Annapurna 4 is part of the grander Annapurna massif range in central Nepal. It sits right between Annapurna 2 and 3 and can be considered the safest Annapurna climb.

Spring (Mid March – May) is ideal, is considered the best time to climb overall in Nepal. This period generally provides clear skies, stable weather and great snow conditions in the mountain. We must say Annapurna 4 has been least climbed or explored during the spring season.

Autumn (Late September - November) is another great climbing window in overall Nepal and in the Annapurna region. We have operated mostly during the autumn season at Annapurna 4 achieving summit and safety success in our expeditions.

For the Annapurna IV expedition, our team takes on the classic North-West Ridge route, known for its stunning views and fewer objective risks compared to other 7000M peaks. Our experienced rope-fixing team sets up fixed lines all the way to the summit, making the climb safer and more manageable, even on the steeper, more exposed sections.

Our strategy is straightforward but flexible. We typically establish three camps—Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3—along the North-West Ridge to support a gradual, well-paced ascent. A potential Camp 4 may be set up, but our expedition leader will make that call based on real-time mountain conditions to ensure safety and success. For a deeper dive into our climbing plan, check out the Expedition Strategy section on our Annapurna IV page

Annapurna IV is considered an advanced 7000m expedition and is graded TD+ (Technical Difficile Plus), alpine grade 4. It’s a serious climb ideal for mountaineers preparing for 8000m expeditions.

The route includes steep snow slopes, vertical sections, exposed ridges, and mixed rock-ice terrain. Fixed lines are placed on technical sections, but climbers must be proficient in:

• Rock and mixed climbing

• Climbing in deep snow and cold conditions

• Rappelling and ascending fixed lines efficiently

• Traversing exposed, technical alpine terrain

This is not a “guided walk-up.” Annapurna IV demands solid alpine experience, strong physical fitness, and mental resilience in high-altitude conditions.

Summit day on Annapurna IV is a straightforward but demanding high-altitude climb, primarily on ice and snow terrain. We start the ascent early in the morning (typically 1:00–3:00 AM) to ensure safe snow conditions and favorable weather.

The route from High Camp (Camp 3) involves:

• Moderate to steep snow slopes

• Fixed ropes on steeper sections

• Cold, windy conditions — proper layering and focus are critical

Depending on team pace and conditions, we aim to reach the summit by mid-morning, then descend safely back to Camp 3 or Camp 2 for rest.

While the route isn’t highly technical on summit day, it requires strong endurance, solid crampon technique, and the ability to move efficiently in extreme conditions.

Our team maintains a high success rate due to strong logistics, expert Sherpas, and smart acclimatization plans.

We have 100% safety record at Annapurna 4 (Touch wood)

Yes — significantly safer.

Annapurna IV is widely regarded as the safest and most achievable expedition in the Annapurna massif.

• Annapurna I (8,091m) is one of the most dangerous 8000ers, with a high fatality rate due to avalanches and unstable terrain.

• Annapurna II & III are extremely technical and exposed, rarely attempted by commercial expeditions due to objective hazards and low success rates.

• Annapurna IV offers a more stable, predictable route with fewer fatal incidents, strong summit history, and proven safety under expert management.

It’s still an advanced climb, but with proper acclimatization, technical readiness, and our experienced support team, Annapurna IV offers a safe and smart pathway into high-altitude Himalayan climbing.

Climbing Annapurna IV (7525M) is a serious but achievable challenge for intermediate mountaineers. You’ll need to be comfortable using crampons, ascending with a jumar, and descending with a 10–15kg pack. The North-West Ridge route includes steep, rocky sections (especially between Camps 1, 2, and 3) and some exposed ridges, requiring fixed-rope climbing skills typical of Himalayan expeditions. It’s rated TD+/4, making it tougher than entry-level 7000M peaks like Spantik but safer than 8000M giants like Annapurna I.

We set up 3–4 camps, with Camp 4 depending on mountain conditions, as decided by our expedition leader. Our Sherpa team fixes ropes to the summit (weather permitting), and you’ll use supplemental oxygen from the final camp to boost safety and success. With fewer climbers on Annapurna IV, expect a hands-on experience with stunning views.

If you’ve successfully climbed several 4000M–6000M peaks and are preparing for an 8000M objective like Everest, Annapurna IV is an ideal next step. It offers a true high-altitude climbing experience without the crowds—comparable to Manaslu in challenge—and now fulfills Nepal’s new 7000M summit requirement to qualify for Everest.

You’ll need prior high-altitude climbing experience, ideally on 6000M peaks like Khumbu 3 peak or Annapurna 3 peak, or combo exped like Lobuche East (6119M), Island Peak (6189M), or Alpamayo (5947M). Familiarity with rock climbing, glacier travel, fixed-rope climbing, and basic ice/snow techniques (e.g., using crampons and ice axes) is essential. Our 16-week Training Peaks program will help you build the stamina and skills needed, but you should already have some alpine climbing under your belt.

This is a serious 7000M climb, so you need to be in top physical shape. Expect long days (8–12 hours) at high altitude with a 10–15kg pack. Focus on endurance (e.g., 5–6 hour hikes), strength training (e.g., squats, deadlifts), and high-intensity intervals (e.g., VO2 max sessions). We recommend a hypoxic tent for acclimatization training. Our team provides a personalized training plan when you book, tailored to your current fitness level.

Yes, Annapurna IV involves moderate technical climbing (TD+/4 grade), including rock climbing, glacier routes and steep snow/ice ridges (up to 50°). You should be comfortable with fixed ropes, jumaring, and basic ice climbing. If you’ve climbed 6000M peaks in Nepal and other technical peaks around the world, you’re on the right track. Our IFMGA/NNMGA-certified guides will lead the way and provide refresher training at base camp.

• 4000 - 6500 M peak of mountain summit. Your adaptability to high altitude and climbing on high steep terrains.

• Rock climbing grade 5.7 - 5.9

• Commitment to regular endurance and strengthening training.

• Climbing with crampons on and understand the nature of physical demands that the mountain requires.

• Ascending with jumar and descending on fixed rope

Once you book with us we provide a 16 week training program from Training Peak.Begin training at least 16 weeks before departure. Key areas include:

• Cardio: Run, cycle, or hike 4–5 times weekly to build endurance.

• Strength: Focus on legs, core, and upper body with exercises like lunges and pull-ups.

• Altitude Preparation: Practice hikes at elevation or use a hypoxic tent.

• Technical Skills: Brush up on rope work,

On this expedition we aim to have max 10 climbers, we have 1 Main guide who will be IMFGA or NMA certified. He will be the main leader of the team. We believe that Nepalese certified guides are more than capable in this day and age and have an excellent level of English. We are committed to responsible tourism and want to enhance and prioritise local Nepalese leaders first, but if the clients request a western guide personally then we can have that arranged.

Sherpa ratio 1:1. Our Sherpas are NMA (Khumbu climbing centre trained/certified). Additional Personal Sherpa for 1:1 can be arranged who will be solely responsible for the clients but extra additional charges apply. Our Sherpas have an intermediate level of English. Can understand, reply and instruct very well.

Suggested Additional Summit tips $1000.

No — you don’t. One of the unique aspects of climbing in Nepal is the high level of support. Our Sherpa team handles all logistics at high camps, including:

• Setting up tents

• Melting snow for water

• Preparing basic meals

This allows you to focus fully on the climb, rest, and recovery.
Please note that at high altitudes, meals and water service are basic and may take time due to conditions — your patience is appreciated.