Intermediate level 7000M+ Mountaineering Expeditions - Namas Adventure

March 8, 2024

Intermediate level 7000M+ Mountaineering Expeditions

In this article, we aim to introduce you to the thrilling world of 7000-meter intermediate-level expeditions. These remote climbs offer a unique blend of adventure, challenge, and joy, with fewer summits compared to their higher counterparts. A perfect mission for intermediate-level climbers, these expeditions provide an exciting opportunity to push your limits and conquer towering peaks. While 7000-meter peaks may not boast the same bragging rights as 8000-meter summits, they offer a special experience for those who seek pure joy in thin-air alpine challenges and push themselves to extreme altitudes. Whether you're testing your skills or simply marveling at the wonders of nature, embarking on a 7000-meter expedition promises an exhilarating journey filled with excitement and achievement. Below, we'll explore some of the best intermediate-level 7000M peaks that we've had the privilege of exploring, providing you with valuable information to help you plan your next adventure. We look forward to the opportunity to serve you on any expedition you choose to embark on.

Note - We will continue to expand and update our list of peaks as we explore more 7000-meter peaks in the years to come.

BARUNTSE 7129M

After receiving extensive feedback from our clientele members, we have decided to reclassify Baruntse from a beginner level to an intermediate-level peak. Our frist recommendation for an intermediate 7000-meter-plus peak is Mount Baruntse. Standing at 7129 meters, Baruntse is conveniently located between the Khumbu region and the towering peak of Makalu (8646m). Mera Peak (6476m) serves as an excellent acclimatization peak before tackling Baruntse, and it can also be accessed via the Ampahu Lhabtas pass (5800m). The climb itself involves setting up two high alpine camps, with relatively fewer objective dangers, offering climbers a high success rate. Most successful summit attempts occur during the autumn season climb.

Pre-requisite requirements include climbing experience on peaks such as Lobuche East and Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu Three Peaks or Annapurna Three Peaks, Alpamayo, Mont Blanc, Zermatt, or other similar-grade mountains. These experiences will help prepare climbers for the challenges of Mount Baruntse.

BARUNTSE 7129M

Tiiicho PEAK 7134M

Tilicho Peak, standing at an impressive 7134 meters, presents a thrilling yet fulfilling challenge for climbers seeking technical ascents in the 7000-meter peak range. The journey begins with a scenic trek through the Annapurna circuit, leading to the stunning Tilicho Lake, the highest lake in the world at an elevation of 4910 meters.

Located north of Manang in the Annapurna Region, Tilicho Peak boasts a majestic northeast ridge covered in snow, offering panoramic views of the high Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east. Nearby lies the mystical land of Mustang to the north.

To undertake this adventure, climbers should meet certain prerequisites, such as experience on peaks like Alpamayo, Khumbu Three Peaks, or Annapurna Three Peaks, Himlung Himal and have mixed climbing grade 2-3 or ice climbing experience WIII-IV.

The standard climbing route follows the northwest shoulder, with Base Camp situated at 4800 meters at the lake's northwest end. With fewer climbers in the Annapurna mountain range, adventurers can enjoy the breathtaking landscape almost exclusively to themselves.

TILICHO PEAK

KHAN TENGRI 7439M

Khan Tengri 7439M, is located in Kazakhstan (highest peak). This breathtaking mountain falls on the Tien Shan mountain range of Central Asia (boundaries between Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and the Uygur Autonomous Region of Xinjiang, China), Khan Tengri offers an exhilarating challenge for intermediate climbers seeking an unforgettable adventure.

Pre-requisite requirements for this expedition include, Lobuche East & Island Peak, Khumbu 3 Peak or Annapurna 3 Peak, Alpamayo, Himlung Himal or expeditions with similar grades

Climbing Khan Tengri presents a unique set of challenges, blending technical skill with physical endurance. This expedition is also known for gaining altitude rapidly and objective dangers of avalanches are higher too making it one of the peaks with at least 7000M summits with the amount of climbers at the peak each season. Aspiring climbers should expect to navigate steep slopes, crevasses, and changing weather conditions. The weather in Khan Tengri is known for its notorious nature and is unpredictable, with temperatures dropping drastically and strong winds posing additional obstacles. However, with proper preparation and guidance, climbers can overcome these challenges and reach the summit.

Conclusion

Embarking on a 7000-meter intermediate expedition is a journey filled with challenge, adventure, and personal growth. Each of these peaks presents formidable sets of mixed challenges, combining technical prowess with classic mountaineering skills, all while demanding both physical and mental resilience. From the towering peaks of Baruntse to the technical ascents of Tilicho Peak, every expedition offers climbers the opportunity to push their limits and conquer remarkable heights.

As we continue to explore more peaks and expand our experiences, we eagerly anticipate sharing more adventures with you. Whether you're drawn to the thrill of high-altitude climbing or simply captivated by the beauty of the world's tallest mountains, there's an expedition waiting for you.

We embark on select peaks yearly and would be honored to have the chance to take you on one of these remote and less summited expeditions. Together, we can create unforgettable memories and face the challenge of the mountains, discovering just how far you can push yourselves and leveling up for even greater adventures. Dream big, prepare diligently, and let's make this climb together.

Let's go, LIVE YOUR STORY

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Climbers Guide: Annapurna IV or Annapurna 4, 7525M - Namas Adventure

February 19, 2024

Annapurna IV, false summit 7300 and real summit 7525M (middle top)

Climbers Guide: Annapurna IV or Annapurna 4, 7525M

MOUNTAIN OVERVIEW

Name: Annapurna IV or Annapurna 4 (Link)

Elevation: 7525M/24688FT

Co-ordinates: 28°32′15″N 84°4′58″E

Crowd level: Minimum (Spring/Autumn, 0 - 20)

Difficulty grading: TD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)

Location: Annapurna region. Humde, Manang.

Parent Mountain: Annapurna massif

Acclimatisation Rotation: 1 rotation

Camps: 4 high camps

Summits: 1 Fore Summit / 1 Main Summit

Country: Nepal

ABOUT THE MOUNTAIN

Annapurna IV, standing at 7,527 meters, presents an ideal mountaineering challenge for climbers seeking a rewarding ascent with manageable technical requirements. Situated within the renowned Annapurna massif range, it occupies a prominent position between Annapurna II (7,937 meters) to the west and Annapurna III (7,555 meters) to the east.

Unlike its neighboring peaks, Annapurna IV offers a climbing route with fewer inherent dangers and a semi-technical nature, making it accessible to climbers with moderate experience levels. Within the Annapurna massif range, it is recognized as the least perilous and least technically demanding summit.

Despite its exceptional attributes, Annapurna IV remains relatively less frequented compared to other peaks in the region. However, its allure lies in its lesser-known status, offering climbers the opportunity for a unique and memorable ascent amidst the breathtaking Himalayan landscape.

HISTORY

Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge.

HOW TO GET HERE?

There is one main route to get to Annapurna IV Base Camp.

Via Humde village, Manang

Manang village, acclimatisation hike 3519M

Route to Annapurna IV Base Camp 4800M - 4850M

We highly recommend an acclimatization trek to Manang village at 3,519M, before hiking up to the AIV base camp. Climbers will navigate through lush pine forests and uphill terrain heading toward base camp. Climbers will have to hike up the steep hill and moraine to reach the Annapurna IV base camp situated at 4,800 meters.

Set against the backdrop of the majestic Annapurna massif, the Annapurna IV base camp offers a picturesque setting with panoramic views of Annapurna II, IV, and III. The flat surfaces of the hill provide ample space for setting up multiple camps, while nearby glacier lakes and streams serve as reliable water sources for expedition use.

Annapurna IV, Base Camp, 4800M - 4850M

Route to Camp 1 5500M. 5 - 7 hours

Traversing the moraine glacier, climbers will ascend to the base of the mountain. The journey to Camp 1 entails a challenging ascent up a steep, rocky slope. To assist climbers, a fixed line will be established by the team, facilitating vertical climbs with inclines ranging from 60 to 80 degrees on sharp rock slabs. Negotiating this rugged terrain involves scrambling, jummaring, and traversing exposed sections of the mountain—a crucial initial technical phase of the ascent.

Expeditions conducted during the spring season should anticipate encountering a substantial amount of snow compared to expeditions in autumn.

Camp 1, 5500M

Route to Camp 2, 5500M - 5600M. 5- 6 hours

The ascent to Camp 2 commences with a challenging uphill climb of loose rocky terrain before climbers reach a designated crampon point. Here, team members secure their crampons in preparation for an 80-degree steep climb across icy and snowy terrain.

Climbing towards camp 2, the route carefully avoids areas prone to avalanches, it skirts the left side of the mountain, where avalanche activity is more common. Despite initial apprehensions, climbers can rest assured that the climbing route is designed with safety in mind and is not susceptible to avalanches. Although a few crevasses may be encountered along the way, they are manageable, either by navigating around them or making calculated leaps across. It is essential for climbers to remain securely attached to the fixed line throughout the ascent.

Offering breathtaking views of the Annapurna wall and the expansive glacier, this climb presents a picturesque and rewarding experience amidst the awe-inspiring scenery of the Himalayas.

Camp 2, 6500M

Situated on a compact, level expanse of the mountainside, this camp offers protection from strong winds originating from the north and northeast sections of the mountain range. Prepare to be captivated by the breathtaking panorama unfolding before you. From this vantage point, the majestic peak of Manaslu, towering at 8,163 meters, commands attention in the distant horizon. Additionally, the formidable wall of Annapurna II dominates the landscape, extending far into the leftward vista, where the impressive silhouettes of Himchuli and the Chulu ranges adorn the skyline..

View from camp 2. Annapurna II 7937M and Manaslu 8163M in the far distant.

Route to Camp 3 (6 - 7 hours)

Upon departing from Camp 2, climbers will immediately face a challenging ascent up the headwall, marked by a steep incline. Following the climb past two prominent boulders, climbers will encounter a sizable crevasse directly ahead. While manageable, this crevasse presents a notable obstacle, with plans for ladder crossings in future expeditions should the opening widen.

Upon successfully navigating the crevasse and ascending another incline, climbers will find themselves traversing across a vast expanse of snowfield. After approximately 1.5 to 2 hours of rigorous climbing, Camp 3 comes into view, offering a welcome respite amidst the stunning mountainous terrain.

Camp 3, 6600M

Positioned on the expansive shoulder of the mountain, Camp 3 offers 360 views of the surrounding mountains. Fishtail (Machhapucchre) mountain is directly to the north-east along with Annapurna 1 and south. With a sweeping view of a significant portion of the mountain directly ahead, climbers have the option to strategize their summit route either along the mountain's slopes or via its southern aspect. Given the complexity of this vast slope and the absence of marked routes typical of more commercialized mountains, the presence of experienced leaders and skilled route setters is imperative.

Navigating this terrain demands a high level of expertise, as the route may not be easily discernible, and few climbers are likely to traverse it. Additionally, certain areas may pose a risk of avalanches, underscoring the importance of proficiency in navigation and avalanche detection. With the guidance of seasoned professionals, climbers can confidently navigate the challenges of Camp 3 and proceed with their ascent toward the summit.

The chaos to navigate to make it to the summit.

Route to Camp 4, (6 - 8 hours)

Embarking from Camp 3 towards Camp 4 involves traversing snowy fields and negotiating uphill slopes before descending across snow fields. The subsequent grueling ascent presents a continuous uphill climb toward the mountain's shoulder, requiring precise navigation skills from route setters.

This route offers teams two challenging options: a direct push to the summit from Camp 3, with an overnight stop at Camp 4 on the return, or a camp at Camp 4 followed by a summit push before returning to Camp 3. Camp 4, positioned at 7000 meters altitude on a flat surface, demands extra caution due to potentially windy conditions.

Camp 4 can be on the setup on the shoulder (middle) of the mountain.

true Summit of Annapurna IV 7525M to Camp 4 (7000M). 10-12 Hours

Climbers need to prepare themselves mentally for a lengthy, steep, and arduous journey to the summit. The ascent from Camp 3 to the summit and back typically spans 12-14 hours. Following departure from Camp 3, climbers face a daunting 1000-meter climb characterized by its steepness and length, making it a formidable challenge.

Safety measures include the installation of fixed lines along perilous and overhanging sections of the mountain walls. Weather permitting, summit views offer a breathtaking panorama encompassing the entire Annapurna massif range, including Annapurna I, II, III, Gangapurna, and Tilicho Peak, as well as prominent peaks like Manaslu (8163 meters), Machhpucchre, Ganesh Himal, and Dhaulagiri.

Upon completion of the summit, the objective is to return safely to Camp 4. Camp overnight, rest for a night and then an early downhill morning to base camp, which is expected to be a long 8-10 hours descend from the mountain, bringing our expedition to a conclusion.

Namas Adventure team members at Annapurna IV 7525M true summit. This one will be for life time memories. What a climb and pure test of grit, will and mental toughness.

Watch full Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition video

Feel inspired to embark on a 7525M remote expedition with not many climbers? Let us be your guide to remote mountain peaks in the Himalayan region, including the challenging Annapurna IV at 7525 meters. Our specialized team excels in safely accessing and navigating these pristine mountain territories, opening up new possibilities for exploration and discovery.

INQUIRE ANNAPURNA IV EXPEDITION

ANNAPURNA IV - LINK

Visit our website for more information on our Annapurna IV expedition and our range of international expeditions. For booking inquiries, reach out to us at bookings@namasadventure.com.

Unleash the explorer within you, and climb where less has been.

LIVE YOUR STORY - NAMAS ADVENTURE TEAM

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A Guide to Climbing at-least one 8000M+ Mountain peak - Namas Adventure

February 18, 2024

Manaslu 8163M. Considered one of the lesser difficult 8000er

A GUIDE TO CLIMBING AT LEAST ONE 8000M+ MOUNTAIN PEAK

How can I prepare to climb an 8000m peak? I aspire to summit at least one 8000m peak. What steps should I take to fulfill this dream of mine? These are common inquiries we receive from passionate adventurers seeking guidance on their journey to conquer the world's highest peaks.

Is it your dream to climb at least one 8000M+ in your lifetime? If so, then in this blog article we aim to guide you towards how to prepare for an 8000M+ climb through preparatory stages, and which 8000m peak should undoubtedly be on your initial list.

Embarking on the journey to summit an 8000m peak is a dream cherished by many adventurers. In this comprehensive guide, we provide expert advice to prepare you for this monumental endeavor and recommend the ideal peaks to start your journey. Pushing your limits and summiting one of the 8000M peaks on Earth can be an incredibly rewarding and life-changing experience.

Setting Your Goals High: Summiting an 8000m peak epitomizes the ultimate test of endurance, skill, and mental resilience. Few achievements rival the sense of accomplishment gained from conquering these towering giants. By setting your sights on an 8000m peak, you embark on an extraordinary adventure that promises unforgettable experiences and lifelong memories.

Preparation Is Key: Climbing an 8000m peak demands meticulous planning, rigorous training, and expert guidance. Before undertaking such a formidable challenge, it is imperative to undergo comprehensive mountaineering training and seek guidance from seasoned professionals. Additionally, climbing several 4000m-6000m peaks is essential to hone your skills and build confidence for the ultimate ascent.

Gradual Progression: Success in mountaineering requires patience and gradual progression. Before attempting an 8000m expedition, it is advisable to summit at least one 7000m or 7500m peak to acclimatize to higher altitudes and assess your readiness. This incremental approach allows you to gain valuable experience and confidence before tackling the grandeur of an 8000m peak.

Endurance & Strength is Essential: Achieving success at high altitudes necessitates exceptional physical fitness and endurance. Incorporate regular endurance, muscular endurance, and strength training into your routine to build stamina and resilience. Activities such as hiking, running, cycling, and weight training are invaluable in preparing your body for the rigors of high-altitude climbing.

Mind Over Matter: Mental preparedness is just as crucial as physical strength in the realm of mountaineering. Cultivating a positive mindset, envisioning success, and mentally preparing for the trials ahead are paramount. Maintaining focus, determination, and resilience amidst adversity is key to overcoming obstacles and inching closer to your summit goal. While these may seem like clichés, they hold immense significance during the final stages of safely completing your ascent of an 8000m peak.

So, which 8000M+ should you climb? Below are our recommendations

Choosing Your Peak: For climbers with minimum prerequisites, Cho Oyu (8201m) or Manaslu (8163m) stands out as the ideal 8000M mountain expedition. Amongst 8000M mountains, these peaks are renowned for their least difficult terrain, lower fatal rate, and higher success rates, making them favorable choices. However, it's essential to acknowledge the inherent challenges of any mountain expedition and approach each ascent with respect and caution. No mountain expedition should be taken lightly.

Consider Everest: For seasoned climbers with great fitness profiles, with a proven track record of conquering numerous endurance events such as marathons, ultras, and Ironman competitions, coupled with successful ascents on multiple 4000m, 6000m, and 7000m expeditions, Mount Everest beckons as the ultimate challenge. Everest calls upon those who are prepared to push their boundaries and stand atop the world's highest summit.

With an ever-growing community of climbers, well-established teams, and increasingly safer routes compared to other 8000m expeditions, Everest stands as an exceptional choice for individuals possessing exceptional physical fitness, unwavering mental toughness, a wealth of climbing experiences, and the financial means to embark on a guided expedition.

Moreover, considering the inclusion of Lhotse 8516M alongside Everest offers a compelling proposition. With approximately 70% of the route overlapping, this can fit right in the mix for double 8000er.

In Conclusion: Embarking on the journey to climb an 8000m peak is an extraordinary endeavor that promises unparalleled rewards. While meticulous planning, physical fitness, and preparation are essential, it's when the challenges become most daunting that your mental fortitude truly shines. Battling every inch of the mountain, refusing to surrender easily, and persevering through each demanding step are the ultimate keys to success.

Though these principles may seem straightforward in theory, they demand unwavering self-discipline, meticulous planning, relentless self-motivation, and a steadfast commitment to gradual progress from the very moment you commit to pursuing your dream of conquering an 8000m peak. Remember, the journey to success may be challenging, but with unwavering dedication and perseverance, you can ascend to the pinnacle of achievement.

At Namas Adventure, we are dedicated to helping adventurers like yourself turn their dreams into reality and conquer the world's highest peaks. Let's begin by discussing your plans and aspirations, and together, we'll take the necessary steps forward. Allow our experienced team to guide you towards achieving your dream of summiting an 8000m mountain peak.

Your dream adventure awaits—let's make your 8000M dream a reality.

Live Your Story.

Expeditions Mentioned

INTRODUCTION TO MOUNTAINEERING

IFMGA GUIDED 14 DAYS COURSE.
CHULU FAR EAST 6059M

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6000M PEAK EXPEDITIONS

SOLO, COMBO OR THREE PEAKS

LEARN MORE

7000M EXPEDITIONS

BEGINNER. INTERMEDIATE & ADVANCED LEVEL 7000ER

LEARN MORE

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Best 7000M+ peaks to climb in Nepal - Namas Adventure

February 11, 2024

Best 7000M+ peaks to climb in Nepal

Although 7000M peaks do not have the same level of prestige as 8000M peaks or the highest peaks in the world, they can still be a great challenge for adventure seekers. While these peaks may not be as well-known as their higher counterparts, they offer a unique and rewarding experience for climbers. 7000-meter peaks are ideal for those who are seeking a true adventure challenge, and who are motivated by a love of climbing, cultural immersion, and personal accomplishment. If you are one of these passionate climbers, consider embarking on a mountaineering expedition to one of the six 7000er peaks in Nepal listed in this post. These peaks offer a chance to push your limits and achieve something truly remarkable.

Below we have listed 6 amazing and remote peaks to climb in the Nepalese Himalayan range.

Note - Prior experience of alpine or mountaineering climb above 4000+M - 6000M+ is a must. Skill and fitness requirements will vary from different mountain peak objectives.

1. Himlung Himal 7126M (Least difficult & least technical 7000er)

Himlung Himal summit Namas Adventure — Summit of Himlung Himal 7126M, Vincente 2022 Fall expedition.

Altitude: 7126M / 23,379ft

Climbers’ experience level: Intermediate/Advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring, 5-20), Moderate (Autumn, 50 - 150)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October
Duration: 30 Days
Difficulty grading: AD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Base camp, Camp 1/2/3

Himlung Himal, standing at 7126 meters, is widely considered to be one of the safest and easiest 7000 meter peaks to climb in Nepal. Thanks to new, safer routes pioneered by French and Swiss climbers, Himlung Himal may become more accessible to climbers seeking a less technically demanding experience in western Nepal. The peak was not climbed until 1992, when it was conquered by a Japanese expedition, due to the fact that the area was not open to foreigners until the early 1990s. Located between the Manaslu and Annapurna ranges, the base camp for Himlung Himal is set up at an elevation of 4900 meters. The previous route up the peak, via the northwest ridge, has become increasingly prone to avalanche danger. A new, normal route was pioneered in 2013 by Kari Kobler of Switzerland, which offers an interesting and relatively short climb with limited objective danger. This route ascends the south flank of the northwest ridge to reach the upper crest, bypassing the previous route.

Note - Himlung Himal 7126M has the most successful summit records amongst all the 7000M+ commercial expeditions in Nepal. (Himalayan Database)

The Himlung Himal climbing expedition involves establishing 2-3 high camps at elevations of 5430 meters, 6000 meters, and 6300 meters. The summit day involves an ascent of 1100 meters through snow slopes with an angle of 40-45 degrees, requiring good snow conditions. Deep snow can pose a challenge even for strong teams. The climb is technically simple and objectively safe, making it an ideal preparation for your first 8000 meter peak.

History: First Ascent by the Japanese team in 1992.

Climb - Himlung Himal Link

Himlung Himal Expedition link

2. Baruntse Peak 7129M (intermediate level and demanding)

Baruntse summit 7129M — Namas team on Baruntse Summit and fixed the climbing line to the summit during 22 fall expedition

Altitude: 7129M/ 23,389 ft

Acclimatization peak: Mera Peak 6476M
Climbers experience level: Intermediate level Experience
Crowd level: Minimum (Autumn, 15 - 40 climbers)
Location: Makalu Barun National Park
When to climb?: March-May or September - November
Duration: 32 - 35 Days
Difficulty Grading: D/ 4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Camping at Mera Peak/Baruntse BC/Camp 1 - 2

The Baruntse 7129M and Mera Peak 6476M climbing expedition offers a challenging and rewarding experience at the 7000 meter level. Baruntse, standing at 7129 meters, is located between Lhotse and Makalu, with other Himalayan peaks stretching out on either side. Teams often climb the nearby Mera Peak (6476 meters/21,246 feet) as an acclimatization climb, which falls on the same route as Baruntse. Once the base camp is established and the team has undergone training and a Puja ceremony, the real climb begins. Baruntse involves semi-technical climbing on steep slopes of 60 - 70 degrees incline to Camp 1 at 6000M via west col. The second camp is located at 6420 meters. Both camps are set up in exposed areas and are prone to high winds, so climbers should be prepared for unexpected weather conditions. The climbing route consists mainly of ice and snow, with very little rocky terrain after the first camp. Crevasses may appear more during the spring season compared to autumn along the route, and the objective at around 6900 meters can be dangerous. Experienced guidance is recommended in order to safely navigate the route to the summit.

History: Baruntse was first climbed on May 30, 1954 via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Climb - Baruntse with Mera Peak Expedition link

Baruntse expedition

3. Annapurna IV 7525M (advanced level, technical & physically demanding)

Altitude: 7525M / 24,688ft
Climbers experience level: Intermediate+/Advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring/Autumn, 0 - 20)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October
Total no of days: 33 Days
Difficulty grading: TD+/4 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Base camp, Camps 1/2/3/4

Annapurna IV 7525M, is a great mountaineering objective for climbers looking for a challenging, but relatively safe and semi-technical climb. At 7527 meters, it is part of the Annapurna massif range and is located between Annapurna II and Annapurna III. While it may not be as popular as other peaks in the region, it offers fewer objective dangers and is considered the least technical of the Annapurna massif peaks (Annapurna I, II, III, IV, and Gangapurna). This mountain is not climbed as often as other peaks in the region.

History: Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge.

ANNAPURNA IV EXPED - LINK

Climb - Annapurna IV (Click here)

4. Tilicho Peak 7134M (intermediate level and remote climb)

Altitude: 7134M / 23,405ft ft

Climbers experience level: Intermediate to advanced
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring/autumn, 0-10 members)
Location: Annapurna Region
When to climb?: September - October-November
Total no of days: 32 Days
Difficulty grading: D+/4 (Alpine grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Basecamp, Camps 1/2/3

If you're seeking a technical challenge at the 7000M level, Tilicho Peak may be the climb for you. The expedition starts with a beautiful trek through the Annapurna circuit, culminating in a visit to Tilicho lake, the highest lake in the world, at an elevation of 4910 meters. Located in the Annapurna region of Nepal to the north of Manang, Tilicho Peak stands at a majestic 7134 meters. Its northeast ridge, covered in snow, towers over the Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east, with the hidden kingdom of Mustang just a few miles to the north. The standard climbing route for the peak is the northwest shoulder, with the base camp located at 4910 meters on the northwest end of the lake.

Tilicho Peak is a technical climb that requires proficiency in climbing skills and physical fitness. It is recommended that climbers have previous experience in alpine and high-altitude climbing. The peak is graded as 4D, with a combination of rock and ice climbing, as well as glaciers. There are three high camps established on the route to the summit of Tilicho Peak. The climb from the base camp to Camp 1 at 5800 meters is straightforward, along a 50-degree mixed rock and ice route that is 590 meters in length. Camp 2, at 6200 meters, is located on the shoulder and can be accessed via a 55-degree snowfield that is 450 meters in length. The shoulder has an angle of 55 degrees and an 800-meter snowfield, with low objective danger and minimal exposure due to the wide width of the shoulder. Fixed ropes are required for the 40-degree slope to reach Camp 2 at 6300 meters. The summit is approached by climbing stretches of a 60-degree slope.

History: The first ascent was made in 1978 by the French climber Emanuel Schmutz using the northwest shoulder.

Climb - Tilicho Peak (Click here)

Tilicho Peak Expedition

5. Putha Hiunchuli 7246M (Dhaulagiri VII) (least difficult and least technical. Remote 7000er)

Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) 7246M, Photo by - Nunatak

Altitude: 7,246M / 23773ft
Difficulty: Least difficult and least technical
Crowd level: Minimum (Autumn, 5 - 20)
Location: Dhaulagiri Range
When to climb?: September - October
Total no of days: 31 Days
Difficulty grading: AD+/4 (Alpine grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Basecamp, Camp 1/2/3

Dhaulagiri VII (also known as 'Putha Hiunchuli') is one of the most accessible 7000M+ peaks in the Dhaulagiri range. It is located in the remote Dolpo or the wild west region of Nepal. Although most of the 7000M+ peaks are in remote corners of Nepal, this region even to locals is remotest compared to other regions of Nepal.

The climbing route has no significant technical climbing, the mountain is still a serious undertaking and provides excellent training for those who want to attempt Everest or other 8,000m peaks. Teams will be setting up three high altitude camps and a base camp. This can be considered as one of the easy climbs when we compare it amongst other 7000M peaks yet it is not to be underestimated. If you want to add an extra thrill then climbers with off-piste ski experiences can attempt a ski when descending.

History: This peak was first climbed by J.O.M Roberts and Ang Nima Sherpa in 1954.

Climb - Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) Click here

Putha Hiunchuli 7246M Expedition

6. Ama Dablam 6819M (advanced level & technical climb)

Altitude: 6,812M / 22,349ft

Acclimatization: Island peak 6180M
Climbers experience level: Advanced/Pro Level
Crowd level: Minimum (Spring, 5 - 20), Excessive (Autumn, 200 - 300) Mid October - Mid November is the busiest.
Location: Khumbu Region
When to climb?: September - November
Total no of days: 30 Days
Difficulty grading: TD+/5 (Alpine/Fitness grading info)
Accommodation: Lodges and Cam / Camping Island Peak BC/Highcamp/ Ama Dablam BC / Camp 1-2 and Camp 2.1 (depending on yearly climbing assessment)

Ama Dablam, standing at 6,856 meters, may not be as tall as some of the other 7000M peaks, but it is no less challenging. In fact, it is considered to be just as difficult as many of the 7000-meter peaks and is a must-do for alpine and mountain climbing enthusiasts. The combination of rock, snow, and ice climbing, along with exposed terrain and sections of almost 90-degree slopes, makes this peak a true test of skill and endurance. It is also known for its beauty and is highly sought after by even seasoned Everest summiteers. If you are looking for a thrilling and challenging mountain climbing experience, Ama Dablam is the peak for you.

Expedition teams normally utilize Island peak 6189M as an acclimatization peak before settling down at Ama Dablam base camp. The peak attracts a lot of climbers during the autumn season, rightly so because of its climbing nature. This expedition involves a cultural trek into the base camp and climbing on technical rock, vertical snow and ice routes and stunning exposed panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the summit. Teams climb Amadablam via the South West ridge, a technical route, and the standard route setting up 2 or possibly 3 camps (camp 3 depends on the assessment by each year’s rope fixing team). The route on the summit day is on steep snow and ice slopes, with outrageous exposure directly to the summit.

History: Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition lead by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Climb - Ama Dablam with Island Peak Expedition (Link)

Ama Dablam Expedition link

If you're looking to add some incredible mountain climbing experiences to your repertoire, consider tackling one of the 7000M+ peaks. Whether you're looking to build up to climbing even higher or just want the thrill of a mountaineering expedition, the peaks listed above offer some of the best mountain climbing adventures in the world. Located in remote areas and reaching high altitudes, each of these peaks has its own unique character and climbing challenges. We hope that these 7000M+ peaks will receive the recognition they deserve and that Nepal will continue to welcome mountain climbers from around the globe.

If you have any questions then there are some peaks like Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Tilicho Peak, Himlung Himal, and Annapurna IV expedition. We at Namas organize yearly departures but for other peaks such as Putha Hiunchuli, and Gangapurna upon inquiry our team will be able to organize a fully serviced expedition.

Go. Dare greater things.

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Visual journey of Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition - NAMAS ADVENTURE

December 22, 2023

Visual journey

Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition

Learn more about Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition

Early reminder - Click to enlarge on images

Annapurna IV, standing tall at 7525 meters, is an exhilarating gem nestled within the roaring Annapurna massif. Although it may be the least tallest among the Annapurna peaks, conquering it is anything but easy. With fewer commercial teams venturing this way, it's an ideal choice for climbers seeking remoteness and a healthy dose of adventure. During the fall of 2023, we were the sole expedition on the mountain, a small group of 15 intrepid souls facing this magnificent giant, offering a visual feast for those seeking their next mountaineering challenge.

Our journey kicks off in Kathmandu, embarking on a scenic drive to Besisahar. From there, it's an adventurous off-road (albeit bumpy) ride along the Annapurna circuit trail to reach the charming village of Koto. Trekking approximately 20 kilometers leads us to the picturesque village of Humde. Along the way, we conduct acclimatization rotations and soak in the stunning natural beauty while relishing delicious meals in the serene village of Manang.

2023 Fall Namas Adventure Annapurn IV squad. Jeep ride via beautiful waterfalls

Village of Upper Pisang and Gateway to heaven (Swarga Dwar) Mountain in the middle.

Route to Annapurna IV Base Camp 4800M - 4850M

The trek to Annapurna IV Base Camp involves a significant altitude gain in a single day. Following our acclimatization trek to Manang village at 3519 meters, once acclimatized, we gear up for a steep ascent of 1400 meters to reach the Annapurna 4 base camp. The trail winds through lush pine forests, leading us uphill as we make our way toward the base camp.

Annapurna IV, Base Camp, 4800M - 4850M

Route to Camp 1 5500M. 5 - 7 hours

As you set off from the base camp, your first challenge looms large, appearing tall, mean, and quite intimidating. Yet, once you begin the climb, it's not as daunting as it seems!

If this camp doesn't impress you, I'm not sure what will! 😎

Route to Camp 2 5500M - 5600M. 5- 6 hours

Ascending through snow and ice starts now! The adventure kicks off with a steep uphill climb from camp 1 to camp 2.

Camp 2 is positioned strategically on a compact, level area of the mountain, offering protection from the robust winds that gust from the north and northeast sides. From this vantage point, the impressive Manaslu at 8163 meters looms in the distant backdrop, flanked by the colossal Annapurna II. The panoramic vista extends extensively to the left, showcasing the Himchuli and other Chulu ranges. It's a stroke of luck to bivouac at this spot; the vistas here continually improve, with clouds often swirling below, adding a dramatic flair to this already stunning landscape.

Route to Camp 3 (6 - 7 hours)

Once again, the day kicks off with an exhilarating ascent, scaling the steep headwall immediately upon departure from camp 2. A substantial crevasse looms ahead after navigating the headwall, followed by a sprawling plateau of flat snow leading to camp 3. Careful navigation and caution are key on this route.

The thrilling culmination of challenges awaits as you navigate the final daunting terrain towards the summit.

Route to the true Summit of Annapurna IV 7525M to BC. 16 - 18 hours

An early start marks the beginning of the journey towards the ultimate goal. It'll be an arduous and audacious day, braving the elements and keeping an eye on the winds.

The summit stands narrow, fully exposing the Annapurna massif on all sides. Views extend to Machhapucchre (Fishtail), Manaslu at 8163 meters, and the sprawling Pokhara valley, all visible from this vantage point.

Inquire about Annapurna IV

ANNAPURNA IV LINK

Are you planning the Annapurna IV 7525M expedition as your next big mountaineering adventure? We have departures every year (spring/autumn). For more information on our Annapurna IV expedition or any of our other expeditions do check out our website.

(Call/WhatsApp) - +1 347-476-9547 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

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Which 7000M mountain peak should I climb? A Guide to Choosing Your next 7000M High-Altitude Adventure: Namas Adventure

July 28, 2023

WHICH 7000M MOUNTAIN PEAK SHOULD I CLIMB?

A GUIDE TO CHOOSING YOUR NEXT 7000M+ HIGH-ALTITUDE expedition

With so many amazing options available, it can be difficult to decide which mountain to choose for your next high-altitude expedition. In this blog post, we will provide you with valuable insights and considerations to help you make an informed decision and select the perfect 7000M mountain peak for your climbing aspirations.

The first and foremost is to check your past climbing Experience and Skill Level: Before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, it is crucial to assess your climbing experience and skill level. While 7000M peaks are generally less demanding than their 8000M counterparts, they still require a solid foundation of mountaineering skills and high-altitude experience. Consider factors such as previous high-altitude climbs, technical proficiency, and your ability to adapt to extreme environments.

Easy and Safe 7000er

Himlung Himal 7126M (Highest summit success in Nepal)

Himlung Himal (7126M) is a classic Himalayan expedition known for being one of the easiest and least technical 7000 meter+ mountains to climb (although it should not be underestimated). It has the highest recorded summit success rate (according to the Himalayan Database) compared to other peaks. Himlung Himal is also renowned as one of the safest climbable peaks with fewer technical difficulties. It is located in the same Himalayan belt as other giants like Manaslu and the Annapurna massif, so you can expect stunning views of the surrounding peaks from the summit.

Expedition Highlights

Elevation: 7126M
Difficulty: 4/PD (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 2 to 3 high camps
15 days of climbing
Considered one of the safest, easiest 7000M+ expeditions with the highest recorded summit success in Nepal

HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION

Mt. Nun 7135M (india - BEST FOR SUMMER EXPEDITION)

Mount Nun is the preeminent peak within the Nun Kun massif situated in the mighty Zanskar Range of the Indian Himalayas. This iconic mountain range, nestled in the Leh Ladakh region, contains two eminent peaks: the lofty Mount Nun at 7,135 meters, the highest summit in the area, and its slightly shorter companion, Mount Kun at 7,077 meters.

A successful ascent of Mount Nun presents ambitious climbers with a prime opportunity to garner invaluable high-altitude mountaineering skills on a classic Himalayan expedition, paving the way for future ascents of even more demanding 7,500 meter or 8,000 meter giants.

Expedition Highlights

Elevation: 7135M
Difficulty: AD/4 (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
12 days of climbing
Can be your first 7000M climb

MT NUN EXPEDITION

Spantik 7027m (Pakistan - BEST FOR SUMMER EXPEDITION)

Spantik 7027M, the majestic peak in the Karakoram region. This expedition is considered straightforward and less technical and offers an excellent opportunity to challenge yourself at altitudes above 7,000 meters while immersing in the beauty of the mountain area, its warm-hearted people, and its captivating culture. With a well-organized expedition, Spantik provides an affordable and rewarding climbing experience, making it a fantastic choice for mountaineers seeking both adventure and cultural exploration. Don't miss the chance to conquer this stunning peak and create unforgettable memories in the enchanting Karakoram.

Expedition Highlights

Elevation: 7027 M
Difficulty: AD/4 (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
15 days of climbing
Can be your first 7000M climb

Spantik Expedition - Inquire

Baruntse 7129M (Slightly technical)

Baruntse Peak is another attainable 7,000-meter summit in the Himalayas. This expedition is slightly technical and challenging climb compared to the above-mentioned expeditions. Situated amongst giants like Lhotse, and Makalu, Baruntse lies embedded within a stunning panorama of jagged Himalayan peaks. Its accessibility provides climbers with an unparalleled opportunity to develop critical mountaineering skills and high-altitude experience to prepare for future ascents of more demanding summits.

Expedition Highlights

Elevation: 7129M
Difficulty: 4/PD (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 2 to 3 high camps
15 days of climbing
Safe, challenging, and technical sections. Definitely an epic climb

Baruntse Expedition

Lenin Peak 7134M (Kyrgyzstan- Summer Expedition)

Towering at 7,134 meters along the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, Lenin Peak presents an excellent introduction to high-altitude mountaineering above 7,000 meters. Considered one of the more straightforward ascents at this elevation range, it serves as ideal preparation for attempting the Himalayan giants to 7500M or 8,000-meter peaks.

Also named Pik Lenin, this expedition begins in the ancient city of Osh in southern Kyrgyzstan, which radiates a palpable sense of history as the country's second-largest city and oldest continuously inhabited settlement. Home to approximately 250,000 residents, Osh's diverse blend of Uzbeks, Kyrgyz, Russians, and Tajiks infuses the architecture, language, and cuisine with rich cultural elements. Much as it did 3,000 years ago along the Silk Road, Osh still serves as a thriving trading hub connecting Central Asia and China. This gateway city marks the start of the journey before venturing into the high mountains.

Expedition Highlights

Elevation: 7134M
Preparatory climb for 7500M or lower 8000M peaks

Difficulty: AD/ 4 (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
15 days of climbing
Can be your first 7000M+ expedition

Lenin Peak - Inquiry

Technical and Challenging 7000er

Annapurna IV 7525M (Prepare for Everest)

Annapurna IV presents the ideal mountaineering objective for climbers seeking a balance of challenge and relative safety. Part of the mighty Annapurna range in Nepal, Annapurna IV lies between the taller Annapurna II (7,937m) to the west and Annapurna III (7,555m) to the east. The established route up Annapurna IV poses fewer objective hazards and is a relatively semi-technical ascent compared to its neighbors. Of the Annapurna peaks (I, II, III, IV, and Gangapurna), Annapurna IV is considered the least dangerous and technically demanding. Despite its accessible profile, this mountain sees far less traffic than other regional giants. For climbers pursuing a balance of adventure and prudent risk, Annapurna IV stands out as an excellent choice.

Expedition Highlights

Elevation: 7525M
Preparatory climb for Everest or other 8000M expedition

Difficulty: 4/D (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
21 days of climbing
Challenging, and technical expedition. Should not be your first 7000er climb.

Annapurna IV 7525M

Pumori 7161m

Mount Pumori will test climbers' endurance and technical skills, though the rewards overwhelmingly compensate for the required effort. Part of the Mahalangur Himal section of the Himalayan range, Pumori lies between the Nangpa La Pass and Arun River, surrounded by giants like Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. Considered a technically demanding expedition, Pumori requires climbers to have sufficient high-altitude experience and fitness. Due to exposed ridges and several avalanche-prone sections, small groups are ill-advised. Instead, an adequately sized team is needed to establish ropes and navigate tricky passages. With relentless steepness testing both physical and mental reserves, Pumori lures only the most determined risk-takers equipped with seasoned technical expertise. For those up for the challenge, Pumori promises immense satisfaction in conquering one of the region's toughest peaks.

Expedition Highlights

Elevation: 7161M
Preparatory climb for Everest or other 8000M expedition
Difficulty: 4/E (Alpine grade link)
High camps: 3 high camps
18 - 20 days of climbing
Challenging, and technical expedition. Should not be your first 7000er climb.

With careful evaluation of your skills, experience, risk tolerance, and personal goals, you can identify the ideal 7000M mountain for your next high-altitude expedition. Do your research, inquire and consult with our team, build up your fitness, prepare your gear, and make sure you join a responsible, skilled team. The thrills of standing atop one of these iconic peaks make all the rigorous training and planning worthwhile. Whichever incredible mountain you choose, cherish and be prepared for a life-changing adventure amid some of the most dramatic landscapes on Earth. With the right preparation and positive mindset, you will return home with memories to last a lifetime.

Let’s welcome you to our yearly departure team and scale to the top of these mountains while making this an epic experience of a lifetime. Our team is ready to hear from you and help you achieve your dream adventure.

Namas Adventure Team

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Everything you need to know about Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition - Namas Adventure

July 20, 2023

Everything you need to know about

Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition

Climbing Cho Oyu (8201m), the world's 6th highest peak, is an incredible opportunity to stand atop one of the “easier” 8000m giants. Located on the Nepal-Tibet border, Cho Oyu offers stunning Himalayan scenery and a chance to glimpse life in Tibet. This complete guide provides everything you need to know to prepare for and succeed on the mighty Cho Oyu.

1. When is the best time to climb Cho Oyu?

The autumn months of September-October are an ideal season for climbing Cho Oyu.

2. How much does the Cho Oyu expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?

Our Cho Oyu expedition is priced at USD $33,000 per person and includes premium, high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. We prioritize safety by implementing a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio with additional Sherpa guides for high-altitude logistics/ rescue missions and the use of 4 X personal supplemental oxygen (highest in the industry). Our team is dedicated to ensuring your safety and making sure your expedition runs smoothly. As a company, we are committed to our core values of responsibility, ethics, and sustainability. With our team, climbers can focus solely on their climbing holiday and the fun times ahead without any worries.

List of what’s included in your booking.

IFMGA/NMA certified Guide leader
$1000 Individual tip pool. (This is not a summit bonus tip) The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. Additional Supporting Guides will be allocated based on climbing members’ number.
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)
All trekking and climbing permits (Chinese government climbing permits)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trail head. Tibet and Kathmandu
Flights Lhasha - Kathmandu - Lhasha
Expedition tents, single tents in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
4 Oxygen Bottles
60 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

4. The first ascent of Cho Oyu 8201M?

Cho Oyu was first summited in 1954 by a small Austrian/Tibetan expedition.

5. How many climbing routes are there to climb Cho Oyu?

There are two main commercial expedition routes in Cho Oyu. The west ridge route is the choice for most expedition companies.

6. Why is Cho Oyu considered easy and safest 8000M expedition?

Cho Oyu stands out as one of the easier and safer 8000m peaks, mainly attributed to its manageable technical difficulty and a camping/climbing route that is less susceptible to avalanches. The post-monsoon period in this region of Tibet-Nepal offers relatively stable weather conditions, resulting in a historically lower fatality rate compared to other peaks above 8000m. The presence of skilled Sherpa guides and the Nepalese climbing system further enhance the safety measures associated with Cho Oyu for high-altitude expeditions.

7. What level of experience and qualifications are required for climbers to safely participate in the Cho Oyu 8201M expedition? Additionally, is it necessary for climbers to be accompanied by professional guides?

Experiences - To participate in the Cho Oyu expedition, a minimum requirement is previous high-altitude climbing experience, including at least two 6000-meter peaks and one 7000-meter peak, such as Himlung Himal, Baruntse, Mt. Nun, or Spantik. It is a must for climbers to have knowledge and experience of long-duration hiking (10+ hours) and climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, as well as being comfortable and proficient in using fixed ropes on steep and exposed sections. Additionally, it is important for climbers to have a good understanding of climbing gear, basic rope techniques, and the ability to handle cold and windy conditions. Unlike other places, rules in Tibets are strict and clients will have to present proof of certification for the pre-requirements before climbing 8000M peaks.

For those with intermediate experience levels and no previous 7000M+ climbing experience, we highly recommend gaining more experience before attempting this peak. However, for those with deep knowledge of climbing technical peaks and are seasonal alpine climbers, Cho Oyu may be considered. In Tibet, it is essential to experience the local way of doing things, and cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, and understand their perspective on climbing big mountains. This will give you a wider understanding of the climbing culture in Nepal.

8. What is the number of high camps established for the Cho Oyu expedition?

We will strategically plan 3-4 high camps during our Cho Oyu expedition mission.

Route: West Ridge, Tibet

Advanced Base Camp (5800M/18372FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 1 (6500M/21,325FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 2 (7100M/3,294FT)
Cho Oyu Camp 3 (7400M/24278FT)
Cho Oyu Summit (8201M/27765FT) 12 - 16hrs

9. What is the recommended itinerary for proper acclimatization during the Cho Oyu expedition?

As with all high-altitude expeditions, the principle of "climb high, sleep low" applies. Progressing slowly and steadily is key when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. During Cho Oyu expedition, we will conduct 2 rotations between Advanced Base Camp, Camp 1, 2, and 3. Proper acclimatization is crucial in order to ensure that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When undertaking a high-altitude climbing adventure, taking a slow and steady approach is essential for success. Our itineraries have been carefully crafted by our guides, who possess years of climbing and guiding experience.

10. What level of training and experience is required for the Cho Oyu expedition climb? Can you provide guidance on an appropriate training plan?

When planning any high-altitude expeditions, it is essential to be in optimal physical shape, and the Cho Oyu expedition is no exception. A sustained, disciplined training plan should be implemented. You can either follow the training template provided or hire a personal trainer (either online or in-person) to prepare yourself for this expedition. This includes mimicking walking on step-up ladders, similar to those encountered when climbing steep faces at high altitudes.

We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (50-60Km+) weekly or cycling (100-160Km weekly), and hiking long distances (8 -12 hours) with elevation gain while carrying 15-20kg weights are some of the suggested training methods. Additionally, strength-building and muscle endurance training are crucial. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workouts for this purpose. We advise scheduling your training at least 6-12 months prior to your climbing departure date. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

Download training template

11. How hard is Cho Oyu How difficult is the climb?

Cho Oyu expedition is graded at D+ /4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).

It is crucial to emphasize that being in peak physical condition is of the utmost importance before embarking on the expedition. The Cho Oyu climb will require 35-42 days of alpine climbing and will test your physical and mental endurance, fitness, and awareness.

This expedition takes place in a remote location and we have a limited team size of Max 10 climbers.

12. Is this expedition suitable as a preparation for my eventual climb of Mount Everest?

Yes, we strongly recommend that those planning to climb Mount Everest consider the Cho Oyu expedition as a perfect preparatory climb. With the increasing crowd and safety concerns on the Manaslu 8163M expedition, Cho Oyu offers a suitable alternative with a similar level of difficulty and less objective dangers compared to Manaslu (Avalanches especially and the true summit of Manaslu are tougher & technical compared to Cho Oyu)

13. Recommended clothing and gear - boot required for Cho Oyu expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gear for Cho Oyu climb?

Proper gear selection is essential for a successful climb. We highly recommend investing in high-quality gear and clothing and paying attention to layering properly for optimal comfort. As temperatures can drop to extreme lows of -20C/-40C at night, it is imperative that you are well-equipped to stay warm. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Regarding gear rental in Nepal, we do not recommend it. We understand that purchasing all the necessary gear can be costly, but it is worth the investment in the long run. It is preferable to rent gear from reputable adventure gear companies such as North Face, Mountain Hardware, and Kailas in your home city, rather than relying on potentially subpar gear available for rental in Nepal.

Recommended boots for Cho Oyu Expedition

scarpa_0009_87401-500-1_02_PHA-800-HD_Blk-Ora_Phantom 8000 HD _ Black - Bright Orange.jpg

mig1260-7487-chaussures-hautes-bleu-marine-everest-summit-gtx (1).jpg

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

More 8000M boots link here (other media article)

14. What types of foods are available during Cho Oyu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition recommendation.

During the Cho Oyu Expedition, a variety of foods will be available to meet the nutritional needs of climbers. At lower elevations, meals will be prepared in local tea houses, while at base camp, our dedicated kitchen staff will provide nourishing and delicious meals. As we ascend to higher altitudes, the body may naturally resist the desire to eat, but it is important to maintain a proper diet and hydration for optimal performance.

Our team will provide packed dried meals as an alternative option and recommend a daily water intake of 4-6 liters. It's essential to stay hydrated throughout the expedition, and we suggest bringing hydration tablets or filtration bottles to ensure clean water is readily available. Additionally, we advise avoiding smoking and alcohol consumption while on the expedition as it can negatively impact performance and acclimatization.

Our guiding leaders may be seen smoking or drinking, but please note that they are experienced professionals and have adapted to these environments differently than recreational climbers.

15. Recommended insurance cover for Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?

It is essential to have comprehensive travel, evacuation, and medical insurance coverage before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, including Cho Oyu. Unexpected events such as accidents, illnesses, or emergency evacuation can occur at any time, and it is crucial to be prepared for such situations. Our team strongly recommends purchasing insurance that includes coverage for emergency evacuation, search and rescue, and medical expenses. Please make sure to review your insurance policy and ensure that it covers all the activities you will be undertaking during the expedition. We are always here to help you with the process of purchasing or checking your insurance policy. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

We recommend considering Global Rescue as your insurance provider, as they offer essential comprehensive coverage, which is crucial in the remote and challenging terrain of the Himalayas. Unfortunately, helicopter rescue is not possible in Tibet/China.

16. Next climbing goals after Cho Oyu Expedition?

Upon the successful completion of your Cho Oyu 8201M expedition, you will have gained valuable experience and developed the necessary skills to tackle even greater climbing challenges. We recommend considering an ascent of one of the 8000m peaks, such as Mount Everest 8848M, Mt Everest Express, Makalu 8563M, G2 8035M, or other technically challenging peaks such as Ama Dablam 6812M or Express climb, Cholatse 6440M, or any other peaks around the world as your next climbing goal. Our team can provide guidance and recommendations for these expeditions and help you make your next climbing adventure a reality.

A. Mt. Everest 8848.48 Expedition or Mt. Everest Express (30 Days or less)

The Mt. Everest expedition or Mt. Everest Express expedition is not only one of the most popular but also one of the most well-facilitated expeditions. Upon successfully completing your Cho Oyu climb, climbers should be ready to plan their dream climb to the highest peak in the world. MT. Everest 8848M

MT.EVEREST EXPEDITION

Mt. Everest express - 30 days

A. Ama Dablam 6819M or Ama Dablam Express (14 days)

Ama Dablam 6810M is a technically demanding climbing goal for many mountaineers, known for its stunning beauty and exposed nature in the Everest region. It is a highly sought-after mountain to climb among mountaineering enthusiasts. We recommend considering climbing Ama Dablam before or after a larger expedition, such as Mount Everest, as it presents a significant mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is widely considered a "must-do" for alpinists and mountaineers.

Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Express (14 days)

C. Gasherbrum 1 or 2 (G1 or G2 Expedition)

Climb G2 with our team from 2024 Summer.

Don't hesitate to reach out to us with any further questions. You can ask us in the comments below or send an email to bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will respond to you as soon as possible. Remember to take care of yourself and to always strive for greatness. Challenge yourself, dare to do great things, and make your story one worth telling.

Namaste

Namas Adventure Team

Why Choose Cho Oyu as Your First 8000M Climb? Discover what Makes Cho Oyu the Safest and Easiest 8000M Expedition - Namas Adventure

July 19, 2023

Why Choose Cho Oyu as Your First 8000M Climb? Discover what makes Cho Oyu the Safest and Easiest 8000M Expedition.

In this blog article discover why climbing Cho Oyu (8201m), the world's 6th-highest mountain is considered one of the easier and safest 8000m peaks to climb:

Elevation - At 8,201m, Cho Oyu is in the lowest category of the 8000m peaks, so there is slightly less altitude to acclimatize to compared to giants like Everest (8,848m) or K2 (8,611m).
Standard Route - The normal West Ridge route is relatively straightforward, with no major technical sections or steep pitches. It involves mostly moderate to steep snow climbing.
Gradient - The slope gradients on the standard route don't exceed about 30 degrees, making it less steep than other major 8000ers.
Weather - Cho Oyu sees less severe weather compared to the peaks in the western Himalayas. The post-monsoon season has relatively stable weather.
Camps - There are only 3 camps from the Advanced base camp to the summit, limiting the amount of gear hauling required.
Sherpa Support - 1:1 Sherpa guide with additional Sherpa team for logistics support. Experienced Sherpa teams fix ropes and establish camps, providing crucial support.
Previous Experience mandatory checks- Most climbers tackle Cho Oyu after building experience on lower several 6000M and 7000m peaks first. The Chinese authorities are very strict when approving permits and only allow climbers with proof of a previous 7000M summit certificate to climb Cho Oyu.
Fatality Rate - Historically, Cho Oyu has had a lower death rate compared to other 8000ers. Proper preparation greatly minimizes risks.

In conclusion, Cho Oyu 8201M emerges as an attainable choice for climbers embarking on their first 8000m peak, thanks to its manageable technical difficulty, safely positioned higher camps, and the invaluable support of experienced Sherpa teams. While it offers a relatively lower fatality rate, it is crucial to approach Cho Oyu with the utmost respect and thorough training. Adequate preparation remains paramount to ensure a safe and successful climb.

Cho-Oyu 8188M

Are you ready to embark on your dream of climbing an 8000M peak with the lowest fatality rate? Look no further than our Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition. We pride ourselves on keeping our team small and agile, ensuring a high-quality experience focused on your safety and summit achievement. Join us for an unforgettable adventure filled with exhilaration and camaraderie as we conquer Cho Oyu together.

Namas Adventure / Expedition Team

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Climbing Baruntse 7129M Choosing the Right Route - Amphu Lhabtsa Pass 5800M or Mera Peak 6476M

June 14, 2023

Baruntse expedition 7129M. Climbing 7000M peak in Nepal

Climbing Baruntse 7129M

Choosing the Right Route - Amphu Lhabtsa Pass 5800M or Mera Peak 6476M

Climbing Baruntse 7129M is an exhilarating high-altitude Himalayan experience. At Namas, our team of experienced climbers and expedition leaders is here to guide you in making an informed decision about the route to choose. With more than 5 years of leading expeditions to Baruntse peak in this article, we will delve into the unique features, advantages, and considerations of climbing Baruntse via Amphu Lhabtsa Pass or Mera Peak, helping you make an informed choice.

Climbing Baruntse via Amphu Lhabtsa Pass

Baruntse expedition via Amphu Lhabtsa pass

The shorter 28-day itinerary offers an adventurous route via Khumbu & crossing over the Amphu Lhabtsa Pass at an elevation of 5800M. Here are some key highlights of this route:

Technical Challenge: Amphu Lhabtsa Pass is renowned as one of the most challenging passes in Nepal, demanding advanced climbing skills. Climbers will face zigzag glaciers, jumaring up the wall face, and scrambling/traversing rocky sections. The pass rewards climbers with breathtaking views of Imja Valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak, Ama Dablam, and Baruntse.

Fatigueness: The Amphu Lhabtsa Pass itinerary allows climbers to reach Baruntse Base Camp with less fatigue, as they will have acclimatized during the challenging pass crossing. This can be beneficial for overall performance and enjoyment during the climb.

Climbing Baruntse via Mera Peak

For those opting for the longer 35-day itinerary, Mera Peak 6476M serves as an acclimatization/training peak. Consider the following aspects of this route:

Acclimatization: Climbing Mera Peak allows for gradual acclimatization and improves climbing skills. While Mera Peak is non-technical, it still requires physical stamina and endurance. Climbers will spend a night at the high camp situated at 5800 meters and make an early morning summit push to the Mera Peak summit at 6476 meters.

Fatigue considerations: Climbers should be aware that the Mera Peak climb is physically demanding, and they may feel tired and fatigued by the time they reach Baruntse Base Camp. Additionally, the camps between Mera Peak and Baruntse Base Camp have limited facilities, including food options. Some climbers may require additional rest days after the Mera Peak climb at Kongma Dingma.

Conclusion

When choosing the route to climb Baruntse 7129M, consider the technical challenges, acclimatization advantages, and personal preferences. Climbing via Amphu Lhabtsa Pass offers a shorter, adventurous route, while climbing via Mera Peak provides acclimatization benefits. At Namas, we are here to support you on your journey, ensuring a safe and memorable climbing experience. Make an informed decision based on your skills, fitness level, and desire for adventure. Prepare for an extraordinary expedition that will test your limits and reward you with stunning views and a sense of accomplishment in conquering Baruntse's majestic peak.

Let’s go climb Baruntse. Live Your Story

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Annapurna IV 7525M expedition: Pre requisite experiences, fitness level, and skills requirement - Namas Adventure

June 13, 2023

Annapurna IV, Climbing high above camp 2

Annapurna iv 7525m Expedition

Experiences, Fitness, and Skills

What type of background and experience should one have before attempting Annapurna IV? What kind of climbing experience is considered sufficient for climbing Annapurna IV?

To undertake a successful ascent of Annapurna IV, individuals must possess a solid foundation in high-altitude mountaineering and alpine-style climbing techniques. This encompasses a high level of proficiency in skills such as scrambling, traversing, and navigating steep and treacherous rocky or icy terrain. Additionally, climbers should be well-versed in the safe and effective use of fixed-line ropes and climbing equipment.

Furthermore, being acclimatized to and comfortable with the cold and harsh mountain conditions prevalent at high altitudes is of utmost importance. It is strongly advised that climbers have prior experience scaling peaks of several 4000M to 6000M elevations, as well as at least one expedition to a 7000-meter that involves technical climbing. This level of experience is crucial for adequately preparing for the challenges inherent in an Annapurna IV expedition.

Climbers with a proven history of successful high-altitude ascents are welcome to consult and undergo an evaluation by our team to assess their eligibility for the Annapurna IV expedition. We encourage climbers to provide us with their climbing portfolio, fitness routines, and expedition plans for a thorough evaluation. While it is important to acknowledge that Annapurna IV is comparatively less prone to objective dangers, it is crucial to recognize that this expedition presents its own set of distinctive challenges and potential hazards. Therefore, it is vital for individuals to be well-prepared and possess the necessary confidence to effectively manage the specific skills and conditions associated with this undertaking.

What are the prerequisites for climbing Annapurna IV?

Two or more 6000M peaks and one 7000M expedition. Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Himlung Himal, Baruntse (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5.9/5.10 (not a must but a bonus)
Individuals considering an ascent of Annapurna IV should possess a robust background in high-altitude climbing, including a track record of successful climbs on several peaks ranging from 4000 to 6000 meters, as well as at least one 7000-meter peak that requires semi-technical to technical climbing skills. Many climbers opt to include Annapurna IV in their mountaineering journey as a stepping stone to more challenging 8000-meter peaks like Mount Everest or K2. It should be noted that Annapurna IV is not a widely popular climb, making it an ideal expedition for those seeking a remote and less crowded alpine climbing experience.

Fitness level - 4

Our Annapurna IV mountain expedition requires participants to meet a fitness level of 4, indicating an exceptional overall fitness level that encompasses the ability to adapt to and acclimatize in high-altitude environments. This entails possessing a high degree of endurance, strength, and mental resilience, as well as the capacity to endure prolonged exposure to extreme weather conditions. Participants must also be prepared for the physical demands of carrying loads weighing between 8-12 kilograms over multiple days. Given the challenging nature of this expedition, previous experience in high-altitude climbing is highly recommended to adequately prepare both mentally and physically for the altitude and terrain challenges.

Preparing for the demanding conditions of Annapurna IV necessitates significant dedication and effort. Achieving the required fitness level requires a focus on developing high levels of endurance and strength.

As a general indicator of the fitness level required, it is recommended that individuals be capable of running a half marathon to a marathon distance or cycling for 5-6 hours. For those who prefer hiking, being able to carry a load of 25 to 30 kilograms and hike for over 6 hours is a suitable benchmark. Completing a triathlon is also a strong indicator of being in peak physical condition. Improving one's VO2 max is crucial.

In addition, implementing a well-rounded strength and muscle endurance training routine is essential. This can be achieved through various approaches, such as engaging in cross-fit sessions, high-intensity interval training (HIIT) sessions, and kettlebell training. It is important to note that such training should be done under the guidance of a professional trainer or coach to ensure it is tailored to the individual's specific needs and goals.

Skills to be learned.

Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it really simple. So there are five basic skills you must - must know.

Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.
Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.
Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.
Multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5.9 to 5.10. Indoors or outdoors. (For reference check out our - Alpine grading)
Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.

Participating in an Annapurna IV (7525M) expedition requires a solid foundation of previous high-altitude climbing experience and a high level of physical fitness. In addition, possessing advanced skills such as rope techniques, outdoor lead climbing, and ice climbing can greatly enhance your chances of success. If you don't have access to mountains in your local area, focusing on indoor and outdoor rock climbing can help you maintain your skills and fitness levels.

While commercial expeditions typically handle logistics, it is still important to be prepared and have a good understanding of the technical aspects of the climb. Thanks to the expertise and competence of Sherpa guide leaders in Nepal, summit attempts on Annapurna IV have become more attainable. It's worth noting that this expedition is not popular among climbers, and only a few teams will be attempting to climb this mountain. Your team should be prepared to fix ropes to the summit, and all members participating in the expedition must be physically and mentally ready to put in the hard work and push themselves to successfully and safely ascend this 7500-meter peak.

It's important to recognize that the success of an expedition relies on the competence of all team members, from operational management to field guides. Once you have enrolled and possess the necessary skills and experience, it is crucial to commit to a physical training regimen to ensure you are fully prepared for the demands of the expedition.

Let’s go climbing. Live Your Story

ama dablam expedition

Are you ready to take on the magnificent Annapurna IV 7525M in Nepal? If you're eager to take on this breathtaking and demanding peak, and perhaps set your sights even higher on other majestic mountains, the passionate team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is here to make your dream come true! We are thrilled to offer our assistance and answer any questions you may have about the expedition. To get in touch, simply email us at bookings@namasadventure.com or give us a call/WhatsApp at +447446976060. Our dedicated team members are eagerly waiting to help you embark on this incredible journey.

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Everything you need to know about Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition - Namas Adventure

January 25, 2023

Everything you need to know about

Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition

1. When is the best time to climb Annapurna IV?

The spring months of March-May and autumn months of September-October are ideal seasons for climbing.

2. How much does the Annapurna IV expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?

Our Annapurna IV expedition is priced at USD $10,500 per person and includes premium, high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. We prioritize safety by implementing a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio and the use of personal supplemental oxygen. Our team is dedicated to ensuring your safety and making sure your expedition runs smoothly. As a company, we are committed to our core values of responsibility, ethics, and sustainability. With our team, climbers can focus solely on their climbing holiday and the fun times ahead without any worries.

List of what’s included in your booking.

IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
$500 Individual tip pool. The tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)
Namas Branded merchandise (800 or 900 Fill Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
1X Supplemental Oxygen system
4 start Arrival at hotel in Kathmandu. 2 nights upon arrival and 1 night before departure.
All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
40 kgs personal weight
Freezed dried meals (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc) upon request
Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipment
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/ GPS tracker
Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick-up and departure
Internal flights
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

4. The first ascent of Annapurna IV 7525M?

Annapurna IV was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge.

5. How many climbing routes are there to climb Annapurna IV?

There is one commercial expedition route. North West ridge of the mountain.

6. How many peaks are included in the Annapurna Massif? Additionally, what is the level of difficulty of climbing Annapurna IV (7525M) compared to other peaks in the Annapurna range, and is it considered a safe climb?

It is a fact that Annapurna I (8091M) holds the reputation of being one of the most challenging peaks to climb in the world, with a 29% fatality rate. It is important to note, however, that the Annapurna massif range comprises of 6 distinct peaks, each with its own level of difficulty and inherent risks.

Annapurna I (Main) 8091M/26545ft, Annapurna I (Central) 8051M/26414ft, Annapurna I (East) 8010M/26280ft
Annapurna II 7937M/26040ft
Annapurna III 7555M/24786ft
Annapurna IV 7525M/25688ft
Annapurna South 7219M/23684ft
Annapurna Fang 7647M/25089ft

When compared to the other peaks in the Annapurna massif, 🏔 Annapurna IV (7525M) is considered to be one of the less challenging peaks to climb, with relatively fewer objective hazards present.

7. What level of experience and qualifications are required for climbers to safely participate in the Annapurna IV expedition? Additionally, is it necessary for climbers to be accompanied by professional guides?

Experiences - To participate in the Annapurna IV expedition, a minimum requirement is previous high-altitude climbing experience, including at least two 6000-meter peaks and one easier 7000-meter peak, such as Himlung Himal, Mt. Nun, or Spantik. It is beneficial for climbers to have knowledge and experience of long-duration hiking (10+ hours) and climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces, as well as being comfortable and proficient in using fixed ropes on steep and exposed sections. Additionally, it is important for climbers to have a good understanding of climbing gear, basic rope techniques, and the ability to handle cold and windy conditions.

For those with intermediate experience levels and no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience, we highly recommend gaining more experience before attempting this peak. However, for those with deep knowledge of climbing technical peaks and are seasonal alpine climbers, Annapurna IV may be considered. In Nepal, it is essential to experience the local way of doing things, and cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, and understand their perspective on climbing big mountains. This will give you a wider understanding of the climbing culture in Nepal.

Professional Local Guides - As per Nepalese regulations, guides are mandatory for high-altitude peaks above 6000 meters. To obtain a permit for any major expedition, it must be done through a registered local company. However, for experienced climbers with a wealth of climbing experience, there may be routes that even local guides may not be familiar with. In such cases, it would be wise to consider having a guide as a backup option, even if you plan to explore new routes.

8. What is the number of high camps established for the Annapurna IV expedition?

We will strategically plan 3-4 high camps during our Annapurna IV expedition mission.

Advanced Base camp 5700M
Camp 1 (6200M)
Camp 2 (6650M)
Camp 3 (7470M - 7500M)
Camp 4 Probability

9. What is the recommended itinerary for proper acclimatization during the Annapurna IV expedition?

As with all high-altitude expeditions, the principle of "climb high, sleep low" applies. Progressing slowly and steadily is key when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. During the Annapurna IV expedition, we will conduct 2 rotations between Base Camp, Camp 1, 2, and 3. Proper acclimatization is crucial in order to ensure that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When undertaking a high-altitude climbing adventure, taking a slow and steady approach is essential for success. Our itineraries have been carefully crafted by our guides, who possess years of climbing and guiding experience.

10. What level of training and experience is required for the Annapurna IV expedition climb? Can you provide guidance on an appropriate training plan?

When planning any high-altitude expeditions, it is essential to be in optimal physical shape, and the Annapurna IV expedition is no exception. A sustained, disciplined training plan should be implemented. You can either follow the training template provided or hire a personal trainer (either online or in-person) to prepare yourself for this expedition. This includes mimicking walking on step-up ladders, similar to those encountered when climbing steep faces at high altitudes.

We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Aerobic exercises such as long-distance running (15km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (2-4 hours), and hiking long distances (8 -12 hours) with elevation gain while carrying 15-20kg weights are some of the suggested training methods. Additionally, strength-building and muscle endurance training are crucial. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workouts for this purpose. We advise scheduling your training at least 6-12 months prior to your climbing departure date. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

Personal trainer, ElevationfitnessLA - We have partnered with experienced personal trainers who can help you prepare for your mountaineering projects. One such trainer is Austin from Elevation Fitness LA (email). Austin is a personal trainer based in LA who has a passion for the outdoors and adventure. He has extensive experience in mountaineering, having completed expeditions such as Denali, Ama Dablam, peaks in the Alaska range, the Alps, and the Cascades, as well as being an avid rock climber. With 7 years of experience in the personal training industry, Austin is well-equipped to assist in your training and preparation for your upcoming climbing project.

Download training template

11. How hard is Annapurna IV? How difficult is it to climb Annapurna IV 7525M?

Annapurna IV expedition is graded at AD+ / 4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).

It is crucial to emphasize that being in peak physical condition is of the utmost importance before embarking on the expedition. The Annapurna IV climb will require 32 days of alpine climbing and will test your physical and mental endurance, fitness, and awareness.

This expedition takes place in a remote location and has a limited team size. If you are looking for a more secluded and less crowded climbing experience, this is the perfect expedition for you.

12. Is this expedition suitable as a preparation for my eventual climb of Mount Everest?

Yes, we strongly recommend that those planning to climb Mount Everest consider using the Annapurna IV expedition as a preparatory climb. With the increasing crowd and safety concerns on the Manaslu expedition, Annapurna IV offers a suitable alternative with a similar level of difficulty and at a significantly lower cost.

13. Recommended clothing and gear - boot required for Annapurna expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gear for Annapurna IV climb?

Recommended boots for Annapurna IV Expedition

More 8000M boots link here (other media article)

14. What types of foods are available during Annapurna IV Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition recommendation.

During the Annapurna IV Expedition, a variety of foods will be available to meet the nutritional needs of climbers. At lower elevations, meals will be prepared in local tea houses, while at base camp, our dedicated kitchen staff will provide nourishing and delicious meals. As we ascend to higher altitudes, the body may naturally resist the desire to eat, but it is important to maintain a proper diet and hydration for optimal performance.

Our guiding leaders may be seen smoking or drinking, but please note that they are experienced professionals and have adapted to these environments differently than recreational climbers.

15. Recommended insurance cover for Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?

It is essential to have comprehensive travel, evacuation, and medical insurance coverage before embarking on any high-altitude expedition, including Annapurna IV. Unexpected events such as accidents, illnesses, or emergency evacuation can occur at any time, and it is crucial to be prepared for such situations. Our team strongly recommends purchasing insurance that includes coverage for emergency evacuation, search and rescue, and medical expenses. Please make sure to review your insurance policy and ensure that it covers all the activities you will be undertaking during the expedition. We are always here to help you with the process of purchasing or checking your insurance policy. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

We recommend considering Global Rescue as your insurance provider, as they offer comprehensive coverage that includes helicopter evacuation, which is crucial in the remote and challenging terrain of the Himalayas.

It is important to note that in case of an emergency, our guides will assess your condition and determine the best course of action. However, if helicopter evacuation is deemed necessary, we will contact the insurance company and obtain approval before proceeding. Keep in mind that the cost of evacuation will be your responsibility, but it can be claimed back through your insurance once you return home. Our team in Kathmandu will also provide guidance on the necessary steps to take for a successful claim. It's worth mentioning that there was a scam of helicopter evacuation in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to ensure that the claims are genuine.

16. Next climbing goals after Annapurna IV Expedition?

Upon the successful completion of your Annapurna IV expedition, you will have gained valuable experience and developed the necessary skills to tackle even greater climbing challenges. We recommend considering an ascent of one of the 8000m peaks, such as Mount Everest 8848M, Manaslu 8163M, G2 8035M, or other technically challenging peaks such as Ama Dablam 6812M, Cholatse 6440M, or any other peaks around the world as your next climbing goal. Our team can provide guidance and recommendations for these expeditions and help you make your next climbing adventure a reality.

A. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition

B. Mt. Everest 8848.48 Expedition

The Mt. Everest expedition is not only one of the most popular, but also one of the most well-facilitated. Upon successfully completing your climb, we highly recommend exploring other equally challenging and adventurous expeditions that we can provide.

MT.EVEREST EXPEDITION

C. Gasherbrum 1 or 2 (G1 or G2 Expedition)

Climb G2 with our team from 2024 Summer.

Namaste

Namas Adventure Team

Ama Dablam Difficulty: How hard is Ama Dablam? - Namas Adventure

January 4, 2023

Ama Dablam spring expedition. Ama Dablam autumn expedition. Ama Dablam difficulty — Ama Dablam climbing route

How hard is Ama Dablam? How difficult is it to climb Ama Dablam?

Ama Dablam (6810 meters) is considered a challenging mountain to climb, with a technical route that involves ice climbing, rock climbing, and high-altitude mountaineering. This expedition requires technical climbing equipment such as ropes, ice axes, crampons, ice screws, and cams and jumars. The rock climbing on the mountain can be rated at 4.11 to 5.7 - 5.10 in difficulty, while ice climbing is rated at WI3 - 4. It is important for climbers to have previous experience in both rock and ice climbing, as well as experience at high altitudes.

Ama Dablam DIFFICULTY GRADE: TD AND FITNESS LEVEL: 5.

(ALPINE / FITNESS GRADE LINK)

This expedition will require a high level of physical fitness, technical skill, and experience. With years of taking clients of different levels to the mountain, we can say the climb is difficult but not impossible. It is a physically and mentally demanding climb. Climbers with a deeper level of rock climbing will find it easier to adapt to the technical challenges of this expedition. It is a must that climbers have some experience at high altitudes before attempting to climb Ama Dablam.

Experience the thrill of climbing Ama Dablam, Island Peak, or Lobuche East with our team of experts. We offer a personalized, 1:1 guided expedition service to ensure that you have all the support and resources you need to succeed on your climb. Our all-inclusive service takes care of all your needs, so you can focus on reaching the summit.

Inquire at bookings@namasadventure.com or simply fill out our inquiry form.

explore ama dablam expedition

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The Best Spring Climbing Expeditions in Nepal: 7000M, 7500M and 8000M - Namas Adventure

January 4, 2023

The Best Spring Climbing Expeditions in Nepal: 7000M, 7500M, and 8000M level

Spring is an excellent time for climbing in Nepal, as the weather is generally clear and stable, and the days are longer. There are several popular peaks to tackle during this season, including some of the highest and most challenging mountains in the world. If you're planning a spring climbing expedition in Nepal, here are a few options to consider and you could join us every spring

Mount Everest 8848M and Lhotse 8516M

This is the crown jewel of Nepal's climbing scene, and it's no surprise that many people flock to the country specifically to tackle this iconic peak. Spring is the best and the busiest season on Everest, as the weather is typically the most favorable. However, keep in mind that it's also the most crowded and competitive time to climb, as there are many other teams vying for the same summit window.

Lhotse is located just next to Everest and shares the same base camp and higher camps up to camp 3, so it's a convenient option for climbers who are already in the area. Many teams and our team offer Lhotse as an add-on or as a solo expedition. Lhotse is the fourth-highest peak in the world, and it offers a challenging and rewarding climb for those who are up to the task.

Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 to 60 days

EXPLORE EVEREST 8848M EXPEDITION

Makalu 8463M

Mt. Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world. Standing at 8463 meters tall, this peak is located in the northeast region of the country and sits on the border of Nepal and China. As one of the eight-thousanders, Makalu offers a more technically challenging climb than Mt. Everest and is known for its lack of crowds. The spring season is the best time to tackle Makalu, as the weather and snow conditions are generally favorable. With its distinctive pyramid shape and beautiful views, Makalu is a must-climb for those looking to avoid the crowds of the more popular Everest expedition or for those seeking a new challenge after climbing the world's highest peak.

Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 - 45 Days

explore Makalu 8463M expedition

Ama Dablam 6810M

Located in the Khumbu region of Nepal, Ama Dablam is a beautiful and technically challenging peak that is often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas." It's a popular choice for experienced climbers who are looking for a less crowded alternative to Everest, and the spring season offers the best weather for a successful ascent.

Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 21 - 30 Days

EXPLORE AMA DABLAM 6810M EXPEDITION

Annapurna I 8091M

Spring is one of the best times to take on the Annapurna massif range. Annapurna I is the tenth-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8019 meters tall. Located in north central Nepal, it is part of the Annapurna mountain range and is considered one of the most dangerous peaks to climb due to its steep and unpredictable terrain. Despite the risks, many climbers are drawn to Annapurna I each year due to its beautiful views and challenging routes

Level: Advanced to Pro. Time required: 30 - 45 days

Inquire Annapurna I 8091M Expedition

Annapurna IV 7525M

Annapurna IV (7525 meter) is a lesser-known peak in the Annapurna mountain range of Nepal, standing at 7525 meters tall. It is located between Annapurna II and III. Despite its relatively low elevation compared to other peaks in the range, Annapurna IV is a challenging climb due to its steep and rocky terrain but less technical and dangerous compared with the other Annapurna peaks.

Level: Intermediate + to Advanced. Time required: 25 - 33 Days

EXPLORE ANNAPURNA IV 7525M EXPEDITION

Himlung Himal 7126M

This is another exciting 7000M mountain peak to climb during the spring season. Comprised of bit snowy conditions when compared to the autumn season, Himlung Himal is an exciting peak to climb where there are fewer teams taking on the challenge of climbing during the spring. With the right amount of team members (4+) this 7000er is one of the safest and easiest objectives to take on.

Level: Intermedaite to +. Time required: 25 - 30 days

EXPLORE HIMLUNG HIMAL 7126M EXPEDITION

No matter which peak you choose, it's important to remember that climbing extreme and technical high-altitude peaks in the Himalayas is a serious undertaking that requires a high level of fitness, technical skill, and mental fortitude. Make sure you have the necessary experiences, mindset, and commitment to physical training before venturing into these daring endeavors. Namas expedition team can help you navigate the complexities of planning your expedition. With the right preparation and mindset, a spring climbing goals expedition in Nepal can be an unforgettable and life-changing experience.

Let’s go take on your spring climbing goals.

Namas Adventure Team

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Himlung Himal 7126M difficulty: Entry-level challenging 7000M mountain expedition - Namas Adventure

January 2, 2023

himlung himal summit ridge. Beginner 7000M peak expedition. Himlung Himal difficulty. — Near the summit of Himlung Himal 7126M

Himlung Himal 7126M Difficulty: entry-level challenging 7000M Mountain expedition

How hard is it to climb Himlung Himal? How difficult is it to climb Himlung Himal?

Climbing a Himlung Himal 7126M peak can be a physically and mentally demanding undertaking that requires a high level of physical fitness but not so much technical climbing skill. This 7000M+ peak expedition is classed as easy/safe (amongst the 7000M peak expeditions) and records one of the highest summit successes at the 7000er level. However, any climbers interested in this expedition should not underestimate the challenges this expedition poses.

Climbers who have a strong foundation of endurance and strength training, as well as experience with rock climbing, will be better prepared to handle the physical demands and technical challenges of this expedition.

Difficulty grade: AD+ and Fitness level: 4.

(Alpine / Fitness grade link)

The trek up to the base camp is a gradual several-day hike, slowly adapting and acclimatizing to the altitude and environment. Climbing high to Camp 1 involves a relatively easy 4-6 hour climb through glaciers, moraines, and small valleys. However, the traverse from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is more challenging, involving a steep and exposed scree slope that may be affected by snow conditions. The route to Camp 2 also involves traversing a glacier and avoiding crevasses, and fixed ropes will be used on the steeper and more exposed parts of the route. The risk of avalanches is generally low on both Camp 1 and Camp 2, but conditions should always be checked by the guide members.

The summit push on Himlung Himal is expected to be the longest and most challenging part of the climb. It involves a steep 45-50° vertical climb of 1100 meters in altitude, which is physically and mentally demanding. It is important for climbers to carefully plan their energy reserves not only for the ascent but also for the descent back to Camp 1, which can be a long and physically demanding journey. Your summit push day will be a 10 - 12hr+ journey.

Upon completing the Himlung Himal climb, you will have gained valuable experience that can prepare you for other challenging climbs in the Himalayas, such as Baruntse (7129 meters), Ama Dablam (6810 meters), Annapurna IV (7525 meters), or Manaslu (8163 meters). Our team is here to guide you through this exciting and remote expedition climbing journey.

Let’s climb. Go. Live Your Story

Explore Himlung Himal 7126M expedition

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Visual journey of Himlung Himal expedition - Namas Adventure

December 13, 2022

Climbing Himlung Himal is one of the most exhilarating experiences in the remote corner of the Nepal and Tibetan border. A 7000M+ mountain peak expedition with a picturesque visual and a challenging climb. Himlung Himal is considered one of the safest and easiest amongst the 7000er expedition with the highest summit records. If you are ever considering your first ever 7000M peak expedition that has fewer objective dangers then Himlung Himal should be your choice of the expedition.

In this blog post, we take you on a visual journey of the Himlung Himal climb. (We will update images with even better visuals). Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of Himlung Himal 7126M. Hopefully, this will inspire you to go climbing this amazing peak.

Journey begins in from the green and hilly regions

The journey begins with a 10-hour jeep ride from Kathmandu to Dharapani before we begin our trek. Also, meeting cheeky local faces is a welcoming sign. Images by - Vicente Di Loreto

Next 3 days of trekking from Dharapani - Mehta to the final settlement village of Phu. We trek deep down the gorge into the further corners of the Annapurna circuit. Images by - Vicente Di Loreto

Trekking via the beautiful and rugged gorge we arrive at Phu-Gaon 3800M. This is the final village settlement and we stop here for one additional day for acclimatization before heading out to the Himlung Himal base camp. Images by - Vicente Di Loreto

Himlung Himal base camp 4850M/15920FT. Home for the next 15 days of climbing.

Puja ceremony at Base camp. Namas Adventure team on an expedition (October 22)

Climbing high to Camp 1, 5400M/17716FT, and Camp 2, 6200M/20340FT. Rotations and camping at camp 1 and camp 2 before summit push to 7126M.

Photos @Adidoesultra (Link)

The final stretch to the summit, climbing via the ridge is a surreal experience. Summit push day is the longest and most challenging part of the entire expedition. Expect around 10+ hours of climbing to the summit and back to camp 1. Annapurna massif, Manaslu 8163M, and other 6000M peaks are visible from the summit of Himlung Himal. Images by - Vicente Di Loreto

Himlung Himal 7126M summit.

Himlung Himal Expedition

HIMLUNG DEPARTURES

Namas team departs to Himlung Himal every year. For more information on our Himlung Himal 7126M expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

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How to prepare for Himlung Himal climbing expedition? - Namas Adventure

July 29, 2022

How do I prepare to climb Himlung Himal 7126M expedition?

To climb any 7000M peaks, your pre-requisite previous experiences of climbing 4000M - 6500M+ semi/technical peaks are a must. ✅

Getting straight to the point, you can consider Himlung Himal as your first ever 7000M peak expedition. This will be a crucial extreme altitude climbing experience to progress into 8000M peaks or other technical peaks like Ama Dablam 6810M or Cholatse 6440M (more technical skills will also be needed, but we can make recommendations on that too). But yes, without a doubt Himlung Himal is a 7000M+ peak to climb if you are planning your first ever 7000er mountain peak. The climbing route at Himlung Himal is considerably safer and semi-technical in difficulty but like any high-altitude mountain expedition, you need to have a determined mindset, training preparation, and will to go on an adventure. Be ready for a long climb that will test you mentally and physically. Our team is there is motivate you and guide you to the summit (safely).

In this blog article, we will recommend prerequisite expeditions that will help you to be ready for Himlung Himal climb. This mountaineering experience is for everyone. (Yes, even if you have summited Everest, K2, or other tougher peaks). Mountain climbers are in love with the process of climbing, the journey, and not just the summits. If you are a novice/beginner climber, you are 1 or 2 climbing experiences (minimum) away, before taking on this beautiful climb. For experienced climbers; once you assess our recommendations below, should this expedition satisfy your next mountaineering adventure, then please get in touch with our team as we plan the Himlung Himal climb every year. (Spring/autumn).

Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition is for intermediate+ to pro experience level climbers. Now that you have an understanding of what it takes to climb this 7000M mountain, let’s start with our step-by-step expedition recommendations.

Step 1 (Novice level/Beginner Level) - Introduction to Mountaineering or Mera Peak 6476M

Yala Peak 5732M (Copy)

Mera Peak 6476M (Copy)

If you are an absolute beginner, who has never been to any previous high-altitude adventures trekking or climbing and you are inspired and dream of climbing extreme altitude mountains one day, then we can suggest these peaks, to begin with. With our team in Nepal, you can participate in our introductory expeditions to Introduction to Mountaineering - Yala Peak 5732M or Mera Peak 6476M to begin your mountaineering journey. This expedition’s objective will be to teach you the basics and fundamentals of mountaineering, test/expose yourself to any high-altitude environment on a non-technical peak climbing adventure in Nepal.

You will have to be in a good shape (run 5K, 2-3 times a week coupled with strength sessions) and upon completion, this experience will give you the confidence to climb other higher and semi-technical peaks.

Expedition Outcomes

Introduction and learn the basics of mountaineering
Learn the basics of mountaineering from certified local guides
High altitude experiences
Fun times in the mountains

Introduction to mountaineering

Step 2 (Beginner + to intermediate level) - Lobuche East & Island Peak

Lobuche East & Island Peak (Copy)

Khumbu Three Peak (Copy)

Chulu West 6419M (Copy)

Three Peak Peru (Copy)

At this level, you should have some kind of previous high altitude and exposure to mountain climbing. You have the understanding and experience of the fitness/mental level required when climbing high-altitude mountains. At this stage of beginner+ to intermediate level, you will further learn climbing at higher altitudes with some technical pitches. Meaning you will be re-introduced to all the previous basic climbing skills, adding further technical climbs. You will learn to navigate mixed rocky/snow/ice sections. Scramble/traverse on exposed sections and jumaring on the fixed-line rope to take on vertical sections of the mountains.

These skills are very necessary as you progress on your mountaineering journey and expeditions of this type will give you that extra confidence to take on other tougher and technically challenging peaks in the Himalayas or around the world. We recommend peaks such as Island Peak 6189M + Lobuche East 6019M, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Chulu West 6419M, and Three Peak Peru, expeditions for climbers at this stage. This expedition provides all the technical and physical challenges for climbers looking to progress at the Intermediate/+ level.

Expedition Outcomes

Introduction or Re-introduction to classic mountaineering climbs
Familiratisation with technical climbing gears
Climbing/scrambling/traversing in mixed section. (i.e- rock/ice/snow)
Experience climbing on exposed sections. (i.e. Ridge and couliors)
Jumaring in fixed-line to climb vertical sections.
Abseiling/Rappel several hundred feet down on fixed-line
Summits and small-scale expedition environment, tons of climbing fun

LOBUCHE EAST AND ISLAND PEAK

KHUMBU 3 PEAK

CHULU WEST 6419M

Step 3 (Intermediate to +/Advanced level)

Himlung Himal camp 2, 6200M — Himlung Himal Camp 2, 6200M

At this stage, you are all ready for Himlung Himal Expedition. Like any mountaineering adventure, Himlung Himal climbing should not be underestimated. The climbing routes are well exposed starting after 6300M, as we climb the final ridge section of the mountain to reach the summit. Summit day is the longest during the whole expedition. With the assistance of your guide and attached to a fixed rope you, will be climbing uphill on the ridge slope section for an extended period of time and that also means a lot of abseiling while descending down the mountain. You will have to be mentally/physically ready and your confidence/experience/patience is super key.

7000M expedition of this nature will test you. Your previous knowledge of climbing/traversing/abseiling in the exposed mixed section will be put to further test. There will be two high alpine camps and colder/longer days at higher altitudes. You are constantly exposed to the forces of nature and challenged mentally/physically for an extended period of time compared to your previous expeditions. The climbing route is faced on the west side, hence the sun only hits the slopes in the later part of the day, resulting in a colder climbing condition.

The final summit push day will be longer, more demanding, tougher, technically, physically, and mentally challenging than your previous camps. You will also have to learn how to co-operate as a team, there may be some weak links in the team so you will have to adjust, and understand how grouped expedition runs, allowing everyone to achieve the same goal of summiting a 7000M peak.

Expedition outcomes

Developing climbing skills at 7000M level.
Understanding of full expedition setups
Climbing/scrambling/traversing in mixed section. (i.e- rock/ice/snow) at higher altitudes above 6000M.
Longer exposure to climbing on exposed sections. (i.e. 6300M steep ridge to the summit)
Jumaring in fixed-line to climb vertical sections.
Abseiling/Rappel in longer and exposed ridge sections.
Testing your physical and mental ability and pure grit at extreme altitudes.
Summits and climbing moments at 7000M level

Bonus - Step 2. 1 even 8000ers or Pro level climbers (Grades TD+)

This is a bonus step. Many experienced climbers are attracted to the remoteness and challenge of climbing Himlung Himal. Even after completing 8000er peaks like Everest, Manaslu, Makalu, K2, and Ama Dablam climbers return to enjoy the climb at this 7000M peak. So if you have done 8000M peaks then you are 100% qualified for HH expedition. You will already have an understanding of big mountain expeditions and what it takes to climb challenging mountains.

Will this Himlung Himal 7126M expedition help me to climb 8000M mountain peaks?

Most certainly YES. Many climbers skip this crucial experience of climbing, experiencing, and testing themselves at 7000M+ extreme altitudes. No amount of reading knowledge surpasses your personal experiences. Also, the benefit of climbing 7000M is that not only does it challenge you to prepare for 8000M peaks like Manaslu 8163M or Broad Peak 8051M but its charm is in its remoteness and not many climbers are there to attempt the climb. So, you preety much have the whole of the mountain to your group or let’s say you can avoid the traffic.

Himlung Himal expedition is a very achievable mountaineering objective so the question remains. Are you ready for this Himalayan adventure?

Planning to climb Himlung Himal 7126M or simply a 7000M peak? You do not have the right experiences or need help preparing for 7000M climbs? Our team is here to understand your goals and help you plan strategically with the right experiences. Please go through our Alpine /fitness grades (link) to understand the difficulty and climbing grades of Himlung Himal and other peaks. We hope the guidance and suggestion on this blog post have helped you to have an understanding of what it takes to climb this amazing 7000M peak. There are a lot of other factors when climbing any extremely high altitude semi-technical peaks in the Himalayas. Our team can help you prepare in the best way gaining the right experience to complete your dream of climbing Himlung Himal 7126M peak.

HIMLUNG HIMAL

A 7000er is a beautiful climb that will remain in your memories forever. Let’s go and climb this remote peak in the Shadow of Manaslu and Annapurna massif ranges.

Namas Adventure Team

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How to prepare for Baruntse climbing expedition? - Namas Adventure

July 21, 2022

How do I prepare to climb Baruntse 7129m expedition?

Planning your next 7000er expedition to Baruntse 7129M Peak? Your pre-requisite previous experiences of climbing 4000M - 6500M+ semi/technical peaks are a must. The climbing route in Baruntse is considerably safer and semi-technical in difficulty but like any high-altitude mountain expedition, you need to have a well-rehearsed understanding and the right experiences. The major technical crux is at the 6900M ridge leading to the summit. Be ready for an exposed climb.

In this blog article, we will recommend prerequisite expeditions that will help you to be ready for the Baruntse expedition. The journey of climbing Baruntse peak is for everyone. (Yes, even if you have summited Everest, K2, or other tougher peaks). Mountain climbers are in love with the process of climbing, the journey, and not just the summits. If you are a novice/beginner climber, you are a few years and expeditions away before taking on this amazing peak. For experienced climbers, once you assess our recommendations below, should this expedition satisfy your next mountaineering adventure, then please get in touch with our team as we plan the Baruntse climb every year. (Spring/autumn).

Baruntse Expedition is for intermediate+ to pro experience level climbers. Now you know what it takes to climb this 7000M mountain, let’s start with our step-by-step expedition recommendations.

Step 1 (Novice level to Beginner Level)

If you are an absolute beginner who has never been to any previous high-altitude adventures trekking or climbing and somehow you are inspired and dream of climbing Baruntse one day, then we can suggest these peaks, to begin with. With our team in Nepal, you can participate in our introductory expeditions to Introduction to Mountaineering - Yala Peak 5732M or Mera Peak 6476M to begin your mountaineering journey. This expedition’s objective will be to teach you the basics and fundamentals of mountaineering, test/expose yourself to any high-altitude environment on a non-technical peak climbing adventure in Nepal or around the world. You will have to be in a good shape (run 5K, 2-3 times a week coupled with strength sessions) and upon completion, this experience will give you the confidence to climb other higher and semi-technical peaks.

Expedition Outcomes

Introduction and learn the basics of mountaineering
Learn the basics or mountaineering from certified local guides
High altitude experiences
Fun times in the mountains

Yala Peak 5732M

Mera Peak 6476M

Introduction to mountaineering

Step 2 (Beginner to intermediate level) Lobuche East & Island Peak

Lobuche East & Island Peak

Khumbu Three Peak

Chulu West 6419M

Three Peak Peru

At this level, you should have been exposed to climbing in mountains. You have the understanding and experience on the fitness/mental level required during mountain expeditions. At the beginner to intermediate level, you will further learn climbing at high altitude with some technical pitch sections. Meaning you will be re-introduced to all the previous basic climbing skills adding further technical climbs. You will learn to navigate mixed rocky/snow/ice sections. Scrambling/traversing on exposed sections and jumaring on the fixed-line rope to take on vertical sections of the mountains.

These skills are very necessary as you progress on your mountaineering journey and expeditions of this type will give you that extra confidence to take on other tougher and technically challenging peaks in the Himalayas or around the world. We recommend peaks such as Island Peak 6189M + Lobuche East 6019M, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Chulu West 6419M, Three Peak Peru, expeditions for climbers at this stage. This expedition provides all the technical and physical challenges for climbers looking to progress at the Intermediate/+ level.

Expedition Outcomes

Introduction or Re-introduction to classic mountaineering climbs
Familiratisation with technical climbing gears
Climbing/scrambling/traversing in mixed section. (i.e- rock/ice/snow)
Experience climbing on exposed sections. (i.e. Ridge and couliors)
Jumaring in fixed-line to climb vertical sections.
Abseiling/Rappel several hundred feet down on fixed-line
Summits and small-scale expedition environment, tons of climbing fun

LOBUCHE EAST AND ISLAND PEAK

KHUMBU 3 PEAK

CHULU WEST 6419M

Step 3 (Intermediate to +/Advanced level)

At this stage, you are all ready for Baruntse 7129M Expedition. Like any mountaineering adventure, Baruntse climbing should not be underestimated. The climbing routes are well exposed starting around 6900M. With the assistance of your guide and attached to a fixed rope you will be climbing uphill on the ridge-cornice section for an extended period of time and lots of abseiling down. You will have to be mentally/physically ready and your confidence/experience is super key.

Expedition of this nature will test you, where all your previous knowledge of climbing/scrambling/traversing in the exposed mixed section will be put to test. There will be two high alpine camps and longer days at higher altitudes. You are constantly exposed to the forces of nature and mentally/physically you are challenged for an extended period of time compared to your previous expeditions. Baruntse expeditions will be longer, more demanding, tougher, and technically, physically, and mentally challenging than your previous climbs. You will also have to learn how to co-operate as a team, there may be some weak links in the team so you will have to adjust, and understand how grouped expedition runs, allowing everyone to achieve the same goal of summiting a 7000M peak, as well as developing their skills and experiences further to take on much more technically demanding and together peaks.

Expedition outcomes

Developing climbing skills at 7000M level.
Understanding of full expedition setups
Climbing/scrambling/traversing in mixed section. (i.e- rock/ice/snow) at higher altitudes above 6000M.
Longer exposure to climbing on exposed sections. (i.e. 6900M Ridge and steep couloirs)
Jumaring in fixed-line to climb vertical sections.
Abseiling/Rappel in longer and exposed ridge sections.
Testing your physical and mental ability and pure grit at extreme altitudes.
Summits and climbing moments at 7000M level

Bonus - Step 2. 1 even 8000ers or Pro level climbers (Grades TD+)

This is a bonus step. Many experienced climbers are attracted to the remoteness and challenge of climbing Baruntse Peak. Even after completing 8000er peaks like Everest, Manaslu, Makalu, K2, and Ama Dablam climbers return to enjoy the climb at this 7000M peak. So if you have done 8000M peaks then you are 100% qualified for Baruntse expedition. You will already have an understanding of big mountain expeditions and what it takes to climb challenging mountains.

Similarly, if you consider yourself a pro-level ice climber who can take on vertical 300M - 400M ice walls at higher altitudes (WI- 4 to WI- 5) then you are already set for Baruntse Expedition. Probably trying other challenging routes is more for climbers at this level. Why not try new projects and exciting high-altitude adventures?

Bonus for pro climbers - This peak has other 3 challenging routes so climbing those routes with your trusted partners is the one to explore.

Planning to climb Baruntse Peak 7129M? You do not have the right experiences or need help preparing for 7000M climbs? Our team is here to understand your goals and help you plan strategically with the right experiences. Please go through our Alpine /fitness grades (link) to understand the difficulty and climbing grades of Baruntse and other peaks. We hope the guidance and suggestion on this blog post have helped you to have an understanding of what it takes to climb Baruntse Peak. There are a lot of other factors when climbing any extremely high altitude technical peaks in the Himalayas. Our team can help you prepare in the best way gaining the right experience to complete your dream of climbing Baruntse 7129M peak.

BARUNTSE EXPEDITION

A 7000er is a beautiful climb that will remain in your memories forever. Let’s go and climb this amazing, remotely tucked 7000M+ mountain just between Makalu and Everest.

Namas Adventure Team

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When is the best time to climb Himlung Himal? Spring or Autumn? - Namas Adventure

June 8, 2022

When is the best time to climb HIMLUNG HIMAL 7126M?

Spring or Autumn?

Himlung Himal summit ridge — Climbing the final summit ridge at Himlung Himal 7126M

Himlung Himal is one of the best options to climb a 7000M+ peak in the remote corner of the Annapurna region. This 7000M peak expedition is classed as one of the most accessible, safest, semi-technical climbs with a higher summit success rate at 7000M peak mountain expeditions.

This peak is suitable to climb during both seasons but more success stories have been officially recorded of the autumn season’s climb. See our blog post on Baruntse or Himlung Himal for data from 2017 to 2020 (Link). For those interested in their first 7000M peak expeditions, we often get asked when is the best time to climb Himlung Himal?

With years of running expeditions and gathering local information passed on from our guides, who have been climbing year in and out, and collecting data from local databases, we would say it depends on your preference for climbing a mountain in different conditions. The great news is that Himlung Himal is suitable to climb during late spring and during early to mid-autumn. Here, we aim to lay out the conditions during spring and autumn so that you can choose to climb in the season you prefer.

What is the difference between Spring & Autumn climb? 🧗

There are fewer climbers during the spring season compared to the autumn season.
More snow during spring compared to autumn climbs
A high probability of wind speed picking up and extreme freezing temperature drop during late autumn.
The spring season sees a longer daylight duration compared to the autumn season.
Late April to May and Mid-September to October are the best time to climb.
Autumn sees more stable weather compared to the spring season.

In spring (late April - May) some of the winter snow will have melted in the mountains making it favorable to climb. Himlung Himal is known to have more snow (more so during spring), so do not underestimate the grit you will have to go through when climbing this peak. Weather can never be guaranteed in the mountains and you should expect some weather-related disturbances during your climb even though this is the best time to climb. If you are one who enjoys a bit of an extra challenge at extreme altitude peak climbing then spring expeditions might your pick.

Every mountain definitely tests your patience especially when things don’t go according to the plan and teams will have to improvise and wait out for climbable conditions. Spring sees fewer climbers than other peaks (Everest/Lhotse excluded) compared to autumn. When spring does open up with a clear weather window it is one of the best times to climb in Nepal. Oh! and not to forget you and your team will have the whole of the mountain to yourself. There is hardly any team in Himlung Himal during the spring season.

Autumn (Mid September - October) is the next time to climb Himlung Himal. A number of teams can be expected during this season compared to the spring season. After Manaslu 8163M teams are focused on either Himlung Himal 7129M, Baruntse 7129M, or Ama Dablam 6810M (the most teams). Guides have reported that as soon as November hits high winds start to pick up in the mountain and this has been the case for the past several years most summits have been in October or in the first week of November.

Himlung Himal has the highest summit records during the autumn season when compared amongst all the commercial 7000M+ expeditions that operate in Nepal. So under good to perfect conditions and the mountain not being super-difficult to climb, technically, Himlung Himal is the best 7000M+ expedition to climb during autumn.

Conclusion

Whichever is your preferred season, climbing Himlung Himal 7129 is an amazing 7000M+ expedition to be undertaken. Spring hosts fewer climbers when compared to autumn and conditions are suitable to climb during both seasons as mentioned above. If you are up for a challenge and prefer to see fewer climbers during the expedition then spring departures are for you. If you are comfortable with some amount of teams being in the mountains then autumn is still a great time to climb this 7000er peak. The thrill and challenges of climbing a remote Himalayan peak are guaranteed. You as a climber choose your climbing condition and the thrill of a great climbing experience is guaranteed. Either way, it is an amazing peak to climb and an accomplishment of a lifetime.

Let’s go, and climb Himlung Himal and other peaks around the world.

Go. Live Your Story.

Question.

Which season do you plan to climb Himlung Himal? Please comment below, we’d love to hear from you.

We organize Himlung Himal 7129M peak expedition every year during spring and during autumn. Planning to climb a 7000M+ peak one day? Whatever your climbing goal is drop us an email. Our team will be glad to have you onboard and together we shall achieve the summit and enjoy the climbing experience. Our team is here to assist and make your climb in the Himalayas an enjoyable, accessible, and comfortable one.

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2022 Mountaineering down suits for extreme altitude expeditions - Namas Adventure

June 2, 2022

Everest summit 8848M — Tendi Sherpa, at the top of the world. Athlete member of Himlai, wearing Himali 8000M down suit

2022 Mountaineering down suits for extreme altitude expeditions

If you have read our 2021 best Mountaineering down suits blog post (link) then those suits are still relevant and solid. There have not been major changes on the brands we listed but there are new players in the game and we believe it’s worth checking them out too. The reason, a lot of these suits performed and made it to the summits of Everest, Makalu, or other extremes/death zone altitude peaks. These new suits in the market can definitely be an option for you.

High-quality mountaineering down suits are a must in any extreme or death zone altitude expeditions. Highly specialized suits and only to be worn high in the Himalayas or during arctic crossing adventures. As you would have already spent a lot on your expedition, high-quality gears are another area where a lot of your expenses (About $7K - $10K USD) will be involved. Cutting corners is not an option, as you would not want to mess up your expedition just because you purchased poor-quality gears. You should be ready to face the weather at extremes during mountaineering adventures at 8000M, such as Mt. Everest, Makalu, Manaslu, or even at 7000M Baruntse, Himlung Himal, or Ama Dablam. Your down suit should be versatile to keep you warm, breathable, and easily adjustable. Below are some of the best 2022 down suits we can recommend for any climbers who are preparing for their 7000M - 8000M+ expeditions in the coming years.

HIMALI - 8000M DOWN SUITS

Himali may be the only brand that gives proper recognition to Nepalese guide members such as Tendi Sherpa, Mingma G (Winter K2 2021), Nima Tenji Sherpa, and Pasang Sherpa, Tashi Sherpa. (Pro-team page). It’s about time, Nepalese Sherpa gets other forms of recognition. Our Kudos to the Himali team 👏🏼

Himali 8000M down suit is designed to withstand the extreme conditions encountered on 8,000m peak expeditions. Built by using Pertex® QuantumPro ripstop nylon shell; it is tightly woven for durability and boasts a built-in microporous coating to repel precipitation. This Down Suit is packed with RDS certified 1000 fill-power HyperDry Down for ultimate premium lightweight warmth. With detail-focused their expedition suit features double chest zippers that work together to stop the wind, keeping this down suit highly functional without adding unneeded weight. The use of bright contrasting color designs helps you to stand out and be seen. It is truly built for the highest and harshest conditions on Earth.

1000 Fill Power RDS Certified HyperDRY™ Down
Pertex® Pro
Windproof & Waterproof
Integrated stuff sack in the left-hand pocket
Eco-DWR coating
Water Expanding Thread
Fleece Lined Front Pockets
YKK® Zippers
Internal Mesh Pockets
Large Hood Lip is designed to protect against wind and snow
Adjustable Wrist Cuffs
Fully Seam Taped

HIMALI - 8000M DOWN SUIT

Feathered friends - Expedition Down Suit

Made in Seattle, Washington Feathered friends have been in designing and making expedition down suits for 25 years. The best feature is their down suits are made to order and customizable (3-4 weeks). Their expedition Suit has been the down suit of choice by the world’s foremost mountain athletes and made it to the top of many 8,000m peaks and extensively in the North and South poles. Balancing warmth, weight, and durability, the Expedition Suit is built to defend against the earth’s worst conditions.

900+ Fill Goose Down
Waterproof, breathable Pertex® Shield® XT
Tuck-stitched/baffled construction
Dual zipper front entry
Drop seat rainbow zipper
Adjustable internal suspender system
Leg zips
Two internal water bottle pockets
Reinforced knees, seat, shoulders and sleeves
Articulated arms
Napoleon style zippered pockets
Two insulated chest cargo pockets
Fully adjustable hood
D-ring mitt clips
Velcro adjustable cuff

FF - Expedition suits

Millet - Trilogy MXP down suit

We have all seen Millet’s amazing 8000M expedition boots and it’s time we explore their 8000M down suits too. Made with 800 RDS goose down, and ultra thermal protection Millet’s trilogy MPX down suit is built to endure harsh conditions and is a robust expedition suit. The reinforced knees and seat are built to withstand abrasion whilst the functional zip systems including a back opening and two-way zipper at the front allow it to be worn during the full length of your expedition. With large zippers and an adjustable hood, this suit is both helmet and oxygen mask compatible.

High protection for expeditions. Knees and buttocks reinforced

Delivered with storage pouch
Inner support waistband
Front fastening with two-way zip, with a large underplacket for thermal protection
Zipped drop seat system under wide insulated flap
Adjustable at the waist and cuffs
Capacious helmet hood, adjustable, oxygen mask-compatible
2 large interior pockets
4 big zipped pockets
Cargo pocket on thigh

Millet - Trilogy mxp down suit

Everest outfit - 8000M Khang-ri Summit suit

Born, made/tested in Nepal, the Everest outfit Khang-RI summit suit is another expedition suit that was worn by Everest ice fall doctors and route setters. Kami Rita Sherpa (26th Everest Summitier, pictured above) who lead the 2022 spring Everest/Lhotse expedition team to fix the rope can vouch for this made in Nepal suit. If they pro’s can vouch for it and have been tested rigorously then we surely can have our confidence on this suit.

Details are not mentioned on their website. Please contact Everest Outfit for any details.

Everest Outfit - Khang-ri summit suit

Montane - Apex 8000 Down jacket and Salopettes

Montane expedition suits rather come in a 2 piece system. Their expedition jacket and salopettes have been worn by climbers like Jon Gupta to the summit of Everest. Designed for use in the most extreme environments on earth, the Apex 8000 Down Jacket has been developed in conjunction with expedition leading mountaineers and tested in high altitudes of 8000M+. Filled with 500g of the highest quality water-resistant goose down within a box walled construction. With the additional water-resistance of PrimaLoft® insulation in key areas, there is no compromise to functionality or features on this piece of survival gear.

Montane - Apex 8000 Down Jacket

Montane Apex 8000 Down Salopettes

The expedition suits listed are some of the additional down suits we believe interested climbers should explore after all it all comes down to personal preferences once we know that these suits have been tested and worn by climbers during their expedition. Expedition suits are not updated every year like other clothing lines. What should matter is its performance at extremes and you can be confident in the 2021 and 2022 expedition down suits that we have listed in our blogpost. After utility and then it comes down to the brand you prefer, colors, styles, sustainability values, and reviews.

Conclusion

Choose the best one that’s out there in the market. With adventure brands innovating and developing high-quality down suits you have more options now. We have listed (2021 and 2022) some of the most famous down suits out there in the market today. We cannot stress this enough quality (highest) matters. This is the last place on earth where you would not have adequate clothing gear. The game is extreme in the Himalayan altitudes so you’ll need the best of the best which are listed above. Also, we highly recommend you read our 2021 mountaineering down suit blogpost. (Link)

Which mountaineering down suit will you buy for your upcoming extreme expedition? Please comment below :)

Suit up. Climb on.

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Baruntse 7129M or Himlung Himal 7126M which 7000M+ mountain peak to climb? - Namas Adventure

June 1, 2022

Baruntse 7129M Summit 360 view, Namas team

Himlung Himal 7126M Summit

Baruntse 7129M or Himlung Himal 7126M which 7000M+ to climb?

Baruntse and Himlung Himal are perfect intermediate level and semi-technical peaks to climb at 7000M level in the Himalayas. Whatever your goals for climbing a 7000M extreme altitude expedition be, a stepping stone to an 8000er peak or climbing simply climbing a 7000er mountain peak, we highly recommend these two peak expeditions. (Putha Hiunchuli 7246M is another great option)

Both expeditions are not crowded as the 8000er expeditions (Everest/Lhotse during spring & Manaslu during autumn). Between the two expeditions, Himlung Himal has seen slightly higher climbers compared to Baruntse. (2021 Autumn, Himlung Himal 77 - 90 climbers & Baruntse 20 - 25 climbers). So, you can certain that there won’t be a crazy amount of climbers during your expedition. Having said that, it is always good to have some number of team/s in the mountain. You can never be sure when an event turns out wrong in the mountains. Every day we are playing with the forces of nature. Balance is key.

Learning from past summit data, the Himlung Himal expedition has a higher rate of summit success compared to the Baruntse peak expedition where there are several summits during the autumn season compared to 0 summits during the spring season (commercial route). Let’s look at the data from the previous 5 years of Baruntse 7129M and Himlung Himal 7126M successful summits. (commercial expeditions). Source “Himlayan Database”

Successful summits, BARUNTSE 7129M VS HIMLUNG HIMAL 7126M

Baruntse expedition spring summit success. Himlung himal summit success.

Baruntse expedition autumn summit success. Himlung Himal autumn summit succcess

So, coming to the question of which 7000M peak I should climb?

Our answer is it depends on your preference. What is it that you want from your adventure? If the summit goal is important to you (no mountain summit is 100% guaranteed) then Himlung Himal 7126M has a better odds of making it to the summit than Baruntse 7129M and is technically less challenging.

Situations change in the mountains, you never know when the next dangers pop out in the mountain, or the hazard that was there before may not even exist. Weather is a huge factor during your high camp days. You may have a clear window for the next 7+ days or it might be pouring snow and low visibility, windy for an extended period of time. Being safe and returning home safely should be your primary goal. Whatever the circumstances, you should be open to all possibilities of success or failure. What is guaranteed is a raw and thrilling Himalayan adventure in your life memoir.

With the insight data from previous years, if you would like to choose any of the 7000M expeditions mentioned above then our team at Namas Adventure is here to assist and welcome you to take on your adventure of climbing a 7000M mountain. We organize the expedition during both seasons. For yearly mountain updates and summit success, hazards in the mountains and to be part of our team on 7000M mountain expeditions or other mountaineering expeditions, please email us at - bookings@namasadventure.com. Our team will be there to assist you on your next adventure of a lifetime.

Let’s go and explore the 7000ers.

Live Your Story

Namas Adventure Team

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7000M - 8000M+ Expedition blogposts

Intermediate level 7000M+ Mountaineering Expeditions

KHAN TENGRI 7439M

Conclusion

Climbers Guide: Annapurna IV or Annapurna 4, 7525M

MOUNTAIN OVERVIEW

ABOUT THE MOUNTAIN

HISTORY

HOW TO GET HERE?

Route to Annapurna IV Base Camp 4800M - 4850M

Annapurna IV, Base Camp, 4800M - 4850M

Route to Camp 1 5500M. 5 - 7 hours

Camp 1, 5500M

Route to Camp 2, 5500M - 5600M. 5- 6 hours

Camp 2, 6500M

Route to Camp 3 (6 - 7 hours)

Camp 3, 6600M

Route to Camp 4, (6 - 8 hours)

true Summit of Annapurna IV 7525M to Camp 4 (7000M). 10-12 Hours

Watch full Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition video

A GUIDE TO CLIMBING AT LEAST ONE 8000M+ MOUNTAIN PEAK

So, which 8000M+ should you climb? Below are our recommendations

Expeditions Mentioned

Best 7000M+ peaks to climb in Nepal

1. Himlung Himal 7126M (Least difficult & least technical 7000er)

2. Baruntse Peak 7129M (intermediate level and demanding)

Climb - Baruntse with Mera Peak Expedition link﻿

3. Annapurna IV 7525M (advanced level, technical & physically demanding)

4. Tilicho Peak 7134M (intermediate level and remote climb)

5. Putha Hiunchuli 7246M (Dhaulagiri VII) (least difficult and least technical. Remote 7000er)

Climb - Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) Click here

6. Ama Dablam 6819M (advanced level & technical climb)

Visual journey

Route to Annapurna IV Base Camp 4800M - 4850M

Annapurna IV, Base Camp, 4800M - 4850M

Route to Camp 1 5500M. 5 - 7 hours

Route to Camp 2 5500M - 5600M. 5- 6 hours

Route to Camp 3 (6 - 7 hours)

Route to the true Summit of Annapurna IV 7525M to BC. 16 - 18 hours

WHICH 7000M MOUNTAIN PEAK SHOULD I CLIMB?

A GUIDE TO CHOOSING YOUR NEXT 7000M+ HIGH-ALTITUDE expedition

Easy and Safe 7000er

Technical and Challenging 7000er

Pumori 7161m

Everything you need to know about

Cho Oyu 8201m Expedition

1. When is the best time to climb Cho Oyu?

2. How much does the Cho Oyu expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?

4. The first ascent of Cho Oyu 8201M?

5. How many climbing routes are there to climb Cho Oyu?

6. Why is Cho Oyu considered easy and safest 8000M expedition?

7. What level of experience and qualifications are required for climbers to safely participate in the Cho Oyu 8201M expedition? Additionally, is it necessary for climbers to be accompanied by professional guides?

8. What is the number of high camps established for the Cho Oyu expedition?

9. What is the recommended itinerary for proper acclimatization during the Cho Oyu expedition?

10. What level of training and experience is required for the Cho Oyu expedition climb? Can you provide guidance on an appropriate training plan?

11. How hard is Cho Oyu How difficult is the climb?

12. Is this expedition suitable as a preparation for my eventual climb of Mount Everest?

13. Recommended clothing and gear - boot required for Cho Oyu expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gear for Cho Oyu climb?

14. What types of foods are available during Cho Oyu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition recommendation.

15. Recommended insurance cover for Cho Oyu 8201M Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance coverage?

16. Next climbing goals after Cho Oyu Expedition?

A. Mt. Everest 8848.48 Expedition or Mt. Everest Express (30 Days or less)

A. Ama Dablam 6819M or Ama Dablam Express (14 days)

C. Gasherbrum 1 or 2 (G1 or G2 Expedition)

Other related articles:

Why Choose Cho Oyu as Your First 8000M Climb? Discover what makes Cho Oyu the Safest and Easiest 8000M Expedition.

Climbing Baruntse 7129M

Choosing the Right Route - Amphu Lhabtsa Pass 5800M or Mera Peak 6476M

Climbing Baruntse via Amphu Lhabtsa Pass

Climbing Baruntse via Mera Peak

Conclusion

Annapurna iv 7525m Expedition

Experiences, Fitness, and Skills

What type of background and experience should one have before attempting Annapurna IV? What kind of climbing experience is considered sufficient for climbing Annapurna IV?

What are the prerequisites for climbing Annapurna IV?

Skills to be learned.

Everything you need to know about

Annapurna IV 7525M Expedition

1. When is the best time to climb Annapurna IV?

2. How much does the Annapurna IV expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?

Climb - Baruntse with Mera Peak Expedition link