Climbers Guide: Lobuche East & Island Peak Expedition

Mountain Overview

 

Lobuche East Peak

Elevation: 6119M / 200075FT

Co-ordinates: 27.9595° N, 86.7899° E

Location: Khumbu Region

Parent Mountain: Lobuche

Summits: 1 summit and extension Lobuche West Summit

Country: Nepal

 

Mountain Overview

Island Peak (Imja Tse)

Elevation: 6189M / 20305FT

Co-ordinates: 43.6605° N, 70.1907° W

Location: Imja Valley

Parent Mountain: Lhotse Shar

Summits: 1 main summit

Country: Nepal

About the Mountains

Lobuche East Peak 6119M is one of the most popular 6,000+ m climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is mostly used by Everest summit teams as one of the training peaks before making attempting the summit.  Our team will set up base camp and high camps when summiting this peak. This peak is a semi-technical climb where most of the technical section only falls after high camp to summit.

Island Peak 6189M (Imja tse) is another popular 6,000M+ climbing peak in Nepal. The peak is an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine 2B. The final vertical wall to the summit is the only major challenge when climbing this peak. Some season sees glaciers opening where ladders have to be fixed to cross or climb the glacier to follow the route. But this changes every season.

History

The first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25, 1984.

The team who first climbed Imja Tse or Island peak comprised Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie, and seven other Sherpas.

How to get here?

There are two main routes to get to Lobuche East and Island Peak

  1. Via Mera Peak and Amphu Lhabtsa pass (Three Peak Expedition)

  2. Via Lukla

Are permits required?

Yes, permits are 100% required. Permit costs $250 USD (Spring) and $125 USD (Autumn) Per person.

Climbing Routes

Lobuche East Peak 6119M: South East ridge (PD) grade.

Island Peak 6189M Peak: South West ridge (PD) grade.

Express Itinerary

With the use of helicopters after the summit, the expedition can be shortened up to 20/21 days. Flying from either peaks Base camps to Lukla.

Further extensions

Mera Peak summit 6476M

+ Add Mera Peak (Three Peak Expedition)

Khumbu Three peak expedition program is the holy grail and the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000 foot (6000+ meter) peaks which is one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip to trek through the hidden gems of the Everest region, Gokyo lake, and three high passes, experience the mountain and Sherpa culture, and an amazing feat of climbing Mera Peak (6,476M), Island Peak (6189m), Lobuche East (6119m).

Baruntse 7129M Expedition

Baruntse 7129M

Baruntse Peak is a 7000er mountain peak located just between the ever famous Khumbu region and the raw Makalu region. This peak range forms a giant wall seperating the two region. Crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho to the north-west by the Imja glacier, and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. Baruntse mountain stretch has four ridges and four summits. The three main ridges are situated between the glaciers, the fourth main summit lies to the west near Cho Polu peak. More detailed informations about Baruntse Expedition in the link below

Ama Dablam 6810M Expedition

Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam climb is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.

Other highlights during these expeditions

  • ✅Tenzing Hillary ✈️Lukla Airport 2800M

Land in Lukla 2845M, Tenzing - Hillar airport. Day 3 of your itinerary and where your adventure begins.

  • ✅Namche Bazzar 3375M

Namche Bazaar 3440M. Hub of Everest region and home to Sherpas.

After trekking through lush jungles and flowing rivers on the 5th day of the itinerary climbers will stop by at Namche Bazaar for their acclimatization day. There are lots to explore on your acclimatization day. Climbers will hike up to Everest view Hotel and explore Khumjung village experiencing the lifestyle and culture. Find amazing cafes, bars, and our recommendation Sherpa Barista restaurant for delicious food. (Pizza, Biryani are a must)

  • ✅Gokyo Lake 4900M

Emerald lake Gokyo seen from Gokyo ri falls on the Itinerary

Panoramic view from Gokyo Ri

The emerald Gokyo lake is one of the most stunning high-altitude glacier lakes in Khumbu. Gokyo Ri 5375M is a viewpoint where the long Khumbu Himalayan range can be seen. (Image above)

  • ✅Ultimate Bucket List - 🏔Everest Base Camp 5346M

The iconic Everest base camp is filled with expedition teams during spring whereas in autumn with no Everest expedition it is just an empty vast glacier land. The mighty flowing Khumbu icefall is visible upon reaching the base camp. EBC ticked off from your bucket list during this expedition.

Want to plan your expedition to the Lobuche East and Island Peak expedition in Nepal? For more information on our Khumbu Three Peak expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

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