ANNAPURNA 1 8091M - Summit the most dangerous 8000er
HIGHLIGHTS
Annapurna 1, 8091M Summit
North West ridge, route via Dutch rib. Camp 1 - 3 strategy
1:1 Guide/Client ratio (additional support on team size)Small team strategy. 1-8 max client members.
16 Weeks of training programs for 8000M from Training Peaks
35-40 days. 26-30 Days of alpine climbing
Helicopter 🚁 In/Out Pokhara
climb annapurna 1
Annapurna 1, 8019M/26545FT, isn't just any ordinary 8000M+ mountain; it's a legendary iconic mountain known for its notorious nature steeped in history and revered as one of the toughest 8000ers to sucessfully summit. This expedition is a formidable test of skill and endurance, where only the bravest dare to tread. Annapurna one, is part of the great Annapurna massif range, standing tall between Annapurna South 7219M/23684FT on the south side and Annapurna III 7555M/24787FT to the western face.
Pre-requisite experiences (at least one 6000M & 7000M or 8000M+): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Annapurna 3 peak challenge, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions , Tilicho peak, Annapurna IV, Ama Dablam, and Everest 8848M . Multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 6B to 7B+, Ice climbing WI4-5 and Mixed climbing M6-7 grade.
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Report blog post. Spring 2025 Annapurna I expedition, we made the difficult decision to turn back at 8,040m upon discovering that the final couloir relied entirely on outdated fixed lines and anchors. Our team prioritized safety over summit ambitions, reflecting our commitment to responsible mountaineering practices in this extreme environment.
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2026
16th March - 24th April (8 spots left)
2027
15th March - 23rd April (8 Spots)
2028
18th March - 26th April (8 Spots)
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USD 35,000 per person - Signature Climb
USD 31,950 per person - Classic Climb
Deposit: USD $5,000
All-inclusive. Guaranteed departure. No extra hidden costs.
Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD
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IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader
Nama branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
16 Weeks of training programs for 8000M fromTraining Peaks
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
Arrival hotel. Single room - 5 Star Kathmandu and Pokhara
Post Expedition - Recover focused 90 min Massage in Kathmandu (hotel)
All trekking and climbing permits (Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents, single tents in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
4 Oxygen Bottles
60 kgs personal weight
Chocolate, energy bars, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipments
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner on trek and expedition days
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick-up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
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NNMGA certified Guide leader
Nama branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)
1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
16 Weeks of training programs for 8000M fromTraining Peaks
Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the number in climbing team members)
Arrival hotel. Single room - 4 Star Kathmandu and 5 * Pokhara
All trekking and climbing permits (Permit and TIMS)
All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead
Expedition tents, single tents in Base Camps and shared in higher camps Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas
3 Oxygen Bottles
60 kgs personal weight
Chocolate, energy bars, biscuits, canned foods, nuts
Burners and expedition equipments
Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone
Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner on trek and expedition days
Lodge accommodation during the trek
Porters per guest
Arrival pick-up and departure
Basic First aid kit
Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
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Visas and travel insurance
Bonuses ($1500 Summit, $500 Camp 1 and 2, $1000 Camp 3 & 4)
Entertainment and food (Kathmandu and Pokhara)
Bottled drinks and beverages
Evacuation (will be done in your account)
Tips (Service Charge in Hotel and Restaurants are included)
Single supplement Charges
Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions
Optional trips
Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks and any meals besides breakfast, lunch and dinner
Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon
International flights to Kathmandu
ITINERARY - signature climb
Day 1 - 2 Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel for expedition briefing.
Day 3 Fly to Pokhara - trek to Forest camp
Day 4 Forest Camp - Mardi High camp
Day 5 Mardi high camp and sleep over night at 4000M
Day 6 Pokhara and rest day
Day 7 - 34 🚁 Helicopter to Annapurna 1 BC, Climbing Period for Annapurna I Summit (8091m) (27 Days of climbing, Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, contingency day, Training, and preparation for a summit bid. We will aim 1 rotations between Camp 1 & 2 and summit push from camp 3)
Day 35-36 🚁 Helicopter to Pokhara and rest day
Day 37 - 38 ✈️ Fly to Pokhara to Kathmandu. Drive to Nagarkot - NAMAS Signature Reset & Recover
Day 39 Kathmandu
Day 40 Departure
ACCOMMODATIONS
Day 1 - 3 and 33-34 (Hotel)
Day 7 - 32 (Alpine Camping)
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Day 27 — Physical Reset & Nervous-System Downshift
Arrival - Silent check-in & welcome ritual (no briefings, no schedules)
Deep tissue / sports recovery massage (60–90 mins) - Focus: calves, quads, hips, lower back, shoulders
Infrared or traditional sauna session
Guided breath work session (20–30 mins) - Helps shift from survival mode to recovery mode
Day 28 — Mental Closure & Gentle Reawakening
Slow wake-up with sunrise Himalayan views
Guided mindfulness or reflection session → closing the climb mentally, not just physically
Foot therapy / reflexology and Facial
Guided breath-work session (20–30 mins) - Helps shift from survival mode to recovery mode
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ITINERARY - signature climb
Day 1 - 2 Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel for expedition briefing.
Day 3 Fly to Pokhara and hotel transfer
Day 4 Drive to Tatopani
Day 5 Tatopani to Humkhola
Day 6 Humkhola - Panchakunda
Day 7 Panchakunda - Annapurna 1 BC
Day 8 - 34 Climbing Period for Annapurna I Summit (8091m) (27 Days of climbing, Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, contingency day, Training, and preparation for a summit bid. We will aim 1 rotations between Camp 1 & 2 and summit push from camp 3)
Day 35 🚁 Helicopter to Pokhara and rest day
Day 36 Rest Day Pokhara
Day 37 Flight to Kathmandu
Day 38 Departure
ACCOMMODATIONS
Day 1 - 3 and 33-34 (Hotel)
Day 7 - 32 (Alpine Camping)
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476 Summits
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Everest USD 59,500 P/P
Lhotse USD 32,500 P/P
Annapurna IV USD 9,950 P/P
Makalu USD 45,000 P/P
GUIDING TEAM
Our selected climbing team members who have been climbing together for the past 8 years will be the backbone of our Everest expedition leading team. This team will be responsible for strategizing, planning, organization, and climbing Mount Everest. Our team is well known for making the well-being of our client’s number one priority. Our guiding team will have extensive past experiences of leading Mount Everest, Annapurna I, Manaslu, Annapurna’s, K2, G2, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, and several other peaks in Nepal and abroad expeditions.
Our guides are certified team professionals who are trained and assessed through the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) and the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NNMGA). Highly skilled and competent team members along with guiding effectively their role are to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition. Our guide's contribution is predominantly around making decisions to keep you safe and healthy and to avoid mishaps. Their experience is based solely on years of first-hand experience on the mountain and leading several expeditions with Namas teams. Our team consists of both international and local members, where we know the knowledge and understanding both the worlds brings in a lot of value when working together, implement effective strategies and plan back-up contingency plans in case of setbacks during our expedition. These are world-class climbers and guides who are knowledgeable, kind, strong, experienced, respectful, and very proficient. We provide a 1:1 Sherpa/Guide ratio resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and the chance of success.
This vast amount of organizational and logistical expertise, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Namas Expedition the premier guiding company on Annapurna 1 expedition. All members on the team will have an equal opportunity and dedicated support for safely climbing to the summit and returning to base camp, as well as climbing Lhotse should the climbers choose to do so. All our client climbing members enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can be rest assured to have a great time throughout. You should really consider joining our Sherpa dance group, not only are they amazing at guiding and taking care of you but also breaking some amazing dance moves. We might just have a competition.
If you are serious about being successful on an ascent of the world’s highest mountain—and you want an environment that gives you the best chance of attaining that goal in a relaxed team atmosphere or private expedition—then Namas Expedition is a perfect choice. Climbers need to have a solid base of experience and proven climbing skills to qualify for this program. If you are unsure, please feel free to discuss your experience level with us.
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Our Expedition Route - North West Ridge, Nepal.
Base camp (4,190m/13,747ft)
Camp I (5,150m/16,896ft)
Camp II (5,700m/18,700ft)
Camp III (6,500m/21,325ft)
Camp IV (7,400m/24,278ft)
Summit (8,091m/24,278ft)
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The name "Annapurna" originates from the Sanskrit terms "Anna," symbolizing "food" or "grains," and "Purna," representing "full" or "complete." Revered as a goddess in Nepal, Annapurna holds profound significance and is worshipped with great reverence by Nepalese.
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Annapurna 1 was successfully climbed by mountaineering legends Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachnanel, who made history with the first ascent in 1950.At Namas Expedition we are not focused on being the biggest or glamorous expedition team. Our focus and priorities are simple.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
1. Initial Inquiry and Planning
At NAMAS Adventure, we start by understanding your aspirations and goals. From your first conversation with our expert team, we provide personalized recommendation tailored to your interests. Once the perfect expedition is identified, a deposit secures your spot. We then work closely with you to plan and prepare every detail—from gear selection and training advice to arranging insurance, permits, and logistics.
2. Preparing for the Journey
As your expedition date approaches, we’ll help you finalize all preparations. This includes collecting the final balance payment (typically due 60-90 days before your trip), ensuring all necessary documents are in order, and addressing any remaining questions. Our team is available via email or phone calls to make sure you’re fully prepared and confident for the adventure ahead.
3. On-Expedition Support
Arrive at your destination ready to begin! From pre-expedition briefings and gear checks to the full support of our experienced guides and ground team during your climb, we’re here to ensure everything runs smoothly. With flexibility to adapt to any changes or needs, we’re committed to making your adventure seamless, enjoyable, and unforgettable
frequently asked questions
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March - May (Spring) is the best time to climb Annapurna 1. April being the best time.
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Because it’s a mountain where the biggest threats are objective: avalanche paths, serac fall zones, and fast-changing snow stability—hazards that remain dangerous even for strong climbers.
Historically, Annapurna I was cited with fatality rates around ~32% in older-era statistics, and while modern outcomes have improved, the mountain’s risk profile is still defined by objective hazard exposure.
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Per summit attempt, it has historically been riskier. Everest’s Nepal-side deaths vs summits through Dec 2025 are around 2.5–2.7% (depending on dataset framing), while Annapurna I has long been among the highest by deaths-to-summits metrics (though improved significantly in recent years).
The key difference: Everest risk is heavily influenced by crowding, altitude physiology, and known bottlenecks—Annapurna is heavily influenced by unavoidable hazard corridors.
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Avalanches and serac fall exposure, especially on the north-side lines and during warming cycles
Rapid snowpack changes and unstable slabs
High consequence terrain where retreat options can be limited and slow
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We do not chase a summit on bad infrastructure. In Spring 2025, NAMAS turned back at 8,040m after assessing that the final section relied on outdated fixed lines/anchors—a deliberate “survival over summit” decision.
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Annapurna I is one of the most serious 8,000m mountains in Nepal—steep, committing, and unforgiving.
Our standard plan is to climb via the North West Ridge (Dutch Rib) / West Face variation, depending on conditions in that season. We use a dedicated rope-fixing team to establish fixed lines on the critical sections and build a safe, efficient line of ascent.
We operate with a structured 4-camp system:
Base Camp
Camp 1
Camp 2
Camp 3
Camp 4
Summit Push
The core principle is simple: reduce time in the hazard zones. On Annapurna, speed and timing are not “nice to have”—they are part of safety.
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Time duration and distance varies from camp to camp, but on normal climbing day can expect an average of 6 - 8 hours climb. Summit attempt days are usually the longest one, as we have to descend down to our chosen camp. (Camp 3 or 2 depending on our overall progress)
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Summit day is the hardest day of the expedition.
We typically start around 7:00 PM from Camp 3, climbing steep snow and ice for 10+ hours to the summit (conditions dependent). Then comes the real test: descending safely and efficiently.
Expect roughly:
10+ hours up
4-5 hours down, usually to Camp 2 or Camp 3 depending on conditions and team status
You must be prepared for a 15+ hour day in the Death Zone. That’s the reality.
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Item description
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No. Annapurna I is an advanced level / expert-only 8000m expedition.
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At minimum: several 4000M - 6000m and one or more 7000m (or 8000m+) expedition background. NAMAS lists example prerequisites and expects prior time in real alpine systems (not just trekking)
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North West Ridge via the Dutch Rib (north side).
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NAMAS lists a standard ladder of camps (with typical altitudes):
BC 4,190m
C1 5,150m
C2 5,700m
C3 6,500m
Summit 8,091m
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Rotations between camp 1 and 2. Then we make the push ffrom camp 3. The strategy is to minimize time in hazard corridors. We build camps and fix lines where required, but the winning strategy on Annapurna is not “slow and steady.” It’s smart timing + efficient movement + fast execution when the mountain gives a window.
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Yes. We build the itinerary with enough flexibility to wait for the right window and adapt to changing conditions.
Annapurna I requires patience. We will not rush a summit push if route stability or weather is wrong. We strongly recommend booking flexible return flights, because rigid travel plans create pressure—and pressure is how climbers make bad decisions.
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Annapurna I is a serious expedition—an extreme objective in the 8,000m category. This isn’t a “bucket list” mountain. It’s a commitment to high-level preparation, risk management, and disciplined execution.
If you’re unsure where you stand, our team can help you map a realistic progression using our internal grading and roadmap approach—so you choose the right mountain at the right time.
If you want a fast answer:
If you need constant reassurance in difficult situations, Annapurna I is not the right next step.
This mountain rewards calm, competence, and personal responsibility.
Team, Ratios, Logistics & Training
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We keep teams small and controlled: maximum 8 climbers.
1 lead guide: IFMGA / NMA certified (Nepal-based leadership first)
We believe modern Nepalese IFMGA/NMA guides are fully capable at the highest level—and we prioritize responsible leadership development in Nepal.
Sherpa ratio: 1:1 Sherpa-to-client
Our Sherpas are NNMGA / Khumbu Climbing Center trained, with extensive 8,000m experience. English level is typically intermediate—clear enough for instruction, safety checks, and coordination under stress.A fully dedicated “personal Sherpa” arrangement can be organized if requested (additional cost), depending on your support plan.
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NAMAS lists IFMGA or NNMGA-certified leadership (depending on package) plus a high-altitude Sherpa team.
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Small-team strategy: 1 to 8 climbers.
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Most guests tip at the end of the expedition.
Your booking already includes a $1,000 tip pool, which we distribute fairly among drivers, porters, kitchen staff, and support team.
Many guests also choose to:
Donate usable gear (jackets, trekking poles, gloves, hats)
Host a final team dinner as a gesture of respect
Suggested summit bonus: $1,500+ (for your 1:1 climbing Sherpa), depending on performance, effort, and your overall arrangement.
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This is not a mountain for “first-time high altitude climbers.”
You should have:
Prior high-altitude expedition experience: Multiple 4000M - 6,500m+
7,000m+, and preferably at least one 8,000m attempt or summit
Strong rope and systems discipline
Critical skills include:
Abseiling / rappelling, including multi-pitch efficiency
Confident movement on mixed terrain: snow, ice, rock, slabs, scrambling
Strong crampon and ice axe technique: front-pointing, balance, secure descending
Self-arrest competency and stability on steep snow
Ability to manage your body at altitude: hydration, appetite, sleep, pacing
Rock climbing benchmark: 6B to 7A+
(Grades are only useful if your alpine performance matches.) -
Minimum 2 / Maximum 8.
Small teams move better, make safer decisions, and avoid chaos on a serious face like Annapurna. -
This expedition is for climbers 18+ with relevant high-altitude and technical experience who are ready for an expert-level 8,000m objective.
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We allow 60kg of personal gear for this expedition.
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Yes. NAMAS inclusions list:
Signature: 4 oxygen bottles
Classic: 3 oxygen bottles
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Evacuation is listed as excluded / billed to your account, so you must carry appropriate insurance coverage. Generally emergency evacuations are covered by your insurance.
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Yes, it can be arranged depending on the itinerary and your support plan. Email us and we’ll advise the best logistics.
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Yes. Private expeditions can be arranged within the correct season. Additional cost applies due to dedicated logistics, staffing, and custom planning.
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You must be in excellent shape. Annapurna is technically demanding and physically punishing.
Sherpa support is strong, but on this mountain you’re still expected to:
Carry your personal kit during rotations
Move efficiently for hours on steep terrain
Recover quickly and consistently across weeks at altitude
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You should commit to a 6–12 month training block that includes:
Endurance base (long aerobic work)
Strength (legs + trunk + posterior chain)
Weighted uphill carries (your expedition currency)
Bouldering / rope climbing sessions weekly
Ice climbing / mountaineering course (crampons, ice axe, rope systems)
Real mountain days whenever possible (not just gym fitness)
If you want a structured approach, we can point you to our training resources and help you build a roadmap aligned to your current level.
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Typically 10–15kg during acclimatization movements, depending on the day and what you’re carrying. We stage gear in camp tents to reduce unnecessary loads and keep your movement efficient.
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We will provide a 16 weeks training program designed for 8000M peaks once booked with our team.
Additionally, we’ve written detailed guides on training for mountaineering to help you build a plan that matches the reality of long days, steep terrain, and high altitude.
Use that as your baseline—and then we’ll tailor expectations based on your experience and objective.