.

On the Khumbu Three Peak climbing trip, we prioritize acclimatization through our carefully designed itinerary, which includes climbing the Mera Peak first wich is a non-technical high-altitude trekking peak. This approach allows your body to adapt to altitudes above 6400M and provides you with opportunities to experience alpine camping, admire the stunning Himalayan scenery, and build up strength for your summit attempt.

Once you have successfully summited one Mera Peak, your body will have already adapted and be prepared for the challenges of the remaining 6000M peaks on the itinerary.

7. What training is required to climb the Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Can you suggest to me a training plan?

The Khumbu Three Peak itinerary, although classified as a beginner to intermediate-level climb, should not be underestimated. The grading of mountains is based on both technical and physical demands. This expedition demands climbers to be in a very good physically and mentally. To ensure optimal preparation for the climb, it's recommended that climbers focus on endurance and strength training. This can include aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (15km to 20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 to 2 hours), and hiking with an added weight of 10 to 15 kgs. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

Download 6000M+ peak training template

Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tool. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness.

8. How hard is Khumbu Three Peak Expedition climb?

The Mera Peak is rated as 1B, while Island Peak and Lobuche East Peak are rated as 2B. (Alpine grading link)

The summit climb is considered the most challenging and physically demanding part of the trip. At high altitudes, proper breathing can be a struggle, but with proper acclimatization, hydration, and nutrition, the body can adjust and recover. Once leaving the base camp, climbers will be faced with the true alpine challenge, which includes steep ascents and descents on ice and snow surfaces. Each summit day may last up to 10 or more hours of walking, climbing, and descending. The summit day usually begins early in the morning, with the goal of reaching the summit or as close to it as possible by sunrise.

To successfully complete the Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, a strong endurance and physical stamina is required. All previous training, willpower, mental strength, and a passion for adventure will be put to the test during this grueling, yet rewarding journey.

9. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Khumbu Three Peak expedition (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Khumbu Three Peak climb?

Selecting the appropriate gear is essential for a successful climb. It is recommended to prioritize quality and comfort in your clothing and gear choices. Adequate layering is crucial, especially during nighttime when temperatures can drop below -10/-15°C. For our recommended clothing and gear, please consult our equipment blog.

For our Namas Adventure clients, we offer gear rental services that feature top-quality, well-maintained equipment from Kailas. Hiring gear from other local sources in Nepal is not recommended as we have found their equipment to be of subpar quality.

Investing in high-quality gear such as boots (trekking and mountaineering) is highly encouraged. With advancements in technology, climbing shoes have improved, and we suggest double-layered options such as La Sport G2Sm or Scarpa Phantom. Spending on good quality gear is a wise investment, as it can greatly impact the success and safety of your climb.

10. What types of foods are available during Khumbu Three Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

Mineral water is readily available for purchase at most tea houses. During alpine camping, we will boil ice to produce drinking water that will be collected by our kitchen team. It's recommended that clients drink 4 to 6 liters of water daily to maintain proper hydration and acclimatization. We suggest taking hydration tablets or using a filtration bottle to ensure clean and safe drinking water.

Meals are typically prepared at the tea houses, and during climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa team. You can expect delicious food, but remember to eat enough, as at high altitudes the body may naturally resist food. Packed-dried meals are also available for those who prefer an alternative to the hot food being prepared in the tents.

It's important to avoid smoking and alcohol consumption during the climb. While you may observe our guiding leaders smoking or drinking, they are professionals who have adapted to high-altitude environments, unlike climbers who are there for adventure holidays.

11. What trip insurance will I need for this Khumbu Three Peak expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

Helicopters are used for for any emergency evacuation in Nepal.

Having adequate insurance coverage is critical when embarking on a climbing expedition. Unexpected events, such as illness or altitude sickness, can occur at any time. For this reason, we strongly recommend purchasing insurance from one of our recommended providers (link).

In the event of an emergency, helicopter evacuation may be necessary. This is especially true in the Everest region where air transport is the only feasible option. Our guides will evaluate the situation and use their expertise to support and motivate you, but if a serious issue arises, helicopter evacuation will be initiated.

To initiate the evacuation process, we will contact the insurance company's emergency hotline for approval. The cost of the evacuation will need to be covered upfront but can be reimbursed upon returning home with the proper documentation, such as helicopter evacuation receipts and a doctor's certification letter.

Please note that there was a significant helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, and insurance companies are now taking extra precautions to prevent similar incidents from happening. Our guides and staff in Kathmandu will also provide a briefing on the process for emergency evacuation and the necessary steps for successful reimbursement.

12. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Khumbu Three Peak Expedition?

Upon completion of your Khumbu Three Peak expedition, if you are looking to tackle even greater heights, we can recommend other peaks in the 7000M+ to 8000M+ range for you to strive for.

Baruntse Peak Expedition 7129M,

Himlung Himal Expedition 7126M

himlung himal expedition nepal — Himlung Himal Summit. Pic by - Elisa Rotterud. (Autumn departures)

Ama Dablam Expedition 6810M

Manaslu Expedition 8163M.

Conclusion

The Khumbu Three Peak expedition is an incredible and once-in-a-lifetime experience. Like all mountain climbing trips, this journey is well worth the effort. We hope that the information provided will assist you in properly preparing for your adventure. If you're seeking an outstanding climbing trip and want to have a fantastic time in Nepal, we would be thrilled to have you join us. Our professional and fun-loving guides, with 5-10+ years of experience leading peak climbing trips, will ensure that you receive quality services and have a great time. Our ultimate goal is to provide the best adventure experience in the world while prioritizing your safety and success on the summit.

Do you plan to climb and summit the amazing Three Peaks in the Khumbu region? If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Climb - Khumbu Three Peak link

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Everything you need to know about Mera Peak 6476M climb - Namas Adventure

December 20, 2020

Everything you need to know about Mera Peak 6476M climb

Mera Peak is one of the best climbing peaks suitable for all beginner/novice climbers. Even if you are an experienced climber who wants to enjoy a decent climbing holiday, then Mera peak still is a good choice. Located in Makalu Barun Valley, this peak offers one of the most perfect remote adventure holiday experiences. Trekking through the remote villages, rugged trail paths up and down the hills, through forest trails and of course beautiful mountains all around.

But before you embark on one of the most amazing adventures, we have listed 11 useful informations that will help you prepare for your Mera peak climbing expedition.

1. When is the best time to climb Mera Peak?

Mera Peak is best suited to climb during two climbing seasons. Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September - November). During both the season there aren’t as many climbers as other peaks such as Island Peak. So climbers can expect a low-medium number of climbers.

2. Is it possible to shorten Mera Peak climb?

Mera peak climbing can definitely be shortened but this comes at an additional cost. At Namas adventure, we do provide these services for private client groups ( 2+ members). The shortest Itinerary we can make it up to is 10 days Itinerary. Extra charges apply of an additional $4000 - $4500 applies since we will have to charter helicopter services. Please contact our team for other flexible options.

3. How much does it cost to climb Mera Peak? What does the cost include?

With Namas Adventure, Mera Peak costs $3650/£2850/€3300 per person. We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead.

List of what’s included in your booking.

NMA Certified Sherpa Mountain guide
$300 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters.
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:2 Sherpa Guide: Client ratio
Cook and helping team at Base Camp and High Camp
35Kgs per person
Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
1 Pot of hot water every night
Hydration tablet, frozen foods at BC and high camps
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters
Arrival pick up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

4. Are guides necessary for Mera Peak?

To issue a permit for Mera Peak climb, you will have to go through a registered local company, for this purpose guides are hired. For beginner to intermediate climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The usual climbing route does have a crevasse and new hazards may appear every climbing season. Experienced climbers/guides who want to venture into new routes will still have to be assigned a local guide even if they don’t prefer them climbing with them. So, yes legally speaking guide assistance is required.

5. What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for Mera Peak climb?

Mera la Base Camp 5415M

Mera High Camp 5800M

On high altitude climbing trips like Mera Peak climbing expedition, it’s imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. With years of climbing -guiding experiences and well-known scientific literature, we know that our bodies need an adequate acclimatization period to adapt to the environment after gaining a certain elevation. With that knowledge and experience, our team has built up the following Mera Peak Itinerary.

On Mera Peak climbing trip, we make sure your itinerary has both Mera Peak base camp and high camp. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M+. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you, and had gain enough strength to make your summit climb.

6. What training required to climb Mera Peak? Can you suggest me a training plan?

Mera Peak is by no means an easy climb even though we grade it as a beginner’s climb. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, we highly recommend climbers to focus on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

download 6000M+ Peaks training plan

7. How hard is Mera Peak climb?

Mera peak is graded at 1B. (Alpine grading link).

If you are physically fit, then the final 2 days of your climb are the most difficult sections. Breathing is always a challenge at high altitudes but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time, staying well hydrated, eating properly, your body should recover and adapt to the altitude. Once you depart from Mera Base camp the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. You will be walking for 4-6 hours to reach high camp. Summit day climb starts early (3 or 4 am) with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit by sunrise. This will be the most challenging and rewarding part of the climb. You can expect to hike around 10+ hours on this day as you will have to summit and then descend back to Khare village. All your previous physical training, your will, mental strength, and your grit for real adventure will take you through this final day and to the Summit.

8. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mera Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mera Peak climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will highly depend on your clothes to keep you warm, especially during nighttime when temperatures can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gears.

Renting your gears in Nepal? We provide gear rentals exclusively for Namas Adventure clients during our climbs. All the gears are in the best condition, clean, and highest quality. Kailas equipment provides all-out mountaineering gears. (Namas Equipment hire link)

Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Mera Peak

9. What types of foods are available during Mera Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

10. What trip insurance will I need for Mera Peak climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Mera Peak climb? Can I combine other 6000M+ peaks with Mera Peak climb?

If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000M peaks along with Mera peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.

Mera Peak and Island Peak climbing

Island Peak is another 6100+ M peak that includes some technical climbing sections compared to Mera peak. To reach Island peak after Mera Peak climbers will have to climb via Amphu Laptsa Pass 5845M and then descend to Imja valley. Island peak is also known as Imja Tse peak (Local name).

Three Peak Expedition (Mera, Island and Lobuche)

This expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and a challenging feat on climbing on Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189M), Lobuche East (6119M).

Mera Peak 6476M

Island Peak 6189M

Lobuche East Peak 6119M

Once you have completed your Mera Peak climb and when you feel like you want to take on higher peaks we can suggest other 7000M+ - 8000M+ peaks that you can aim for. Baruntse Peak Expedition 7129M, Himlung Himal Expedition 7126M or Manaslu Expedition 8163M.

Mera Peak is one of the most exhilarating adventure of a lifetime. Like every other mountain climbing trip this is a worthwhile adventure. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Mera Peak climbing expedition. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Mera Peak climbing trip. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Climb - Mera Peak link

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Top 5 peaks for beginner/novice climbers in Nepal, Himalayas - Namas Adventure

December 13, 2020

Top 5 peaks for beginner/novice climbers in Nepal, Himalayas

Mountain climbing is one of the most amazing adventure sports. People climb mountains because of many reasons. The adventure thrill-seekers would like to challenge themselves, some climb for the excitement, but for others, the desire to reach the top of the peaks in Nepal has been growing over years. The journey through valleys, mountain ranges, and highlands is a sight to behold as it makes you realize why people spend sleepless nights and challenge themselves to the achievement of a mountain summit. Beyond the breathtaking views, there are many reasons to get motivated to climb mountains. Mountain climbing also provides an opportunity for cultural exchanges and a chance to see how people from rural areas live. Overall, mountain climbing is a fulfilling experience where you can develop friendships, gain new skills, and open up your mind to new possibilities.

If you are one of those curious challenge-seeking adventure lovers, then it’s only natural for you to question, is mountain climbing safe? I do not have any previous mountain climbing experience, can I climb and summit particular mountains? You may have trekked to high altitude places like Everest base camp, Annapurna region, or hiked around the world and you naturally want to explore higher ground? You may want to summit Everest one day or even all the highest peaks around the world but do not know where to start? Or you finally have the time and motivation to at least give mountain climbing a try or there may be thousand other inspirations.

On this blog, we want to help you by suggesting the best 5 peaks suitable for beginner/novice level or even intermediate level climbers. We promise you, there’s no shortage of awe-inspiring moments, adventure thrill and challenges in any of the suggested peaks below. The summit days will be tough but that’s the beauty of peak climbing. After-all “The best view only comes after the hardest climb”

1. Mera Peak 6476M

Overview:

Altitude: 6,476M / 21,246FT
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice
Type: Non-technical/High altitude trekking style climb
Location: Makalu Barun National Park
When to climb: March-May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: F / 2-3 (Alpine/fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea house and 1-2 high camps above 5000M

What makes Mera Peak suitable for all beginner-level climbers is its non-technical climbing style. What do we mean by that? Simply put the climb does not need fixed-line ropes, ice-axes, ladders, or other alpine techniques to climb to the summit. It is a good old fashion uphill steep walk with your mountaineering boots and crampons on. You may need a little practice walking with your crampons on but once those boots are on you will soon get the hang of it. From Mera base camp to the summit you will be walking on ice and snowy surfaces. This will be the most challenging part of your entire itinerary. Mera Base camp is not included in many other operators’ itineraries but we believe it is the best approach when attempting to climb Mera Peak. This will give our climbers an extra day to rest/acclimatize at 5400M altitude. There is no point in rushing into the mountains, your body not being acclimatized properly, and having to abort your final summit push.

Mera high camp 6100M, is another highlight of this expedition. The camp is set up just in the shadow of what seems like a half-scrapped-off part of a mountain. Both Mera base and high camp expose you to alpine-style camping. Totally secluded just you, fellow climbers, and the alpine environment. (lots of snow and mountains around).

Once you start your climb from the high camp, the view of the surrounding mountain gets better and better and endless beauty. From the Summit of Mera Peak, you will have the most widest and beautiful views of the Himalayas because of its geographic positioning in the region. 8000M + peaks such as Mt. Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho-Oyu and Kanchenjunga are visible. Other iconic peaks like Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Chamlang are also seen in the distance. Like every other mountaineering adventure, the entire climb is physically and mentally challenging. But once you are at the summit it is well worth it.

Mera Peak 7476M

2. Island Peak 6189M

Ridge climb to Summit of Island Peak 6189M

Overview:

Altitude: 6,189 M / 20,305 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-technical climb/Jummar
Location: Everest Khumbu Region/Imja Valley
When to climb: March-May or September - November
Total no of days: 20 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine /Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea Houses and Alpine camping at Island Peak BC and high camp

Island Peak 6189M, is one of the most popular peaks to climb in Nepal. Island peak climb shares an itinerary with Everest base camp and is included in the trip itinerary. Although this peak is slightly smaller than Mera Peak, the final Summit push is the final crux, an almost 90-degree vertical climb.

Island Peak, is graded as a semi-technical climb, by this we mean climbers will need to use fixed-line ropes to climb up the peak and abseil/rappel down when descending down the peak. Summit day is the hardest, as it can be very physically and mentally challenging for beginner-level climbers. There are wide crevasses along the route, so climbers will also have to use steel ladders (which will already be set up) from base camp to high camp/crampon point. This feature of the climb makes it one of the best climbing experiences to learn basics mountaineering skills and also gives climbers an understanding of the level of fitness needed when climbing bigger mountains. The summit ridge is very exposed and not many climbers can fit at a single time. Having stated that, once you are at the summit, you will be over-filled with the joy of accomplishment and the Himalayan views all around will make it a worthwhile accomplishment.

Island peak 6189M

3. Chulu West Peak 6419M

Setting eyes on Chulu West Peak 6419M in far distant.

Overview:

Altitude: 6,419M / 21,059 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-Technical/Jummar
Location: Annapurna region, Manang District
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea houses and Alpine camping to Chulu West BC and high camp

Chulu West 6419M Peak, is another 6000M+ climbing peak in the north-midwestern part of Nepal. The peak is located in the beautiful region of the Annapurna region. Trekking through one of the world’s most beautiful trekking routes, climbers set apart to Chulu base camp from Ledar village to embark on their peak climbing adventure. The peak resides on the backdrop of the great Annapurna Massif range, Himlung Himal on the northeast and further is the great Manaslu peak.

Chulu West Peak climb is a semi-technical climbing peak, making it suitable for beginner and intermediate experience level climbers. With fewer technical sections, climbers will mostly depend on their endurance and physical strength while climbing. The climb is mostly on ice and snow terrain all the way to the summit. Once on the summit, climbers are given a glimpse of the great Annapurna Massif ranges and other surrounding peaks of Mid-western Nepal. Climbing peaks in the Annapurna region can be a different experience compared to the Everest region. If you want to go even remotely and enjoy one of the world’s beautiful trails, climbing a peak in the Annapurna region is an experience on its own. Chulu West Peak is the right option to go for climbers seeking fewer crowd options.

Chulu West 6419M

4. Lobuche East 6119M Peak

Overview:

Altitude: 6,119M / 20,072 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice to Intermediate
Type: Semi-technical/Jummar
Location: Everest Khumbu Region
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 20 Days
Difficulty grading: PD/3 (Alpine/fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Tea houses and Alpine camping at BC and high camp

Lobuche East 6119M Peak, is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. This peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams, as one of the training peaks before heading for Everest Expedition. The base camp is located just a day away from Everest base camp.

Lobuche East Peak is graded 2B, the same as Island Peak. Climbers will have to use assisted fixed-line ropes, descend using abseiling techniques, and should be comfortable on exposed terrain. The climb is mostly on snow, ice, and rock surfaces. The summit is narrow, exposed and Everest is visible from the summit, unlike Island Peak summit. The climb is a 60-70 degrees climb and can be somewhat challenging for beginner/novice level climbers. This can also be a perfect mountain to climb whatever your climbing goals.

Lobuche East 6119M

5. Pisang Peak

Overview:

Altitude: 6,100M / 20,013 ft
Climbers experience level: Beginners/Novice
Type: Semi-technical
Location: Annapurna region, Manang District
When to climb: April - May or September - November
Total no of days: 18 Days
Difficulty grading: F\2-3 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Alpine camping to Chulu West BC

Pisang Peak sits in the Manang district, Nepal. The peak is tucked just between Annapurna I and Manaslu. This is another 6000M+ Peak in the Annapurna region suitable for beginner/novice level climbers. This peak also falls in the Annapurna circuit trail and the climb starts after the beautiful Pisang village.

Pisang Peak is graded at 1B climb but has some technical climbing feature during the summit climb. Fixed line ropes have to be used when climbing. Climbers will have to navigate through rocky, ice, and snowy surfaces. Climbers will need to have a good fitness level when climbing as other peak climbing in Nepal.

Climb - Pisang Peak (Email us for private climbing inquiry)

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Mountaineering Boots for Mera Peak climbing - Namas Adventure

March 26, 2020

Mountaineering Boots for Mera Peak climbing

Investing in the right boots is a must for any high altitude mountaineering activities. We highly suggest all climbers to not cut corners while purchasing these essential life-saving equipment. Comfort, support while carrying heavy loads, grip while climbing and scrambling on ice/rock, crampon compatible, warmth, sturdiness and should give you the confidence to walk comfortably on horizontal slopes. We recommend you go to your nearest store to try it on and give it a feel on how you feel when trying on these boots. In the end, you should feel comfortable with those boots. We have listed three of our favorite boots which are suitable for Mera Peak climbing.

La Sportiva G2SM

La Sportiva G2SM is one of the most versatile mountaineering boots performing extremely well at 6000M - 7000M altitude. The boot with it’s double-layered system can withstand up to - 30C keeping the feet warm during climbing days. The boots have a sturdy and quality feel and have BOA lace system for ease of tying the boots. This is especially helpful when tightening boots in extreme cold condition. Simply rotate the wheel to tighten the grip and plug off to loosen the boot. It’s only downfall maybe, the BOA system will be hard to replace or fix if for any reason it gets damaged, unlike traditional lacing system. (Boot Review link)

Scarpa Phantom 6000

Lightweight and more streamlined double boot designed boot, Scarpa 6000 is built for any 6000M - 7000M peak expedition. Providing incredible warmth and grip for any high climbing expedition. For a detailed review of the boot, you can check out the blog here by climbing gear review. (Click here)

GTX Mountaineering Boots 5000m

With classic style Kailas GTX performs well in the rugged conditions. Lightweight, insulated (able to withstand up to -30C, all crampons compatible, these boots are suitable for 5000M+ to 65000M mountaineering activities.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure team.

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Mountaineering Boots for Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition - Namas Adventure

February 27, 2020

Mountaineering Boots for Baruntse Peak Expedition

Choosing the right footwear is critical to climb and summit higher peaks. Baruntse Peak standing tall at 7000M + peak demands climbers to wear appropriate mountaineering boots, which must fill in numerous roles. Comfort, support while carrying heavy loads, grip while climbing and scrambling on ice / rock, crampon compatible, warmth, sturdiness and should give you the confidence to walk comfortably on horizontal slopes. We have listed boots from several brands which is suitable for your Baruntse Peak expedition.

La Sportiva G2SM

La Sportiva G2SM is one of the most versatile mountaineering boots performing extremely well at 6000M - 7000M altitude. The boot with it’s double layered system can with stand up to - 30C keeping the feet warm during climbing days. The boots has a sturdy and quality feel and has BOA lace system for ease of tying the boots. This is especially helpful when tightening boots in extreme cold condition. Simply rotate the wheel to tighten the grip and plug off to loosen the boot. It’s only downfall maybe, the BOA system will be hard to replace or fix if for any reason it gets damaged unlike traditional lacing system. (Boot Review link)

La Sportiva Baruntse

The name itself suggest this boot particularly for Baruntse and any other 6000M-7000M peak expeditions. A sturdy built mountaineering boots specifically designed for high altitude mountaineering expedition. It is a double layered boot highly insulated boot with with tradition lacing style system. (Boot review)

Scarpa Pthanom 6000

Light weight and more streamlined double boot designed boot, Scarpa 6000 is build for any 6000M - 7000M peak expedition. Providing incredible warmth and grip for any high climbing expedition. For a detailed review of the boot, you can check out the blog here by climbing gear review. (Click here)

8000M Boots

For any climbers looking ahead for bigger expedition in near future, investing right away in a 8000M expedition can be a great idea, saving any extra expenses. Climbers normally use 8000M peak boots even during 6000M + expeditions. (Kailas Everest, La Sportiva Olympus Mons cube, Scarpa Phantom 8000)

Investing in a right gear is a must and a necessity when taking upon such great expeditions. We always advise our climbers to try them on when buying one and see which you feel most comfortable with, at the end it is your climb. If you want to take upon 7000M + peaks like Baruntse with Mera Peak expedition or Himlung Himal expedition , Namas team is here to be at your service and help you summit these amazing peaks while having a great time.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure team.

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Everything you need to know about Island Peak climbing - Namas Adventure

January 22, 2020

Everything you need to know about

Island Peak 6189M climb

ISLAND PEAK EXPEDITION

Planning on climbing Island Peak 6189M?

Here is everything you need to know about climbing this most popular 6000M+ peak in Nepal. Since 2016 we have been leading climbing groups to Island Peak and with our suggestions, our clients have been successfully able to enjoy while achieving their summit success.

1) When is the best time to climb Island Peak?

For most climbers, Island Peak is best suited to climb during Spring (March-May) or Autumn (Mid-September - October) on any given year. The weather during these times in the Himalayan region and most of the places in Nepal remains stable, which is perfect for adventure activities. Spring season is chosen for most of the 8000+M expeditions in the Everest region, so you can expect trekkers’ crowd on the trails. However, once you reach your Island peak camping site, you can see the numbers dropping down drastically as the majority of the people on the trails are there for trekking.

Winter climbing is still possible, but we recommend this for individuals with a vast amount of mountaineering experiences, almost at the pro athletes’ level. Temperature is very low and weather conditions are harsh. It can be down to -25/-30 C and winds can pick up to 60mph+.

2) Are guides necessary for Island Peak?

Without the help of Sherpa guiding leaders, we do not recommend climbing in the Himalayas, unless you are a mountain guide yourself. You will have to walk through support ladders with crampons on while crossing the crevasse openings. The final climb to the summit is a 90-degree vertical climb where you will have to use ascenders to climb all the way up to the summit. Climbing a peak is not just about reaching the summit. You also need to consider the effort on descending back safely which can be equally exhausting as this requires your full focus as well. You will have to use atc or figure 8 gears to descend below from the peak.

We do collect mandatory pre-tour tips, which include summit bonus, tips to all the staff members involved in your climbing, porters, assistant guides, airport pickup/drop off drivers, and hotel helpers/securities. We fairly distribute these tips based on the type and amount of work each member has performed. Additionally, if our guests want to make extra personal tips, then they are more than welcome to do so.

3) What is the best acclimatisation itinerary for Island Peak climb?

When we want to commit to climbing adventure at a high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences. What we have found in general is that our bodies need an adequate acclimatization period to adapt to the environment after gaining a certain elevation.

On Island Peak climbing particularly, we highly suggest taking 2 days of acclimatization at Namche Bazar and an additional 2 Days stop at Dingboche. We then make sure your itinerary has both Island Peak base camp and Island Peak high camp afterward. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000M. This way you can experience alpine camping, enjoy the Himalayas all around you, and had gained enough strength to make your final climb.

4) What training is required to climb Island Peak? Can you suggest me a training plan?

Island Peak is by no means an easy climb although we grade it as a beginner’s climb. Mountains are graded based on its technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse. We highly recommend focusing on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-15km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 10-15kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

Download Island Peak training Plan

Courses like beginner mountaineering classes are also a helpful tools. You will learn technical skills like climbing with a rope on 5/6 anchor points using ascenders, how to walk with crampons on ice, snow, and rock, and to be efficient with abseiling and overall gear safety checks awareness. Beginner Ice climbing alone is another course that will help you with all the required skills.

5) How hard is Island Peak climb?

Island peak is graded at 2B in difficulty. (Alpine grading link).

If you are physically fit, then the final 2 days of your climb are the most difficult sections. Breathing is hard but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude. When you finally come across the vertical wall, this will be your final challenge. On top of that, you will be walking for 4-5 hours by the time you reach at this point. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body to face those challenges.

6) What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Island Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Island Peak climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -10/-15. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)

Boots (trekking and mountaineering) for Island Peak

7) What types of foods are available during Island Peak climb? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended?

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses and during your climbing days, kitchen tents are set up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food but remember to eat enough. In the high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couples of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.

8. How long do climbers hike or climb every day?

On usual trekking days, you will be walking for 5 - 6 hours a day covering 10km - 14 km. But on the summit day, your climb could last up to 8 - 9 hours since it is advised to go as slow as possible, using the right amount of energy for the long duration and inhaling as much air as possible.

9. Everest base camp tips

Island Peak itinerary falls right in the middle of the Everest base camp trek. That’s why we have chosen to have it on our itinerary so that climbers can visit this iconic Everest base camp and see the great Khumbu icefall, the doorway to Everest climbing. See more on our blogs about Everest base camp tips.

10. What trip insurance will I need for Island Peak climb? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

11. Which other high-altitude peak climbing can I aim for after Island Peak climb? Can I combine other 6000M+ peaks with Island Peak climb?

If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000 M peaks along with Island peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.

Mera Peak 6476M with Island Peak

This itinerary takes you through the highest trekking Peak Mera 6476 M and then down to cross Amphu Lapsta pass. The route takes you down towards Barun valley where Baruntse Peak 7129 M peaks stand tall and towards Mera Peak, the highest trekking Peak in Nepal.

Island Peak with Lobuche Peak climbing

Lobuche Peak is another 6100+ M peak that is often used by Everest summit climbers as acclimatization peaks. The peak is just two camps away from Island Peak and is a great combination should you want to take upon two peaks at once.

Three Peak Expedition (Mera, Island, and Lobuche)

If you want to aim higher after Island Peak towards 7000M+ peaks then Baruntse 7129 M, Himlung Himal 7126 M are some of the peaks climbing we would recommend. Just climbing Island peak won’t be enough, we suggest you climb more different technical and non-technical peaks in Europe around the alps if possible. Amadablam Expedition is another super technical and tough mountain we would like to recommend but you will have to be extremely great with your mixed climbing skills and be fit both mentally and physically.

If you are planning to climb Island Peak in any given year, we run climbing trips every year during Spring and Autumn.

Please click the link to be directed to Island Peak Expedition page.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Namas Adventure team

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5 Things to know about Mera Peak climb - Namas Adventure

January 15, 2020

5 things to know about Mera Peak climbing

Mera Peak link

When is the best time to trek/climb Mera Peak?

March-May ( Spring ) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to trek/climb Mera Peak.

Is Mera Peak suitable for beginner climbers and what kind of fitness do I need?

Yes, Mera Peak is a non-technical high-altitude trekking peak. To reach summit 6476M you do not need any special climbing skills with ropes, gears, and use of an ice axe. Mera Peak is a very popular destination for clients with little or no mountaineering experience. The mountain has fewer to non-technical challenges, there are 3-4 small opening crevasses during the climb but apart from that, the climb is straightforward. All climbers are recommended to partake in preparative fitness and altitude training before attempting an ascent. You should be able to carry 5-8 kgs of your bag pack, walk up and downhill every day for 15/16 days and be able to push yourself during the summit climb.

Physically for beginners, Mera Peak can be demanding. We highly suggest you train yourself well over 6 - 4 months before your trip. You will need good endurance and body strength. Aerobic exercises mixing with overall body strength-building routines should help you prepare physically for your trip.

Can I see Mt. Everest from Mera Peak?

From the summit, five 8,000m peaks are visible: Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga, as well as many other Himalayan peaks. The standard route from the north involves high-altitude glacier walking. The west and south faces of the peak offer more difficult technical routes.

How hard is it to climb to the summit of Mera Peak?

Mera Peak is classed as 1B alpine grade. When it comes to an expedition the more fitter and stronger you are, the better your chances of successfully climbing to the summit and most of all enjoying the expedition. Summiting Mera Peak mostly depends on the weather condition and your fitness level. The climb normally starts around 3/4 am in the morning and it is about 3-4 hours climb to the summit. For any climbers it is a technically straightforward ascent, the main hurdle being proper acclimatization to the high altitude.

Which Mountain can I aim for after Mera Peak that’s above 6500M?

If you have got time and you are feeling extra adventurous then you can either Mix Mera Peak with Island Peak, which takes you through a beautiful and challenging Amphu Lapsta pass. On the way, you will also come across Baruntse 7129M and Makalu 8481M. Or you can simply take on our challenge of three 6000M+ Peak expeditions. (Mera, Island and Lobuche East) Peaks (Click for expedition Link)

Our main suggestion is to take it one step at a time. The lure of Everest is there but taking small steps, gaining the right experience, and understanding your physiology is very crucial for climbing higher mountains. Amadablam 6810M, Baruntse Peak 7129M, Manaslu 8163M, Tilicho Peak 7134M are some of the 7000M+ - 8000M+ Peak expedition we operate and organize at Namas adventure.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

2 Comments

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Mera Peak or Island Peak - Namas Adventure

January 4, 2020

Mera Peak or Island Peak

Mera Peak or Island Peak? Which 6000M peak to plan when you first want to start climbing a peak in Nepal. Which is the peak best suited for my abilities or which peak should I climb? To make your decision easier for you, we have laid out the details of each peak, which will help you decide with your 6000M peak climbing. The other option will be to combine both magnificent Mera and Island Peak climb in your itinerary.

Mera Peak 6476 M

Mera peak 6476M

Mera Peak 6476M, highest 6000M trekking Peak in Nepal
Non-technical climb up to 6476M. No use of ropes, ice-axe, ascender, or ladders
Beginners/novice suitable peak
Base camp and high camp strategy
Located in the Makalu Barun region of Nepal
Remote and less popular compared to Island Peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
360 Panoramic view of Nepal Himalayan range. Everest, Cho-Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, and many other peaks are visible from Summit and descend to high camp.

Mera Peak is considered the highest trekking peak in Nepal. The trails break off from Lukla going in a different direction to the Makalu Barun region, which completely avoids the normal Everest trek trail usually packed by Everest base camp trekkers and climbers. So, you can expect less traffic from trekkers on Mera Peak trails. With the mountain itself is a non-technical climb, Mera peak can be a perfect mountain climbing experience for those climbers not wanting to use ropes or ascender/descender gears to climb to the summit. Simply rely on the guidance of your guide and your strength to climb the peak. Physically it can be demanding, as on your summit day you will have to ascend for 4-6 hours depending on your speed of climbing uphill. The view from the summit is awe-inspiring, as you will be able to witness a 360-degree view of the great Himalayas range. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Kanchanjhunga, and other peaks are clearly visible right in front of you during clear weather.

Island Peak 6189M

The most famous 6000M climbing peak in Nepal
Technical climb with summit approach 90 degrees ascend. Use of rope lines, ascender, figure 8 to descend, and ladders to cross the crevasse gaps.
Beginners/novice technical climbing
Base camp and high camp climbing strategy
Located in Everest trail route, in Imja valley
Remote and most popular climbing and summited 6000M peak
March-May (Spring) and September - November (Autumn) is the best time to climb this peak
Narrow summit ridge and is also a perfect peak to learn technical climbing approach

Island peak shares the same trail as the Everest base camp route up to Dingboche. Island peak is the most popular and summited 6000M in the Khumbu region. Island peak is suitable for first-time beginner climbers and is a perfect mountain for climbers who wants to experience and learn technical climbing in the mountains. You will be using the steel ladders (like they use in Everest) to cross the crevasse openings and use ascenders on fixed ropes to climb onto the final steep section, a 90-degree vertical wall. When climbing you will be using ascender on the fixed ropes to climb all the way to the summit. Training will be given prior to your climbing by our Sherpa guiding team on all our climbing expeditions. Like any expedition, this peak is physically demanding and on your summit day from high camp, you will be climbing for 6 - 8 hours, depending on your speed of climbing.

Or, simply you can make it extra challenging by combing both Mera Peak and Island Peak itinerary. The beauty of this itinerary is crossing the Amphu Laptsa pass which is challenging and awe-inspiring.

Arrival

Day 1 Kathmandu ( Equipment check, induction with Expedition leader )

Day 2 Lukla / Monjo

Day 3 Monjo / Namche Bazaar

Day 4 Acclimatisation day

Day 5 Namche Bazaar / Tengboche

Day 6 Tengboche / Dingboche

Day 7 Acclimatisation

Day 8 Dingboche / Chukung

Day 9 Chukung / Island Peak base camp

Day 10 IPBC / Island peak high camp

Day 11 Ascend to Island peak summit / Chukung

Day 12 Chukung / Lobuche East Base Camp

Day 13 Lobuche High camp 5600M (5 to 6 hours)

Day 14 Summit day 6118M / High camp or Lobuche village

(1 Day Contingency Summit day, in case of bad weather to summit Lobuche east )

Day 15 Gorakshep / Everest Base Camp

Day 16 Dzongla

Day 17 Gokyo Via Cho-la-pass

Day 18 Gokyo ri trek

Day 19 Macahharmo

Day 20 Macahharmo to Doles

Day 21 Dole to Namche Bazaar

Day 22 To Lukla

Day 23 Kathmandu

Day 24 Departure

Or Another option would be Island Peak and Lobuche East peak.

Three Peak challenge (Mera, Island, and Lobuche East Peak)

Download Lobuche East & Island Peak pdf

We have set departures for all three peaks every year. To book your Spring or Autumn climb please email our team or head to the relevant page on our website for detailed pieces of information.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

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Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition strategy - Namas Adventure

September 11, 2019

Baruntse Peak 7129M Expedition strategy

BARUNTSE EXPEDITION

Baruntse Peak standing at 7129 M mountain is situated in Nepal between Mount Everest and Makalu in the Barun-Makalu National Park. Mount Baruntse is a substantial and symmetrical snow peak, has four ridges and four summits. It is bounded on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho, to the north-west by the Imja glacier and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. The three main ridges of Baruntse are situated between these glaciers and form an upturned ‘Y’running from Cho Polu (6695m) in the north past the Humni La, on to the north summit where it divides. Other well -known mountains in this area are Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang, Everest, and the trekking-peak Mera Peak.
Bruntse was first climbed on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd, Geoff Harrow of the Hilary New Zealand Expedition. They have climbed the mountain by the southeast Ridge. Since then many climbers have used this route and succeeded. This mountain has also been becoming coveted day by day like the other Pumori, Ama Dablam as well as Everest too.

Expedition Route

The south-east Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters to be climbed on the way to the top. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced, but there is little evidence of avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain. The most successful ascents have been made in the spring when snow conditions have been good and the mountain has been found to be objectively safe at this time. There is still a debate on which season it is best to climb Baruntse as in the past few years 2013 - 2018 more summits have been done during the Autumn season. The steeper sections of the climb are safeguarded by fixed rope, as are the obvious cornices that need to be traversed between the camps on the mountain.

Expedition Strategy

Acclimatizing at Mera Peak 6476 M

Baruntse Base Camp (5640 M)

After summiting Mera Peak, the team heads towards Baruntse Base Camp 5460M. 500m descent down into the Honku valley climbers is assured with rich oxygen, warm weather, and sunny spell making good conditions for a good night's sleep. The natural environment around is utterly desolate and utterly magnificent in its desolation.

Baruntse base camp is at 5460M, a few kilometers further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, it is easy to cross East Col to West col and reaching Camp 1 (6,146 M) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier. This places the expedition team immediately below the South-East Ridge of the mountain and provides a suitable spot for Camp 2 or Advanced Camp 2 (AC2). This plateau could be reached directly up the Lower Barun Glacier but this approach is not recommended as an icefall at the toe of the glacier has made the route impassable in previous years. So a different strategy where one more camp higher on the mountain, at about 6,500 M is placed, from where the summit is attempted.

The team will practice ascending fixed ropes and rappelling on steep, icy terrain. Hike glacier just outside of camp and spend a few sessions perfecting skills on overhanging ice. Meanwhile, the Sherpa team will be fixing ropes high in the mountain for the team. Additionally acclimatization hike to the base of the fixed lines below camp 1. The hike features dirt trails, scramble over rocks, and crossing the beautiful glaciers. The day is spent training and preparing for the expedition just below Baruntse peak and then head back to Baruntse base camp.

Puja Day Ceremony ( Rituals ) Base Camp - West Col - Camp 1 (6100 M) Approx 10 hours

Photos by - David

A Puja ceremony, rituals are performed praying and asking permission to the god mountain for safe passage, success, and safety of the team in the morning, which is customary before beginning a climb. Many of the western climbers participating takes part by placing an object to be used in the climb - an ice axe, crampons, boots - on an altar that was made from stones and adorned with Tibetan buddhist prayer flags. The ceremony is concluded with readings and ritual blessings.

Guiding Sherpa leader teams fix the rope on all the main difficulties of the summit ridge. Sherpas set up the safest way through the crevasses, overhangs, and icefalls.

Sirdar Sherpas team carry loads from basecamp at 5400 meters to camp 1 at 6100 meters and then returned to basecamp. The climb mostly consists of a moderate climb with steeper sections at the West col which is the final ascent before reaching Camp 1. Only the last part is more difficult, where the west col consist, 45 degrees 200-meter high ice wall. Beautiful views on the surrounding mountains: Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Makalu, and the Amphu Lambtsa La which all the climbers will have to cross in a few day’s time when returning to Lukla.

Clients are meant to carry their personal loads 8kgs - 12kgs throughout the climb.

Camp 1 - Camp 2 (6,400M) or Advanced camp 2.1 (6,500M) | Time approx: 3 - 4 hours

Camp 2 (6,400M) or advanced Camp 2.1 around 6,500m, in a small col between Baruntse 2 and Baruntse itself. Baruntse 2 is also called Baruntse south-east. The camp lies between the two summits in a saddle-like slope.

Camp 2 - Summit Push - Back to Camp 2 or 1 | Time approx: 10 - 12 hours

Technical Challenges at 6900M ridge

Pic by - Karvaniers

Very sharp ridge at (approx 6900m). The sharp ridge provides excellent ice climbing over several steep ice walls and extremely exposed cornices. Sherpa team fixing the rope will assess the crevasse opening ridge and there is a consideration of adding a ladder at the top if needed. But normally combining the skills of ice climbing on overhanging ice and through the assistance of fixed rope walking on the narrow steep wall ice wall climbers can overcome the final section of the ridge, then a further 60 - 90 min climb to reach the summit. The summit hosts some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu that can be seen anywhere in the Himalayas.

Making it to the summit is 60% job done. Descending is one of the grueling parts of climbing parts of mountain climbing. From there the descendant with all the abseiling skills will demand the climber’s full attention. So, climbers can celebrate their moment at the top. If weather permits and stays are non windy then climbers might be able to enjoy 30 - 60 min of a celebratory moment with the panoramic view Himalayas. But normally our Guiding team will advise the climbers when to descend down. It’s best to celebrate and at the same time refuel and gain some of your energy back to be able to descend back to camp 2 or 1 safely. A lot of the mountain incident happens on the way back while descending.

Amphu Lapcha Pass 5800M

After summiting Baruntse mountain, the journey back still hosts more surprises, and before climbers reach to next civilization at Pangboche. Morene country, over boulders, passed lakes to the foot of the beautiful Amphu Lapcha. Amphu Lapcha hosts zigzag glaciers with base camp at North and south where we have to stop for a camp night. From Amphu Labtsa pass grants us views of Imja Valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island peak, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, just awesome.

Advice to climbers keen on climbing Baruntse Peak

Enthusiast climbers will definitely have to prepare themselves for technical climbing. On the last 250- 300 meters of altitude, the climbing gets rather technical. Route fixing guides/Sherpas have to take a large number of ropes to fix the way. Baruntse is not for novices climbers. Climbers need to have some experience at least. Climbing experiences on both the alps, Andes mountains, and the Himalayas is necessary. Climbers with some experience in mountain climbing it is another great experience to climb Baruntse to further bag and gain a lot of knowledge in mountaineering.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can.

Baruntse expedition

Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Further Source:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baruntse

https://www.summitpost.org/baruntse/153293

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Nutrition for Mountain climbing - Namas Adventure

July 11, 2019

NUTRITION FOR MOUNTAIN CLIMBING

Image- Namas Adventure, Mera Peak summit

Climbing high altitude mountains for both sports and recreational purposes is an immense physical challenge. Altitudes above 4000M to 5000 M are considered high altitudes and 5000M above are considered extreme altitudes. You have to be physically, psychologically, and mentally prepared. Preparing yourself by exercising and practicing techniques, getting the right gears are important parts of mountain climbing. However, to be able to make yourself stronger during training and climbing days getting the right nutrition is very important. Did you know that taking the right diet can improve your effort ability by 20% overall? It is easier said than done but when it comes to mountains and high altitude you might want to dedicate yourself to this regime of the right amount of exercise to make you physically fit and eating well. The right nutrition is another factor in your performance.

“ Did you know that taking the right diet can improve your effort ability by 20% overall”

Research has shown that when climbing high altitude mountains climbers can burn anywhere from 6000 - 10,000 calories per day. Losing weight is very normal and you will have to gain your strength back quickly. Your digestive system won’t work the same way as it does at a lower altitude. Your system will want to reject food as it does not want to put in much effort and forcing yourself to eat is necessary. Carbohydrate (carbs) is your best friend when it comes to nutritional value but also do not forget the proteins and fats. You will have to snack a lot with easy-to-absorb carbs, hydrate often, during your climbing hours, and when you rest during dinner at your camps more carbs and proteins. Fill up that glucose in your body as it stores fats in your body which your body will use when needed or during the hard push.

“60% - 70% of your meal nutrition should be carbs, 20-30% proteins and 5% - 10% fats”

Recommendations

High carbohydrate foods - Rice or whole grain products, bread, pasta, fruits rich in natural sugar ( banana, oranges, blueberries, grapefruit, apple) sweet potatoes, potatoes, milk, Quinoa, kidney beans & chick peaks.

You can also pack dried frozen dried meals that are easily packable, 90% lighter, preserve the natural taste, gives you nutritional value. Easy to prepare, just pour boiling water, stir and wait about 10 minutes, and feast on it. This is highly practical as it makes logistical planning much easier. We recommend (LYO FOODS) they have some great options, especially for mountaineering.

Proteins sources mile & cheese, meats, tofu, eggs, lentils and seeds, and nuts.

Fats source dried meats, butter or ghee, chocolate, olives.

Keeping yourself hydrated throughout is very very important. You will sweat a lot, we recommend you to intake anywhere from 4l- 6l of water every day. Just drinking normal water is not enough. It is necessary to add hydrating tables with electrolytes in your water. Products recommended ( SIS hydration tablets, Nunu Hydration tablets )

Mini brunches when hiking/climbing for 6- 10+ hours is very crucial. Your body quickly burns all the nutrition within 2-3 hours and you will need to often replenish those nutrients. You will need foods that don’t have to be cooked, easily packable, and rich in nutrition. Bananas, chocolate, nuts& seeds, jerky or dried meat, hydration tablets, energy gels, and bars are highly recommended. Every night prepare it in a sealed bag or an area of your backpack where you can store and reach them easily. These superfoods will give you that much-needed energy, thus, you’ll feel active for a longer time.

I hope this article was helpful. It is very important that you pay attention to your diet nutrition especially during your climbing days. Remember to take in a lot of carbs during your trekking/expedition lunch or dinner time. Snack a lot, almost like a mini brunch every 2-3 hours, to give your body a constant flow of energy and stay hydrated (add hydrating tables) every time. I personally have suffered during my climbing days for not eating well or not staying properly hydrated. So I hope you can follow the suggestion and enjoy your climbing. During your trekking/expedition on all our itineraries, meals with these nutritional values are served at the lodges we rest or during camping. Extra food is always helpful. Please ask our team how much you will need to personally pack.

One more thing, do not intake any alcohol, especially during your climbing days. You will see Sherpas or porters who have always been climbing drink but you need to remember that their bodies have always been through this every year in and out. So comparing it won’t help, instead, save it for the last and enjoy your beer after your climbing is finished when you return to base camp or the nearest lodging area.

Also, please carry your waste with you all the time and dump them on your next village or lodging spot. Encourage your team not to litter the mountains as the waste might never be removed from these remote and pristine areas.

Keep exploring, eat well take on that challenge. Mountains are calling. Go live your story.

References -

Written by - Bisesh

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