Mountain expeditions in Nepal during the autumn season - Namas Adventure

Barutnse expedition camp 1 6100M

MOUNTAIN EXPEDITIONS IN NEPAL DURING THE AUTUMN SEASON

Planning your next 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M mountain expeditions in Nepal during the Autumn season?

September - November (autumn in Nepal) is another best time to plan your Himalayan adventures. After the spring headlines of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu stories, autumn awaits to write new chapters and records in other Himalayan peaks.

p.s. - Everest or Lhotse expedition is not organized during the autumn season. Why do you ask? There is the financial side with almost no teams to cover up for Khumbu icefall doctors fees and the weather window is generally very short.

Manaslu 8163M (Late August - September) and Ama Dablam 6810M (October - November) attract the majority of the climbers but the way we see it there are other amazing peaks that can be climbed and explored. Here are our suggestions

7000M Expeditions

Baruntse Expedition 7129M

Remote, Raw, and Rugged. Semi-technical climb in nature, Baruntse peak is one of the 7000er mountains that is accessible to climb during autumn. The knife ridge to the summit is not for the faint-hearted. Perfect 7000M expedition that gives you a solid feel of proper mountaineering (classic and alpine style) and best of all there aren’t many climbers. No traffic and one we love taking upon.

Join us here during autumn climbs (October - November)

Himlung Himal 7126M

Himlung Himal final summit ridge

A classic 7000er climb in the Annapurna region. Remote, safer, accessible, and less technical with a high chance of summit success. Expect some long climbing days, particularly on summit day. A moderate amount of teams are attempting Himlung during the autumn season.

Join us for Himlung Himal 7126M expedition (September - October - November) every year.

Annapurna IV 7525M

ANNAPURNA IV 7525M

Breaking above the 7500M zone, Annapurna IV 7527M is the perfect mountaineering objective for climbers who do not want to avoid crowds/traffic to prepare for their Everest or other 8000M peak expeditions. Annapurna IV is part of the great Annapurna massif range, standing tall between Annapurna II 7937M/26040FT on the western side and Annapurna III 7555M/24787FT to the eastern face. The climbing route has fewer objective dangers and is relatively a semi-technical climb.

Putha Hiunchuli 7246M

Far away from the sight of Everest and if you want to have a feel of the classic mountaineering expedition and raw-pristine moments then the far west expedition to Putha Hiunchuli 7246m in Nepal surely won’t disappoint.

You are a pro-seasonal high altitude skier and want to up your shredding game? This peak provides you with a perfect line. We venture into Putha Hiunchuli every 2 to 3 years. Check out our next departure dates to Putha Hiunchuli on our page.

8000M Expeditions

Manaslu 8163M

Manaslu true summit 8163m

Manaslu, the mountain of spirit, is the most climbed 8000M+ mountain during the Autumn season. Now with the true summit finally becoming clear to all the climbers, the final 100M traverse to the summit does not get easier. Manaslu is also considered one of the easiest mountains at 8000M level.

We organize a Manaslu expedition every season, join our ever so small and fun-loving team, not to forget to the true summit.

Dhaulagiri 8167M

Approaching Dhaulagiri 8167M

Located in the central west of Nepal, Dhaulagiri 8167 M mountain is another 8000er expedition that is organized mostly during the autumn season. Dhaulagiri attracts a handful of climbers during the autumn season. This is the world’s lucky 7th highest mountain.

Check out 8000M expedition pages for upcoming Dhaulagiri expeditions.

Kanchenjunga 8586M

Kanchenjunga 8586M

Mount Kanchenjunga 8586M is the final 8000M on the eastern flanks of the Himalayan belt. It sits right on the border of Nepal and India (Sikkim). A handful of expeditions are organised every year and some summits have been recorded during autumn season too.

6000M Expeditions

Ama Dablam 6810M

After the Manaslu climb, almost 90% of the team is focused on the Ama Dablam. Be it to summit this peak or to strategize with next season’s Everest climb. Either way, expect a decent crowd of climbers at Ama Dablam.

Join us at Ama Dablam every autumn and possibly during early winter too. For the ones that can brave the cold.

Cholatse 6440M

Climbing the ridge to Cholatse camp 2

If you want to escape the gatherings of climbers at Ama Dablam and instead climb an equally challenging or may even be a tougher peak in the Khumbu region then Cholatse is a perfect mountain to climb. Do not underestimate this mountain because it does not boast higher but the climbing routes are second to none. Climbing on a long exposed knife-edge ridge and climbing ice headwalls are some amazing feats to take on at Cholatse.

Plenty of crux and not forget the ever visible Gokyo valley during your entire climbing period. Join us at Cholatse every year during the autumn season.

Note - With Everest/Lhotse expedition not operating during the autumn season, most of the certified guides (350 - 400) are not occupied and are raring to go and help climbers achieve their dream adventures in other mountain peaks.

Since autumn is another big season to achieve your dream climbs in Nepal, are you planning any of the above-mentioned mountaineering adventures? We organize, all-inclusive expeditions during the autumn season and would love to welcome you onboard our teams. Unlike others, we organize a team of max 8 small and a compact teams, which enables us to plan swiftly and have an intimate group during our expeditions.

Join us on our 6000M, 7000M, or 8000M expeditions during autumn in any given year. Let’s go on your dream adventures.

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Technically challenging commercial peak expeditions below 8000M to climb in Nepal - Namas Adventure

Scrambing on vertical uneven rocky section, Ama Dablam Expedition

Technically challenging commercial peak expeditions below 8000M to climb in Nepal

For climbers seeking a technically challenging commercial peak climbing expedition in Nepal, we have compiled a list of amazing expeditions. By no means are these expeditions suitable for beginner/Intermediate level climbers. This one is for the pure grit lovers who want to enjoy, suffer, test their skills, and experience type 2 fun in the remote Nepalese Himalayan peaks.

Most commercial expedition teams avoid super technical routes but with some mountains, you just can’t find a way around it. The only way to accomplish the expedition is to put your technical climbing skills to the test. These expeditions require climbers to have all the necessary skills for technical climbing. For the sake of clarity, all commercial expedition does have a fixed rope system in place, unless all the team members want to go alpine-style without the assistance of a fixed rope. Fixed-line ropes are there for safety and assistance.

Skills such as climbing 70 - 90 degrees vertical routes, traversing on knife-edge ridges or couloirs, ice climbings skills on verticals, scrambling on rocky sections, being ok on uneven exposed areas, and long abseiling on vertical and vastly exposed sections. This sort of climb is more of an art form combined with pure strength and grit. So now that we have mentioned the level you need to be at, the expeditions mentioned below will give you their fair share of amazing technical climbing challenges.

AMA DABLAM 6810M EXPEDITION

Ama Dablam is our very first recommendation because the summit success rate is relatively higher compared to other peak expeditions on the list. It does have to do with its popularity and many other teams being in the mountain.

Dominating the views of the Khumbu trail, Ama Dablam is picturesque it is this magnificent peak also provides the challenges of climbing a technical peak expedition. Ama Dablam is the third most peak expedition permit that is issued every year. With Autumn being 90% of the permit issued, if you want to see very few climbing teams then spring climb should be your choice. This one is a must for all mountaineering enthusiasts.

Ama Dablam expedition Difficulty

• Grading (Alpine/Fitness): TD / 5 (click for more grading Infos)

• Rock climbing grade: 5.4 to 5. 9

• Mixed climbing difficulty: M2 - M3

CHOLATSE 6440M EXPEDITION

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Cholatse expedition is considered a step up or technically challenging mountain compared to the Ama Dablam expedition. This towering 6640M peak sits right between Gokyo valley and Everest. Do not underestimate the peak because it does now tower above 6500M. The never-ending knife-edge ridge sections above 6000M and climbing on the super exposed mixed section are not to be taken lightly. These types of expeditions are more for the alpinist nature who loves the art of alpine climbing and perseverance.

Cholatse expedition Difficulty

• Grading (Alpine/Fitness): TD / 5 (click for more grading Infos)

• Rock climbing grade: 5.4 to 5. 9

• Ice Climbing: WI2+

• Mixed climbing difficulty: M3 - M4

PUMORI 7161M EXPEDITION

Pumori 7161M mountain peak is another technically challenging peak to climb in the Everest region. Pumori is another mountain that dominates the view during trekking or climbing in the Everest region. Climbing via the South East Ridge route, the route is wildly exposed with several exposed crux at higher altitudes. Climbers wanting to take on the challenges of the Pumori peak expedition should not take it lightly and previous climbs of extreme altitude technical climbs are a must.

Since it is located opposite to Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse south face the events on the other side of the mountain cannot go missing. Some Everest teams use Pumori an acclimatization peak.

Pumori 7161M expedition difficulty

• Grading (Alpine/Fitness): TD / 5 (click for more grading Infos)

• Rock climbing grade: 5.4 to 5. 9

• Mixed climbing difficulty: M3- M4

Want to plan Pumori 7161M Expedition with the Namas Adventure team? Email us at - bookings@namasadventure.com. Once we form enough team with 4+ members we can start planning this expedition.

We will add more expeditions of such types as we explore these types of climbing expeditions.

Explore more. Go.

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Climbing your first 7000M mountain peaks. Safer, easiest and high success rate - Namas Adventure

What is the easiest 7000m peak to climb? Which 7000M peak should I climb first?

Which is the easiest 7000M in the world? What 7000M peak expedition has the highest or most realistic chance of success?

Which 7000M should I climb after completing my 6000M peak expeditions?

Which mountain peak should I climb before climbing an 8000M mountain peak?

Climbing 7000M peaks can be a great way to gain valuable experience and improve your skills before tackling higher mountains. These peaks are often less crowded than their 8000M counterparts, such as 🏔Mount Everest, K2, Manaslu, and Makalu, and provide a chance to test your abilities in a more remote setting. It is important to have a solid foundation of experience and proven climbing skills before attempting these peaks, and if you have any doubts about your readiness, it is recommended to discuss your experience level with a professional guide or expedition company.

For those interested in high-altitude mountaineering, it is important to note that there are no easy peaks to conquer. It is crucial to have previous experience climbing above 4000-6000 meters before attempting a 7000M peak. These expeditions will provide the necessary knowledge and understanding of what it takes to climb larger mountains, both physically and mentally. At the 7000-meter level, the difficulty and technicality increase significantly, so it is important to be well-prepared and able to handle the challenges that come with these expeditions.

To qualify for a 7000-meter peak expedition, it is recommended to have completed at least two climbs of 6000 meters or higher, such as Lobuche East, Island Peak, Chulu West, or Mont Blanc. These experiences will help you understand how your body and mind respond to high-altitude environments and allow you to reflect and optimize your training for future challenges.

If you are planning a 7000-meter mountain expedition, there are several entry-level options available that offer semi-technical or technical climbing routes and are considered safer without unreasonable dangers. These expeditions can be an excellent goal for intermediate to advanced-level climbers.

Himlung Himal 7126M, Nepal

Himlung Himal Summit, Namas client team Vincente 2022 Fall

Himlung Himal 7126M, will be our first recommendation when it comes to 7000M+ peak expedition. This peak has the highest summit success records to date and is considered the easy/safest 7000M expedition in Nepal.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one or more): Kilimanjaro, Mt. Elbrus, Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher)

This peak is a popular choice for intermediate climbers seeking a challenging yet accessible mountaineering experience in the Annapurna region, located near the border of Nepal and Tibet. The best time to tackle this mountain is during the late spring or autumn when climbing conditions are optimal and the size and support of other teams are favorable.

This expedition involves ascending through a series of 2-3 high camps, with no intermediate peaks for acclimatization. Climbers can expect plenty of snow on the mountain, which is known for its fresh powder. Despite its remote location, there may be a few other smaller teams and climbers present at base camp and along the route. If you are interested in tackling Himlung Himal, be sure to read more about this expedition."

Bonus article - Check our article on the success rate of Himlung Himal vs Baruntse. (link)

Mt. Nun 7135M and Mt.Kun 7077M, India

Mount Nun 7135M, Camp 1

Perfect for summer climbing plans, Mt.Nun 7135M and Mt. Kun 7077M are other great semi-technical 7000M climbing peaks in the Zanskar valley of Ladhak, India. Sharing the same advanced high camp, the two peaks are separated, vast snow plateau with different climbing routes. Mt. Nun 7135M has more summit success and is technically less challenging compared to Mt. Kun. Granted India may not be famous for mountaineering expeditions, but India does host some amazing 6000M and 7000M peaks.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one or more): Kilimanjaro, Mt. Elbrus, Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher)

Mountaineering expeditions are not as famous as in Nepal, Pakistan, or China, but 7000M peaks in the Indian mountains are a perfect alternative for summer mountaineering plans. Join us on Mt. Nun expedition during our scheduled expeditions. Also, trekking through Ladhak will be one of the highlights of this expedition.

Putha Hiunchuli 7246M, Nepal

Putha Hiunchuli 7246M

Putha Hiunchuli 7246M (Dhaulagiri VII) can be found in the far western isolated part of Nepal. Putha Hiunchuli is another 7000M peak suitable for intermediate/advanced level climbers, which is a semi-technical climb without unreasonable hazards of avalanches and fewer crevasses in the climbing route. This mountain is best climbed during the autumn season due to the more stable snow conditions. The expedition involves three high camps and long stretches between camps. Putha Hiunchuli is known for having fewer dangers and wide plateaus, making it a popular choice for advanced-level off-piste skiers and snowboarders. However, logistics and infrastructure development in this region can be challenging compared to other expeditions. If you are an intermediate to advanced-level climber looking for a unique mountaineering experience, Putha Hiunchuli may be the perfect fit for you.

This is another easy and safest 7000M peak to climb but the only issue is their logistics and having enough team members for the expedition. Learn more about the Putha Hiunchuli expedition.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one or more): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua (Similar semi-technical 6000M peaks or higher)

Spantik 7026M, Pakistan

Spantik 7026M, is a popular choice for many climbers seeking a 7000M expedition in Pakistan. Also, famously named as Golden peak, Spantik is located in the Gilgit-Baltistan region. This peak expedition is accessible and can be a great 7000M introductory climbing during summer (June - August). This is another safer and semi-technical expedition to undertake, especially if you are planning your first 7000M expedition.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one or more): Kilimanjaro, Mt. Elbrus, Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher)

The journey to the base camp takes about 3 days of the trek. This expedition consists of 3 high camps with one or two rotations so that climbers are well acclimatized before making the push for the summit. From the summit, amazing views of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram ranges are seen with K2 and Broad peaks on sight.

Lenin Peak 7134M

Lenin Peak 7134M

Lenin Peak is another 7000M peak that is considered an easy, accessible, and non-technical climb. This peak sits at the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. The only factor that hinders a lot of the expeditions in this part of the climbing world, is the unstable and uncompromising weather patterns. Most commercial expeditions are planned during the summer season (June - August).

This expedition does attract a handful of crowds so, if you want expeditions with lesser crowds/teams then the above-mentioned expedition will be the better alternative.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one or more): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua (Similar semi-technical 6000M peaks or higher)

Are you considering climbing your first 7000M peak as part of your mountaineering journey?

It is important to ensure that you have the necessary experience and preparation before attempting a climb of this magnitude. Inadequate preparation can not only jeopardize your own safety, but also that of your guides and team. Our team has a range of 7000M peak expeditions available in the Nepalese Himalayas and we are working on expanding our offerings to include summer expeditions in India and Pakistan in the future. Let us help you gain the necessary experience and skills to successfully reach the summit and continue on your mountaineering journey.

Go challenge greater things. Commit and finally take on that dream adventures you have always been planning. Life is too short to live with regrets. See you in the mountains. 🙂🏔🙏🏼

Namas Adventure Team

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Climbing your first 8000M mountain peak - Namas Adventure

Which 8000M Mountain peak should I first aim for?

Which is the easiest, accessible, and safest 8000M peak to climb first?

What should my first ideal 8000M peak climb be?

Which 8000M should be my first challenge?

When considering an 8000M mountain peak expedition, it is important to have the right experience and preparation. Before attempting any 8000M peak, we recommend that climbers have completed at least two 6000M peak expeditions, such as Lobuche East 6119M, Island Peak 6189M, Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua or Chulu West 6419M, as well as at least one expedition to a peak of 7000M or higher, such as Baruntse 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M, or Putha Hiunchuli 7246M. These expeditions will provide valuable experience and understanding of what it takes to be successful at high altitudes, as well as the physical and mental demands of long and challenging days in the mountains.

With that said, it is important to note that there are no easy or comfortable climbs at 8000M. However, when comparing the 14X8000M peaks, the expeditions listed below are considered entry-level and are generally considered to be less technical and safer options at this altitude

Manaslu 8163M

Manaslu 8163M, is the eighth highest mountain in the world and is considered an introductory 8000M mountain peak. This should be the choice for many climbers, who want to make this their first-ever expedition into 8000M. Granted this expedition sees many climbing teams during the autumn climbing season, this factor makes this expedition relatively safer logistically and with enough team support. There are fewer technical sections and fewer hazards. This has been the most preferred 8000M expedition ever since the Cho-Oyu expedition from the Chinese side has been uncertain and difficult dealing with Chinese authorities.

The lower section (between camp 1 and camp 2) has most of the objective danger and is also prone to avalanches. Make no mistake, all-mountain big or small is prone to these objective dangers. Climbing the true summit of Manaslu is another technical challenge. (Manaslu true summit blogpost link) The last 50M - 60M will have to be traversed on exposed slope sections and the summit can only fit 1-2 climbers at a time. You will need to sharpen your ice climbing and traversing climbing skills. But if you are comfortable with the fore summit then you need not worry about the final 50M - 60M technical climbing challenges on Manaslu.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c, and Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4.

This expedition is considered a must final crucial expedition for the “Road to Everest” expedition goal. Our team organizes Manaslu every year. Join us and let us help you step into 8000M safely and climb a true summit of Manaslu 8163M.

Cho-Oyu 8201M

Cho Oyu 8201M

Cho-Oyu 8201M, the 6th higher peak in the world is another safer mountain and gets its famous tag as the easiest 8000M peak. Located between Nepal and China, this 8000M peak lies 20km away from Mt.Everest. Where the difficulty lies in climbing this peak is complicated rules with Chinese authorities and uncertainties. New commercial routes from the Nepal side are begin tested (Gelje Sherpa team and Pioneer expedition team - 2022 Winter expedition) but the new route from the Nepal side is difficult and exposed. Only 14 people have climbed from Nepal’s side. Should the two team succeed with their expeditions, this will open doors to the Cho-Oyu expedition from Nepal’s side and a perfect alternative to climbing another 8000M peak from the Nepalese side.

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.

Teams set up 3 higher camps with several rotations to strategize for the summit push. There are no real technical sections and the objective dangers are very few on the Chinese side of this peak. It is also one of the shorter 8000M expedition and base camp is even accessible by jeep. This makes it one of the most attractive expeditions for interested climbers and there have been well over 1000 ascents on this peak. On the Nepal side, the base camp is far, rugged, and longer compared to the Chinese side. This mountain is also a popular safer choice for high altitude skiers and snowboarders due to low objective risk and good snow conditions. Cho-Oyu 8201M, is mostly preferable to climb during the autumn season.

Our team is assessing situations with Nepal side climb and should the commercial route be tested and declared safer/accessible, we aim to plan the expedition from 2024 Autumn. Join us then?

Broad Peak 8047m

Broad Peak 8051M

Broad Peak 8051M, the 12th highest mountain in the world is located in the Karakoram Range in Northeastern Pakistan. The mountain is located along the western Baltoro glacier between K2 and G4 (Gasherbrum).

Pre-requisite requirements (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c, and Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4.

Broad Peak is also considered another safest eight-thousanders with a very high success rate. There are fewer objective technical dangers on the routes and is a straightforward climb. The distances between the camps are relatively short but steep. There are some rocky sections near the summit which are secured by fixed-line ropes by the guiding teams. The final climb to the real summit is an exposed climb, where the real danger lies but apart from that this is a straightforward climb and accessible peak to climb. The low angled section on the peak serves as less prone to avalanches.

Our team is planning Broad Peak in the summer of 2023/24. Join us on a higher expedition in the Karakoram region.

Are you planning your first-ever 8000M expedition? Want to test yourself in the death zone altitude before climbing higher to Mt. Everest or other tougher 8000M mountains? We hope the guidance and suggestion in this blog post have helped you to have an understanding of which 8000M to climb first. The right experience is a must and very important. Not only do inexperience and inadequate preparations hinder your chance of completing the expedition or endanger your life but also put the life of guide members and the team in danger too. Our team can help you prepare in the best way to gain the right experience to complete your dream of the first 8000M peak expedition.

Go challenge greater things. Commit and finally take on that dream adventures you have always been planning. Life is too short to live with regrets. See you in the mountains. 🙂🏔🙏🏼

Namas Adventure Team

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Visual Journey of Ama Dablam Expedition - Namas Adventure

Ama Dablam 6810M

VISUAL JOURNEY OF AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION

Ama Dablam's expedition is one of the most thrilling climbs in the Khumbu region. Ama Dablam's view dominates the view during Everest trekking routes. Not only is the climb beautiful and challenging but also physically/mentally demanding. Land in the buzzing historic city of Kathmandu following then to the famous Lukla airport your expedition begins. Your trek follows through the same trail of the iconic Everest base camp trek. The route then splits from the Pangboche village (4529M) to the Ama Dablam base camp 4529M and into the mountain.

Follow along as we describe the entire journey in images, as we take the beautiful yet challenging journey up to the summit of Ama Dablam 6810M.

Lukla Airport

Namche Bazaar

Everest trail and Ama Dablam on the right, Everest/Lhotse on the right background

Trek via the beautiful Gokyo lake 4900M

Dingboche. Island Peak far-left background and Ama Dablam on the right.

Island Peak 6189M. Acclimatization training peak.

Island Peak (Imja-Tse) is one of the most popular 6,000M+ climbing peaks in Nepal. The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. Imja Tse is a popular mountaineering objective for climbers in Nepal, with its standard climbing route having the difficulty rating of Alpine/fitness PD/2. Our team utilizes Island Peak 6189M or Lobuche East 6119M for training/acclimatization peak before climbing Ama Dablam. The climb in these peaks is an accomplishment on its own and an experience to climb another 6000M peak in the Khumbu region.

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Island Peak, Ridge traverse leading to Summit 6189M

Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M

This will be climbers home for 12-14 days. This will be a full fledge camp with kitchen/dining tent, resting camp where the rest of the crew will be there to support the expeditions.

Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M

Camp 1 (5800M)

The route to camp 1 is mostly traversing on rocky boulders, a somewhat loose and exposed ridge that is mostly dry during the autumn season and mixed with ice and snow during the spring season. Camp 1, can accommodate about 10 - 12 tents, which are set on the slopes of the rocky boulders and overcrowding can be an issue when all the teams are planning their final summit bid at the same time. The journey from base camp to camp 1 takes about 5 - 6 hours.

Camp 2, 6200M “Yellow Tower”

Images by Jackson Groves / Journey Era

The duration from camp 1 to camp 2 takes about 4-5 hours. As soon as climbers start off their journey from camp 1 the climb begins through clipping on a fixed-line.

The route is on the steep ridge, exposed on both sides. The routes on the way to camp 2 are stable. After traversing on the boulders and snow the final challenge for the day arrives at the yellow tower. The daunting “Yellow tower” is a straight 80 - 90 degrees vertical wall. Climbing with all the loads can be quite a challenge. So climbers need to be on their game on this part of the climb. Yellow tower climb can be graded at 6a rock climbing grade.

Camp 2 can only house about 7 to 8 tents so during the busy season it is hard to find the ideal spot and when overcrowded other makeshift camps have to be set up on the edges. This camp is not for the faint-hearted climbers but views from camp 2 are just out of this world.

Climbing the Mushroom ridge to Camp 3 (Situational)

The mushroom ridge traverse is one of the most challenging parts of climbing up to camp 3 and when descending down after summit bid. Rock falls can occur if climbers are ahead and climbers will have to traverse through a couloir on thier way to camp 3. This is the final technical section before reaching camp 3 or the summit.

Route to Ama Dablam Camp 3 (6400M)

Camp 3 depends a lot on the condition of snow and ice in the mountain. (Most likely to be set up during spring season than autumn.) The route goes from the back of the tower. Very exposed section and again depending on the season climbers will have to traverse on ice or granite slabs. Rockfalls can occur when there are lots of other climbing teams ahead. Some have even reported rocks the size of a football (soccer). The climb up is 70-80 degrees vertical and upon traversing climbers will reach the uncompromising mushroom ridge.

Lots of new and old fixed ropes can be found on this section. When climbing in the dark make sure to clip onto the right fixed line. Traversing through another super steep couloir on the ridge and steadily heading up climbers will arrive at camp 3 area. By this point, you will already have climbed for 5 hours. Nowadays, most teams do not stop at camp 3 and head straight to the summit. Arriving just beneath the pyramid the summit lies above the Dablam slopes.

Summit 6810M

Ama Dablam Summit 6810M

Summit of Ama Dablam is a broad plateau. An amazing feat to undertake and the achievement of a lifetime. On a clear day Mt. Everest, Lhotse Shar, Baruntse, Makalu, Cholatse, Taboche, and surrounding Himalayan peaks are visible.

AMA DABLAM EXPEDITION

Are you planning the Ama Dablam expedition as your next big mountaineering adventure? We have departures every year (spring/autumn). For more information on our Ama Dablam expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

Mount Everest expedition. New route, Nepal South side - Namas Adventure

New Proposed Sundari route, Everest Expedition, Nepal.

Legendary French mountaineer, Marc Batard and his team of Nepalese and french climbers have discovered a new route for Everest Expedition. Batard wants to further observe and test this route on his 2022 Spring Everest Expedition (without supplement O2) to see if it is commercially feasible. This alternative new route avoids the most dangerous part of the Nepal side Everest expedition, climbing the Great Khumbu Icefall.

This new route can be started from the village of Gorakshep which is at 5100M and the climbing route falls beneath the Nuptse ridge. The climb starts at an adjacent peak that was unnamed. Batard wanted to pay his homage to his former Sherpa team (Sundari Sherpa), named the peak Sundari Peak 5880M and the route Sundari route. Sundari Sherpa was part of his Everest expedition (1988) member who inspired him to climb Everest and break the speed record of the first ascent in less than 24hrs.

The route then leads to Camp 1 at 6065M, which is above Khumbu Icefall. Batard came up with this new route to find a safer alternative. Avoid the dangers of Khumbu Icefall which is nerve-racking even for experienced climbers. Batard team has fixed new 700M routes with 1000M ropes and 10mm screw blots. The idea is to have via-Ferrata with fixed metal railings, so that Sherpas with a heavy load can use it making it much-much safer compared to the dangerous Khumbu icefall. The team is aiming to fix the remaining 400M to Camp 2 (6400M).

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What are your thoughts on this new proposed route which seems much safer, not just for the clients but to Sherpa members too? Please comment below.

We think this is a great alternative and this could even open a possibility for the Autumn Everest expedition. Historically Autumn season is avoided by expedition companies to avoid the dangers of avalanches that come falling from the hanging serac above the icefall.

Even if the Autumn season is not possible, this will give Sherpa’s working in Everest/Lhotse expedition an extra layer of safety when working in the mountains. We wish Batard and his team very best wishes and a safe summit during their 2022 (without supplement O2) expeditions.

God's speed and success. Live Your Story.

Namas Adventure team

How to prepare for Ama Dablam climbing expedition? Step by step recommendations- Namas Adventure

How do I prepare to climb Ama Dablam?

We get this particular question asked a lot. Climbing the famous and exquisitely beautiful Ama Dablam peak has been or will be a dream for many aspiring mountaineers. This prominent and beautiful peak full-fills the thrill of climbing a mountain that combines technical challenges, not at an extremely high altitude but 200M shy below to 7000M level but is not your average peak expedition. Lots of steep climbing, in rock/ice/snow and exposed sections. This climb is definitely a must climb for mountain climbers. How can one go on about climbing this beautiful giant peak in the Himalayas?

In this blog article, we will just share all the prerequisite experiences required. Whether you are a novice climber who happens to see Ama Dablam when trekking the iconic Everest region or in images or you are beginner climbers who want to aim higher technical peaks. If you are an intermediate or pro/advanced level climber, who is just looking for a great mountaineering adventure ideas. We will recommend the necessary prior expeditions to be able to successfully take on this amazing expedition.

Amadablam 6810M climb is not for novice, beginner, or intermediate experience level climbers. You will need to have a good solid experience of previous several 4000M, 6000M, 7000M or even 8000M peak climbing experiences. If you consider your alpine climbing level at advanced or pro level, who have climbed mostly below 4000M then, substantial experience of alpine style and technical climbing experiences are a must. Now you know this is not an easy mountain to climb let’s start with our step-by-step expedition recommendations.

Step 1 (Novice level to Beginner Level)

If you are an absolute beginner who has never been to any previous high altitude adventures trekking or climbing and somehow you are inspired and dream of climbing Ama Dablam one day, then we can suggest these peaks, to begin with. With our team in Nepal, you can participate in our introductory expeditions to Yala Peak 5032M, Mera Peak 6476M, or Mountaineering course - Level 1 to begin your mountaineering journey. This expedition’s objective will be to test/expose yourself to any high-altitude trekking or non-technical peak climbing adventure in Nepal or around the world. You will have to be in a good shape but these introductory peak expeditions will help you learn the basics and fundamentals, giving you that confidence to climb other higher and semi-technical peaks.

Expedition Outcomes

• Introduction and learn the basics of mountaineering

• High altitude experiences

• Fun times in the mountains

Yala Peak 5732M

Mera Peak 6476M

Winter Mountaineering Course - Level 1

Step 1. 1 (Beginner to intermediate level) Lobuche East & Island Peak

At this level, you should have been exposed to climbing in mountains. You understand the fitness/mental level required during mountain expeditions. At the beginner to intermediate level, you will further learn climbing at high altitude with some technical pitch sections. Meaning you will be re-introduced to all the previous basic climbing skills adding further technical climbs. You will learn to navigate mixed rocky/snow/ice sections. Scrambling/traversing on exposed sections and jumaring on the fixed-line rope to take on vertical sections of the mountains.

These skills are very necessary as you progress on your mountaineering journey and expeditions of this type will give you that extra confidence to take on other tougher and technically challenging peaks in the Himalayas or around the world. We recommend peaks such as Island Peak 6189M + Lobuche East 6019M, Khumbu Three Peak Expedition, Chulu West 6419M, Three Peak Peru, expeditions for climbers at this stage. This expedition provides all the technical and physical challenges for climbers looking to progress at the Intermediate/+ level.

Expedition Outcomes

• Introduction or Re-introduction to classic mountaineering climbs

• Familiratisation with technical climbing gears

• Climbing/scrambling/traversing in mixed section. (i.e- rock/ice/snow)

• Experience climbing on exposed section. (i.e. Ridge and couliors)

• Jumaring in fixed-line to climb vertical sections.

• Abseiling/Rappel several hundred feet down on fixed-line

• Summits and small-scale expedition environment, tons of climbing fun

Lobuche East & Island Peak

Khumbu Three Peak

Chulu West 6419M

Three Peak Peru

Step 2 (Intermediate to Intermediate + level)

At this level, you are now 1 step closer to the Ama Dablam expedition. Although it is tempting to climb Ama Dablam after your one or two 6000M+ semi-technical expeditions, we advise climbers not to rush into climbing Ama Dablam. Ama Dablam's climbing should not be underestimated. The climbing routes on Ama Dablam are super exposed, which requires an extended period on the fixed-line rope, climbing on a vertical-exposed ridge section, and lots of abseiling down. You will have to be mentally/physically ready and your confidence/experience is super key.

So any climbing expedition at 7000M+ level can be strategically fitted into your climbing plans to finally take on Ama Dablam. We highly recommend Baruntse 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M Expedition, Tilicho Peak 7139M Expedition, Khan Tengri 7001M etc. These long days expeditions are semi-technical to technical climbs in nature with long and proper exposure to full expedition setup. Expedition of this nature will test you fully where all your previous knowledge of climbing/scrambling/traversing in the exposed mixed section will be put into test. There will be additional higher alpine camps and longer days at higher altitudes. You are constantly exposed to the forces of nature and mentally/physically you are challenged for an extended period of time compared to your previous expeditions. These expeditions will be longer, more demanding, tougher, and technically, physically, and mentally challenging. You will also learn about climbing in the team, how to co-operate as a team, assisting the weak links and how a grouped expedition runs, allowing everyone to achieve the same goal of summiting a 7000M peak as well as developing their skills and experiences further, to take on much more technically demanding and together peaks.

Expedition outcomes

• Developing climbing skills at 7000M level.

• Understanding of full expedition setups

• Climbing/scrambling/traversing in mixed section. (i.e- rock/ice/snow) at higher altitudes above 6000M.

• Longer exposure to climbing on exposed sections. (i.e. Ridge and steep couloirs)

• Jumaring in fixed-line to climb vertical sections.

• Abseiling/Rappel in longer and exposed ridge sections.

• Testing your physical and mental ability and pure grit at extreme altitudes.

• Summits and climbing moments at 7000M level

Baruntse Expedition

Himlung Himal 7126M

Tilicho Peak Expedition

Step 3 To Ama Dablam 6810M

Finally, you should be ready for Ama Dablam climbing expedition. Our only advice would be not to make the long gap between your last major expedition and Ama Dablam expedition. Try to do Ama Dablam within a year after you have accomplished your Step 2 expedition. Or if you are climbing technically challenging peaks around the world then the advice will be otherwise. In this way, your mind and body are still well attuned to climbing and taking on the tolls of climbing challenging mountains.

With all the experiences you have gained from your last 2+ expeditions you should be now ready with your technical ability, physically and mentally. Of course, as a mountain climber, you are training once you are back home and rested.

Amadablam is a climber’s mountain. Additionally to your minimum experiences which we have recommended above, you will need to be very proficient with the set of skills mentioned below and you will need exceptional physical fit. Clients are responsible to carry their own back pack (5-10kgs) once they leave base camp. Sherpa guide expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within you and your ability to climb. Must have skill sets -

• Rock climbing indoors and outdoors - (i) learn the basics of wearing harness and helmets (ii) tying figure 8 knot and stopper knot (iii) basics of using the belaying device correctly (iv) Use ascending and descending devices (iv) basics of using ropes, start/end when climbing (v) learning knowledge of moving while using the gears and being checking the safety features simultaneously.

• Regularly rock climbing up to 5.10 a,b,c +. The more experience you have in rock climbing, taking on tougher routes in different types of rock, the better it is for you to get familiar with the climbing style and adjust during the expeditions.

• Abseiling. This is the simplest yet, one of the most important skills to master. Some multi-pitch abseiling knowledge/experience is also required. Be prepared to descend down for a long duration from the summit to camp 2 or 1.

• Climbing on different terrains. Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains.

• Use of Crampons and Ice axe. Winter ice climbing or mountaineering courses are recommended. If you are particularly keen on climbing during the spring season, ice climbing skills up to WI-3 or WI-4 are required. During the autumn season climb, it is less likely you will be needing ice climbing skills. You should be able to kick step and balance with an ice axe on icy slopes to ascend on the vertical climbs. Ice arrest skills to save yourself in case of slips or falls, being comfortable while descending and abseiling with crampons in all types of terrains.

• Understanding how your body adjusts when climbing in Altitude. We will be climbing Island peak as a training/acclimatising peak. Your prior experience in climbing should give you a good understanding of how your body copes at high altitudes. You are responsible to build your fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatisation. Equally important clients have to be aware of their eating patterns and stay hydrated.

Expedition outcomes

• Further developing technical climbing skills at 6200M to 6800M level. Ready to take on higher or technical peaks.

• Understanding of full expedition setups

• Climbing/scrambling/traversing in mixed section. (i.e- rock/ice/snow) at higher altitudes above 6000M.

• Longer exposure to climbing on exposed sections. (i.e. Ridge and steep couloirs)

• Jumaring in fixed-line to climb vertical sections.

• Abseiling/Rappel in longer and exposed ridge sections.

• Testing your physical and mental ability and pure grit at extreme altitudes.

• Summits, uncountable memories, and further confidence to take on higher technical peaks.

Ama Dablam Expedition route

Bonus - Step 2. 1 even 8000ers or Pro level climbers (Grades TD+)

This is a bonus step. Many experienced climbers are attracted to the beauty of Ama Dablam. Even after completing 8000er peaks like Everest, Manaslu, Makalu, K2 climbers return to enjoy the climb at Ama Dablam. So if you have done 8000M peaks then you are qualified for Ama Dablam expedition. You will already have an understanding of big mountain expeditions and what it takes to climb challenging mountains.

Similarly, if you consider yourself a pro-level climber who can take on vertical 300M - 400M ice walls at higher altitudes then you are already set for Ama Dablam. Probably trying other challenging routes is more for climbers at this level. Why not try new projects and exciting feats in Ama Dablam. This peak has other 10 challenging routes so climbing those routes with your trusted partners is the one to explore. If you similarly want to join our yearly expeditions then please do inquire and join our team during Spring, when there are fewer climbers or during the late autumn then our team can organize an expedition for your group.

Are you planning to climb Ama Dablam Expedition? What is your experience level? Please go through our Alpine /fitness grades (link) to understand the difficulty and climbing grades of Ama Dablam and other peaks. We hope the guidance and suggestion on this blog post have helped you to have an understanding of what it takes to climb Ama Dablam. There are a lot of other factors when climbing any extremely high altitude technical peaks in the Himalayas. Our team can help you prepare in the best way gaining the right experience to complete your dream of climbing Ama Dablam 6810M peak.

Go challenge greater things. Commit and finally take on that dream adventures you have always been planning. Life is too short to live with regrets. See you in the mountains. 🙂🏔🙏🏼

Namas Adventure Team

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Baruntse 7129M expedition, 2021 Mountain status updates - Namas Adventure

Baruntse 7129M expedition, 2021 Mountain status updates - Namas Adventure

2021 Autumn Baruntse Expedition. Client member heading to Camp 1 via West col.

2021 wasn’t the year to be for any teams to successfully complete Baruntse Expedition. We had small team expeditions both during Spring and Autumn this year (2021).

Spring was a big risk with uncertainty around COVID 19. Still, we managed to get a small team of 3 members and after summiting Mera Peak, our team had settled at Baruntse Base camp 5460M and was preparing for our climb to camp 1. Soon enough our team and other teams, who have been together with us since Mera Peak learned that the person we came in contact with (a day before Mera peak climb) was evacuated to Kathmandu and tested positive for COVID. After learning this most of the teams decided to call off their expedition, since all the guide members and had been in contact with the sick person’s guiding team members, and any illness and evacuations at 6100M+ or around camp 1 and beyond would have been devastating.

Autumn, our team arrived up to camp 2 at 6400M but could not proceed further as we had a very unexpected storm and heavy snowfall (4ft - 5ft deep) for 4-5 days, our guides could not go past camp two and resorted back to base camp to wait for a clear window. After waiting out for 4 days our team went back to camp 1. Windspeeds were picking up to 60 - 70mph and a high risk of avalanche in the mountain was to follow up soon in the after 2 days. Our lead guide decided to call off the expedition since the client member did not want to add any additional days (5 - 7 days) to the expedition.

The only group or two people to summit Baruntse on (2021) spring was Marek Holecek and his climbing partner Radoslav Groh. They completed a new notorious route, climbing alpine style on the west face naming it “the heavenly trap” read more about their expedition on our blog post below ⬇️

We had previous (2019) reports that there is a huge crevasse opening when leading up to the summit but no one had a concrete certain report from 2020. Since Marek and Radoslav were the only two people to summit Baruntse in 2021 and returned via the southwest (normal expedition route) we approached him asking about any potential dangers and hazards in the mountains. Marek replied back to us with the following email. (Thank you very much Marek 🙏🏼).

Hi,

At about 6500 m there is a large transverse crack over the ridge, which at the time we were there went to overcome, but we had really a lot of snow there. The crack runs across the entire ridge. Now I don't know what it looks like. The second crack was around 6000 m, above the saddle we had to rope down. The crack at 6500 m was very dangerous.

Cheers Marek

_________________

Our expedition team could spot the hole/crack at 6000M.

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A post shared by Margarita (@sheisuptheresomewhere)

We will be organizing expeditions to Baruntse during 2022 and 2023 and it is great to learn about these potential dangers and hazards beforehand. Our guiding team can expect these hazards at 6500M and prepare an additional safety line around this particular ridge section. Any teams heading to Baruntse during 2022 or 2023 can use this information for their expedition too, after all, teamwork is key during the expeditions and we would like everyone to be safe in the mountains.

Want to plan your expeditions to Baruntse Peak 7129M or other high-altitude mountaineering expeditions in the Himalayas? Please inquire about your preferred expedition to our teams as we have several 6000M, 7000M, and 8000M expeditions running in the Himalayas every year.

See you in the mountains.

Live Your Story

Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit. The debate ends here - Namas Adventure

Manaslu Summit 8163M. True Summit.

The debate ends here.

Manaslu Summit ridge (Image by - Jackson Groves)

For years if not decades climbers have been debating about reaching the true summit(4) of Manaslu and where it actually is. Finally this year the drone shot captured by Jackson Groves during his Manaslu expedition made it clear as daylight to the world. His images clear the argument once and for all. Jackson himself mentions in his blog (Journeyera) that he stopped short at the fore summit and did not proceed to the main summit.

Mingma G seen climbing to the main summit. Majority of climbers previously stopped at the fore summit, claiming Manaslu 8163M Summit.

Image by - Jackson Groves (Journeyera)

Mingma G, who set up the fix-rope at the pinnacle snow point of the summit (true summit) along with the Himalayan database claimed that this was only achieved only after 45 years (1976). Others argue otherwise but now we can understand why reaching the true summit which is 20m-25m away from the fore summit (Shelf 2) is such a dangerous challenge to overcome at 8100M+ level.

The last section is very technical and exposed which has to be climbed down a few feet, traversed through steep, snow, and rocky slopes with more than a hundred-meter drop, and is clearly not for any inexperienced climbers.

Manaslu 8163M expedition is considered an introductory 8000M+ expedition to see how non-seasoned climbers handle themselves climbing at the death zone but the last section from the fore summit to the true summit is not for the inexperienced climbers. For one the climb is a very dangerous and technical climb this final section which won’t be able to handle any sort of traffic jams and any form of rescue in between is near to impossible. Only very experienced seasoned climbers who want to stamp their name on the elitist group whose aim to hold records or gather as many summits are advised or if you have several previous climbing experiences (not just 2 or 3) then going up to the real summit is advised. Also, bearing in mind now that the true summit is clear to many, most climbers will be attempting the pinnacle point hence traffic might become an issue in such a small section.

Summit Image by - Jackson Groves/ Journey Era

Prior to this year (Autumn 2021), Manaslu 8163M summit has been claimed by many but it turns out only a handful of climbers had been to the main summit. The Tolerance zone concept proposed by Stefan Nestler is particularly interesting. His concept suggests two types of summiteers -

The general summit group: Many who have claimed to be at the summit have gone back home believing that they have been to the true summit. This will definitely come as an annoyance to many but the majority of the climbers who do not care about being in the absolute elite list won’t be back to climb Manaslu just to climb the few last meters.

The elitist summit group: Are the absolutes who make no compromises even to the last stone or snow point at the very top to claim the true summit. These climbers will have to come back to update their summit records.

Moving forward climbers who want to climb Manaslu as an introductory 8000M expedition will have to think really hard and make a sensible decision before venturing further away from the fore summit to the true summit. For the ones who want to be on the elite table list, the debate has ended and the true summit is clear. Operators too will have to be clear about the true summit and fore summit plans.

So, as the debate ends, are you planning to climb Manaslu 8163M in near future? Namas Adventure/Expedition team will be planning our expedition strategy to the true summit. However, to the non-seasoned climbers, the option of climbing the fore summit is still possible with our team.

See you in the mountains.

Go. Live Your Story.

Ama Dablam Expedition : A Climbers’ Guide - Namas Adventure

Ama Dablam Expedition : A Climbers’ Guide

Summit push on Ama Dablam expedition, Nepal

Mountain Overview

 

Elevation: 6810M / 23389FT

Co-ordinates: 27.8619° N, 86.8612° E

Location: Khumbu Region

Parent Mountain: None

Summits: 1 Main summit

Country: Nepal

About the Mountain

Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountains in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Ama Dablam is the 3rd highest permit to be issued by NMA. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is referred to as the mountaineer’s mountain and is considered "a must-do" for alpinists and mountaineers. Ama Dablam is also referred to as the Matterhorn of Nepal.

History

Ama Dablam was first summited on 13th March 1961, a Silver hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (US), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ),

How to get here?

There is one main trekking route to get to Ama Dablam base camp.

1. Via Lukla - Namche Bazzar - Pangboche - Ama Dablam Base Camp (Hiking)

Ama Dablam Routes

Ama Dablam 6810M

• Southwest Ridge (Commercial expedition route)

• 1979 Lowe Route on the South Face (VI AI4 M5 1200m)

• 1979 North Ridge (VI 5.7 70deg 1600m)

• 1981 Northeast Spur to North Ridge (VI 5.7 70deg 1500m)

• 1983 East Ridge (VI 80deg 1500m)

• 1984 Southwest Ridge

• 1985 West face (VI 5.7 65deg 1400m)

• 1985 Northeast Face (VI mixed 90deg 1400m)

• 1996 Northwest face (VI 5.7 AI5 A2+ 1650m)

• 1996 North Ridge

• 2001 Northwest Ridge

Note - Climbers planning to climb this Ama Dablam without guide support or solo projects are advised to take other routes than (Southwest ridge) because it conflicts with the commercial expedition.

Permits

Required. Permit costs $400 (Spring and Autumn) and $200, Winter. Liaison officer charges apply.

When to climb Ama Dablam?

Spring season (April - May) if you prefer to see fewer climbing teams in the mountains.

Autumn (Mid October - November) is more famous and expect to see many teams and traffic during this season.

Winter ( Mid December - Mid February)

Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M

Ama Dablam Base Camp 4529M

A few hours away from Pangboche, the Ama Dablam base camp sits at 4529M. This will be the home for many climbers for their entire climbing duration. The base camp is set up on grassy lands just beneath the mountain. A cell tower has been set up close to the Ama Dablam base camp, providing climbers with inconsistent internet access, but still decent service. An old yak hut has been transformed into a tea house, which is a short distance from the base camp. Independent climbers can use this as their permanent base camp or store their gear.

Camp 1, 5800M

It takes about 5-6 hours to reach Camp 1 from the base camp of Ama Dablam. Along the way, climbers will come across Yak Camp, which can also serve as an advanced base camp. However, the availability of water at this campsite is limited, so many teams do not use it or only use it for acclimatization rotations. The route to Camp 1 involves traversing rocky boulders and an exposed, somewhat loose ridge, which is typically dry during the autumn season. Camp 1 can accommodate 10-12 tents, which are set on the slopes of rocky boulders. Overcrowding can be an issue when all teams are planning their final summit bids at the same time.

Camp 2, 6100M (Yellow Tower)

The journey from Camp 1 to Camp 2 can take about 4 to 6 hours. After leaving Camp 1, climbers will have to clip onto the fixed ropes to make their way to the next camp. The route follows a steep ridge, exposed on both sides, with stable routes on the way to Camp 2. As climbers traverse the boulders and snow, they will face the final challenge of the day: the daunting "Yellow Tower," a vertical wall at an 80 to 90-degree angle. Climbing with all the necessary gear can be quite a challenge, so it is important for climbers to be prepared for this part of the ascent. The Yellow Tower climb can be graded at a 5.10 rock climbing level.

During the busy season, finding a spot in Camp 2 can be difficult as it only accommodates 7 to 8 tents. If the camp becomes overcrowded, additional makeshift camps may need to be set up on the edges. While this camp may not be suitable for those who are easily intimidated, it offers breathtaking views.

Camp 3 or 2.9,

Climbing towards camp 3, Ama Dablam

Camp 3 depends a lot on the condition of the snow and ice in the mountain. (It is most likely to be set up during the spring season rather than autumn.) The route goes from the back of the tower and is a very exposed section. Depending on the season, climbers will have to traverse on ice or granite slabs. Rockfalls can occur when there are many other climbing teams ahead. Some climbers have even reported rocks the size of a soccer ball. The climb up is 70-80 degrees vertical, and upon traversing, climbers will reach the uncompromising mushroom ridge.

As you navigate this section of the climb, you will encounter many new and old fixed ropes. It is important to pay attention and make sure you are clipping onto the correct rope, especially when climbing in the dark. After traversing a steep couloir and steadily making your way up the ridge, you will reach the area for Camp 3. After approximately 5 hours of climbing, many teams choose to skip this camp and continue directly to the summit. When you reach the base of the pyramid, the summit will be located above the Dablam slopes.

Camp 3, Ama Dablam. Photo by - Irina Galay

Ama Dablam Summit 6810M

Climbing further up on 55-65 degree slopes will lead to the final stretch before reaching the summit. Expect to climb for more than 10+ hours if you are planning to ascend directly from camp 2. The summit of Ama Dablam is a wide and broad plateau. On a clear day Mt. Everest, Makalu 8463M, and Baruntse 7129M ranges are clearly seen.

Prayer flags at Ama Dablam summit 6810M

Your climb is half done at this point. Abseiling down to camp 3 is straightforward, although some climbers wrap the ropes around their arms and make a speedy descent, which is not recommended. The mushroom ridge and couloir areas can be challenging during the descent, as they can be gnarly and tiring. It's important to stay focused and on top of your climbing skills, as you may already be fatigued from the climb to the summit. Once you've successfully crossed these challenging sections, you will arrive at camp 2.

We usually plan to spend the night at this camp, but very fit climbers may be able to descend further down to Camp 1. However, descending the Yellow Tower is not easy either; it's a 90-degree descent, so be sure to have enough strength left to rappel down and traverse the uncomfortable granite before reaching Camp 1. The descent to Base Camp is straightforward, where your comfortable camp awaits.

Express Itinerary

With the use of helicopters after the summit, the expedition can be shortened up to 21 days. Flying from Ama Dablam BC to Lukla or Kathmandu.

Some climbers arrive in Nepal with hypoxic pre-acclimatization training and do a speed climb on several mountains including Ama Dablam.

Further extensions

(i) Baruntse expedition.

Baruntse 7129M mountain peak can be your further extension going higher into a 7000M altitude zone. Additional 15 days will be required to take on this remote peak in the Makalu/Barun valley.

Makalu 8463M Expedition

Continued further down via Amphu Lhabtsa pass, towards Baruntse west col and then finally climbing down via Sherini col to arrive at Makalu base camp to climb. Extra 20 - 25 days required to climb Makalu (with contingency days) We highly recommend spring season if you are to plan Makalu expedition as the weather is more stable during spring than the autumn season.

Are you planning to climb Ama Dablam someday in the near future? If yes then our team specializes in remote mountain peaks in the Himalayan region. We go where few ventures, safely access and navigate these parts of the Himalayas, creating new possibilities in the mountains.

For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

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Baruntse Peak: A Climbers’ Guide - Namas Adventure

Baruntse Peak: A Climbers’ Guide

South East Ridge route, Baruntse Expedition

Mountain Overview

 

Elevation: 7129M / 23389FT

Co-ordinates: 27°52′18″N 86°58′48″E

Location: Makalu / Barun Valley

Parent Mountain: None

Summits: 3 Fore Summit / 1 Main Summit

Country: Nepal

About the Mountain

Baruntse peak 7129M is located in the Himalayan region of Nepal, just between Lhotse 8516M and Makalu 8463M. Crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho to the north-west by the Imja glacier, and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. Baruntse mountain stretch has four ridges and four summits. The three main ridges are situated between the glaciers, the fourth main summit lies to the west near Cho Polu peak.

History

Baruntse was first climbed on 30 May 1954, via the south ridge by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

How to get here?

There are three main routes to get to Baruntse Base Camp.

1. Via Mera Peak acclimatisation / route

2. Via Imja lake route, climbing Amphu Lhabtsa pass 5800

3. Via Sherpini col 5600M from Makalu route

Baruntse Routes

RED Route (Heavenly trap - 2021) and Blue Route (Russian Efimov 1995)

• Southeast Ridge (Normal/safest Expedition route)

• West Face (Heavenly trap) route, May 2021 - Two-time Piolet d'Or recipient Marek "Mara" Holecek and fellow Czech climber Radoslav "Radar" Groh completed a new route ascent to Baruntse 7129M in alpine style via the west face route which they named as “Heavenly trap” (ABO+: VI+ M6+ 80°, 1300m).

• Russian Efimov Route 1995

• East Ridge - 1980 by Lorenzo Ortas, Javier Escartín, Jeronimo Lopez (all Spain) and Carlos Buhler (America) of a Spanish expedition led by Juan José Díaz Ibañez.

Barutnse Base Camp 5640M

Baruntse Base Camp 5460M

Baruntse base camp is at 5640M, a few kilometers further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, it is easy to cross East Col to West col and reaching Camp 1 (6,146 M) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier.

West Col 5800M

210M high, 45-degree climb on a vertical snow, rock, and ice wall to reach the ridge section. This is the first technical and objective challenge to overcome at the 5800M level.

Camp 1, 6100M

After climbing up the West col, traversing through the ridge, and hiking further down climbers will come across an open area to set up their camp 1. Normally, Baruntse camp 1 sits at 6100M level after climbing the vertical wall and traversing towards the wide-open flowing Barun glacier.

Camp 2, 6400M

Camp 2 is not far from camp 2 rather a gradual steep hill to climb and gain some altitude on the fore mountains of Baruntse. Climbing mostly on ice/snow section camp 2 is established at 6400M elevation just below the steep section which is the path for summit push.

Camp 2, Baruntse 6400M

Summit 7129M

Summit push is where most of the climb is done during the Baruntse climb. Snow and ice conditions differ every year as with most of the mountains. Fixed-line ropes are usually fixed only above camp 2. The climb from camp 2 is mostly a steep uphill climb until climbers reach the ridge/cornice section around 6600M.

The climb from here onwards is the most technical part of the climb. Fixed-line ropes will be been set up by the Sherpa team and the climb is mostly on the exposed and steep, climbing/traversing mostly on the cornice formed on the ridge of the entire Baruntse mountain. Baruntse has 3 false summits with the final summit being the farthest. The summit of Baruntse is only a small surface area on the main summit.

Climbers will have to descend the same way back. Extra caution is required as this will be 4-5 hours of the slow and tiring way back with the goal to reach camp 1.

Express Itinerary

With the use of helicopters after the summit, the expedition can be shortened up to 23 to 24 days. Flying from Baruntse Base camp 5460M to Lukla.

Further extensions

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(i) Makalu Exped

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(ii) Ama Dablam Exped

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(iii) Lobuche East & Island

(i) Makalu expedition. Continued further down via Sherpini col and then arrive at Makalu base camp to climb. Extra 20 - 25 days required to climb Makalu (with contingency days) We highly recommend spring season if you are to plan Makalu expedition as the weather is more stable during spring than the autumn season.

(ii) Ama Dablam and Island Peak. Climb the famous and stunningly beautiful Ama Dablam. A technical climbing challenge. Can be planned during both Spring (less climbers) and Autumn (busier many climbers expected) season.

(iii) Island Peak and Lobuche East. Bag some more 6000M+ expedition in the Khumbu valley

Bonus: Amphu Lhabtsa Pass

Amphu Labtsa pass is a glaciated pass located at the head of the Honku valley. The base of the valley is located at 5,000 m (16,400 ft) and contains several glacial lakes. Amphu Lapcha is zigzag glaciers formations with base camps at North and south where we have to stop for a camp night. View from Amphu Labtsa passes Imja valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island peak, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, just awesome.

Are you planning to climb Baruntse 7129M mountain peak someday in the near future? If yes then our team specializes in remote mountain peaks in the Himalayan region. We go where few ventures, safely access and navigate these parts of the Himalayas, creating new possibilities in the mountains.

For more information on our Baruntse expedition or Baruntse Express expedition or any of our other international expeditions check out our website. (Call/WhatsApp) - +44 7446976060 or send us an email at bookings@namasadventure.com

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11 other essentials items for Mountaineering expedition: Easy to forget but super useful in the mountains - Namas Adventure

11 other essentials items for Mountaineering expedition: Easy to forget but super-useful in the mountains

Mountaineering expeditions are tricky and when it comes to packing our gears it never ends. Pack, unpack, repack, re-check tour list and repack again. Wait for a few days and you feel you have missed something or you are wondering how can I make my pack lighter & smaller. So begins the process of organizing it and repacking it again. Our guess is you will never be satisfied with the process.

In this post, we have listed 11 essential items that may not look handy but are super useful during your mountaineering expedition. These items are not super-must and are easy to miss but having them in your pack can make your life a little bit easier during your expedition. Consider it mountain luxury at your disposal, adding a bit of comfort to your expedition.

Lip guards (Yes, more than one) & Sunscreen cream SPF 50, 70, or 100 (Also more than one)

SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays

SPF 100 blocks 99% of UVB ray

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Extra socks and gloves

We highly suggest you pack at least 1-2 pairs of expedition socks and gloves. There are days when you don’t feel like doing your laundry and having that extra socks is comfort on its own. Gloves are tricky, great if you don’t loose one, but if you do having that backup pair is key as you won’t be able to climb without your gloves. That we can guarantee and frostbite is not the ideal situation you want to experience.

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Smart wool expedition socks

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Black Diamond Expedition gloves

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BD screen tap gloves

Cold/warm air Mask regulator

This is one of the tools that we would consider essential for every climber. I It is amazing that many climbers are now attempting higher expeditions above 8000M+ like Everest, Makalu, Manaslu etc without supplement O2. (Kudos to the human potential and one’s motivation of pushing themselves) Or even climbing at 6000ers to 70000ers like Baruntse, Himlung, etc peaks. The air is so thin, dry, and crip cold that it takes a toll on our nose. Gross, it may sound but climbers know the issue of the clogged up nose and trying to get rid of this booger and breathing in cold air which is a struggle on its own. These air mark regulators are a godsend. It helps retain the moisture and regulate the cold air you breathe in to somewhat tolerable and a little warm. These are slowly becoming a must-have choice for many professional climbers. We can recommend two products which are listed below.

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Airtrim mask

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Pro softshell

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Pro softshell

Thermos flask with a cup

Super handy when things are flexible and accessible especially when camping in high camps. That sip of warm water or tea is a god send and a booster. Imagine just having a cup when you want to drink water in your camps, the value of it is immense.

Nose/cheek Shielder

Nothing fancy here the UV rays from the sun and the cold air might be harsh on your cheeks and nose especially. So taping up can protect it from burning up.

Satellite communicator

Want to give peace of mind to your friends and families during your expeditions? Then satellite communicators are your answer. Garmin and other providers allow you to send messages to your loved ones or audience to keep track of your expeditions. (Works in most of the Himalayas Expeditions) You will have to use their subscription plans to be able to connect to the internet and use the features. The great news is you can use their FREEDOM plan when you are in the mountains and cancel it once you are back home.

Inreach Explorer

Inreach Mini

Extra batteries, power banks and portable solar panels:

Solar technology keeps advancing and that’s great news for everyone. Highly recommend getting portable solar panels that you can just hang on your bag when juicing up your batteries and devices. Especially when you are in the remote corners of the Himalayas or other mountains, the sun is the only source of energy on clear days so you will want to make the best out of it and recharge all those batteries. Goal Zero makes some amazing portable solar panels and other devices that we can highly recommend for expeditions.

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Extra Sunglasses

Nothing is more frustrating than losing or breaking your glasses when climbing in the mountains. Reflections from the sun are harsh and strong or even during gloomy days you must have a pair or even impossible to climb without a good visual. So always have an extra glass as a backup option. Plenty of brands out there but we are in love with JULBO pairs 😍.

Pee bottles

One can only understand the comfort of having a pee bottle when you are inside your tent and the temperature outside is freezing below -10C. Having a pee bottle at your reach is always handy when you do not have to keep getting out into the cold and dark to just your little business. That’s why we consider this, one of the musts.

Pro tip: Comes super handy when you are driving and you don’t have a place to make you wee stop 😅.

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Adjustable Urine bottle

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Female Pee Funnel

Nuts, Bars and Energy gels

You will always need that constant supply of nutrients in any form. Be it in solid-food form or liquid through the water. So having nuts, bars, or energy gels is always handy which are pocketable and easier to carry and just reach out when climbing or just resting. There’s plenty of amazing brands out there in the market. Cliff bars, High5 nutrition, SIS, etc

Wet wipes

Showers are a luxury during expeditions and it’s hard to maintain a constant flow of water at some locations or even non-existent. Wet wipes are your answers then. For the most part during the long mountain expedition, climbers understand that they may not be able to take shower for an extended period of time but we can adapt. Take a wet wipe shower (at least that’s what we call it) is a perfect alternative.

Do you have an item that you think is a must, on long expeditions that makes your life a little bit comfortable in the mountains? Please comment below.

And if you are planning mountain adventure in the Himalayas then our team is here at your service. We have yearly 6000M peak expeditions like Mera peak or Chulu West peak for beginners and experienced level climbers. 7000ers such as Baruntse 7129M Peak or Himlung Himal 7134M peak for the explorers or challenge seekers who want to climb higher peaks. 8000ers such as Manaslu 8163M or Makalu 8485M for the ones that want to get into the death zone and summit the Big E, Mt. Everest.

Explore More. Go.

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Namas Adventure team

Everything you need to know about Tilicho Peak 7134M Expedition - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about

TILICHO PEAK 7134M EXPEDITION

Tilicho base camp is set on the east side of the Mountain at 4900M

1. When is the best time to climb Tilicho peak?

Autumn (September - Mid November) is the best time to organise Tilcho Peak 7134M expedition.

2. How much does Tilicho 7134M Expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?

With Namas Adventure/Expedition team, your Tilicho expedition costs $9050 | £7050 | €8100 P/P. We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead. We explore the least climbed and remote peaks in the Himalayas and around the globe.

List of what’s included in your booking.

1. IFMGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader

2. $500 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)

3. Namas Branded merchandise (800 or 900 Fill Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

4. 1:2 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)

5. Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the numbers in climbing team members)

6. Arrival hotel in Kathmandu

7. All trekking and climbing permits (ACAP region Permit and TIMS)

8. All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

9. Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas

10. 40 kgs personal weight

11. Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)

12. Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts

13. Burners and expedition equipment

14. Walkie talkie/ Satellite phone

15. Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

16. Lodge accommodation during the trek

17. Porters per guest

18. Arrival pick up and departure

19. Internal flights

20. Basic First aid kit

21. Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

3. The first ascent of Tilicho peak 7134M.

Tilicho Peak was first climbed by a French expedition led by Emanuel Schmutz in 1978 via the North West Shoulder.

4. How many climbing routes are there to climb Tilicho Peak?

Officially Tilicho peak has only been summited via the northwest shoulder.

5. What experience do climbers need to climb Tilicho Peak expedition? Are guides necessary?

Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 6000M and several technical peaks of with alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Tilicho peak mountain. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get a wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc.

Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections, traversing on mountain slopes and climbing through spurs on the routes. Climbers must be highly efficient with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains, and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.

This expedition is not for intermediate experience level climbers.

Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.

6. How many high camps are there on this expedition?

Strategically on Tilicho peak expedition, we will have 2 to 3 high-altitude camps.

• Camp 1 (5800M)

• Camp 2 (6200M)

• Camp 3 (6600M) - possibility after assessing the weather, snow/ice and other objective dangers in the mountains.

7. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Tilicho peak expedition?

Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high-altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions, it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at a high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.

During the expedition, our team will do a couple of rotations between camps 1 and 2 to acclimatize and get familiar with the routes. This gives our body to acclimatize at the extreme altitude and drop supplies at higher camps.

Note - If you want to shorten your Tilicho Peak (Express) itinerary to 24-25 days Namas team can make those arrangements.

8. What training is required/experience for Tilicho Peak expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?

Tilicho peak is graded at D+ (Fitness level) and by no means should this expedition be taken lightly and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M or 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, past climbing experiences, knowledge all play a vital role in order to successfully complete this expedition.

We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. And nothing beats the good old ways of climbing other smaller peaks and testing yourself before your main expedition. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

9. How hard is Tilicho Peak climbing expedition?

Tilicho Peak expedition is graded at D+/ 4 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).

We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 14 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.

When we depart from Tilicho base camp 4900M our first objective challenge is to reach camp 1 navigating the ridge of North shoulder climbing through. spurs and steep 70 to 90 degree climbs to reach camps 1 and 2. Mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, and traversing on exposed ridges.

Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. and the wind starts to pick up. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment as we climb to gain 500+M to reach the summit and descend down back to camp 1. You can expect to climb for around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend as any normal climbs. Our base camp team members meanwhile will be waiting for your arrival. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges. 

10. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Tilicho Peak climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for this expedition climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)

Boots for Mount Tilicho peak 7134M Expedition

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

More 8000M boots link here (other media article)

11. What types of foods are available during Tilicho Peak Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition

On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our tilicho base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.

In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.

12. What trip insurance will I need for this Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon. 

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

13. Next climbing goals after Tilicho Peak Expedition climbing

Once you complete your objective of climbing Tilicho Peak you can start to plan further into other technical high altitude peaks that satisfy your climbing objective.

1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition

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Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest as Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.

2. Mera, Baruntse and Makalu (Triple Combo) or Baruntse with Mera Peak

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Makalu 8463M

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Baruntse 7129M

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Mera Peak 6476M

Makalu Triple combo climbing expedition is one of the exciting mountain climbing expedition we organise at Namas Adventure. Climb the 5th highest peak in the world which is technically challenging but with a mix of climbing Mera Peak 6476M as your acclimatisation peak and Baruntse 7129M as your training peak. Mera Peak will be the most comfortable climbing peak helping you acclimatise and then we proceed onto the next 7000M peak objective of climbing Baruntse. The idea is to summit a 6000M+ peaks then to 7000M+ peak and then finally a 8000M peak.

Baruntse peak 7129M is one of the most remote peak sitting between Makalu and Everest/Lhotse. We will use this expedition to acclimatise further and also to train/refresh our climbing skills at higher altitude. Climbing Baruntse peak should further prepare us for taking on our final objective of climbing Makalu. After summiting Baruntse we then proceed towards Makalu base camp descending down via Sherpani col route.

Makalu 8463M will be the ultimate goal for this expedition. A mix of technical climb and extreme altitude this climb does not come easy. This expedition challenge is perfect after Everest expedition. You will need a serious endurance and strength in your fitness tank. Make this part of your climbing how ever it suits you. Some climbers want to climb all 14 X 8000M peaks or just another 8000M peak climbing achievement. What ever your goal Makalu is one of the best expedition to take on before or after Everest expedition.

We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your ultiamate dream of climbing Mt. Everest. If you are looking for a great climbing team and want to have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Mt. Everest Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on Everest summit successfully. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

3. Manaslu 8163M Expedition

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Want to experience 8000M+ a death zone altitude and gain the right experience for Everest or other higher extreme altitude climb? Manaslu Expedition is for any aspiring mountaineers who are considering climbing an 8,000m peak or higher. Manaslu has to be one of the preferred options if you are looking to climb the 8000M peaks and is also a necessary option to get that 8000M experience before attempting to climb Mount Everest. The expedition begins with trek to Manaslu trails passing through the village at the foot of the mountain where then arrive at Manaslu Base Camp to begin the climb.

4. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal

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Your ultiamte expedition climbing to the Roof of the world. Mt. Everest Expedition.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Other related articles:

• Training and fitness for Mountain climbing

• Nutrition for Mountaineering

• Mountaineering Equipment/Gears checklist

• Altitude Sickness

Himlung Himal Expedition (Experience, fitness level and skills) requirements - Namas Adventure

HIMLUNG HIMAL EXPEDITION

EXPERIENCES, FITNESS AND SKILLS

Himlung Himal Summit 7126M.

What previous experience is required to climb Himlung Himal?

When planning a Himlung Himal expedition, it is important to consider your previous climbing experience. This 7000M+ peak presents a number of challenges, including the need for comfort and experience with ropes, climbing gear, and fixed-line techniques, as well as the ability to withstand cold and potentially adverse weather conditions.

While Himlung Himal may not be the most technically demanding of the 7000M peaks in Nepal, it is still a significant undertaking that requires a strong level of skill and preparedness. If you have limited climbing experience, this peak may be a good option to start your journey into 7000M+ expeditions. Its relatively high success rate and the fact that it requires the use of gear and fixed lines make it a suitable choice for those looking to build their skills and confidence. Regardless of your level of experience, it is crucial to be physically and mentally prepared for the demands of this expedition.

Preferred Previous mountaineering experiences

Anywhere above 4000M - 6500M+ peaks with semi-technical to technical climbs around the world. For example Alpamayo, Huscaran, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya, Denali, Mt. Blanc, Mt lenin, Ebrus. The general term is any semi-technical to technical peaks that are higher and have longer ascend and descend sections. These experiences do qualify you to take on Baruntse and other 7000M peaks in the Himalayas.

Fitness level - 4

We have graded fitness level 4 for Mount Himlung. An exceptional level of all-around fitness will be required to cope with the exceptionally strenuous nature of these expeditions. An exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required. The mental toughness aspect is equally required. Experience is required to be able to take on tours of this physical grading.

The difficult issue is how you train for such exceptional conditions. Hard work will be required to get to that fitness level. For a General fitness indication, climbers should be able to run a half marathon or be able to cycle for 2 -3 hours. If you prefer hiking, you should be able to carry a load of 20 kilograms and hike for 3 to 4 hours.

Good strength and muscle endurance training routines can be implemented with a variety of approaches such as taking part in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training.

Himlung Himal camp 2, 6100M

Skills to be learned.

Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it real simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know.

1. Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.

2. Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.

3. Climbing, traversing, and hiking with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.

4. Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.

5. As climbers joining Himlung Himal expedition will already have previous experiences, we recommend climbers to have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.

With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up and you’ve got the necessary skills and experience all you need to be is physically and mentally prepared that is your commitment to fitness training.

Challenge yourself.

Go. Live Your Story

Are you planning to climb a remote, rugged, and challenging 7000M+ peak with substantially less objective danger? Whether your goal is simply to climb an extremely high altitude peak, explore and climb remote peaks in Nepal, or progress to higher 8000M+ peaks then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.

Mount Everest Expedition, climbing strategy - Namas Adventure

Mount Everest Expedition, climbing strategy

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Everest Base Camp - Expedition moments

The Everest, as in the mountaineering, is the greatest goal of climbing adventures. As a mountaineering challenge, it has attracted people to come and explore this breathtaking Himalayan mountain. The most desirable achievement accomplishing here is to climb to the summit of Mt. Everest 8848M.

There is a system that every Everest climber should follow to increase the likelihood of success. It’s based on experience, planning and skill but there are other factors too such as clear weather window, sheer persistence and training. Our expert team of Everest expedition strategists take all the factors involved and build a plan that ensures your dream becomes a reality, not just once but time and time again. Everest results from the combination of a great strategy and a system. If you decide to join an Everest expedition, you will be dealt with professional guides who will do everything they can to ensure you reach the summit. We give you a structured game plan to assure that you’ll get to base camp and one day, to the summit of Mount Everest.

Everest Base Camp 5346M

We take a slow trek through the world's iconic Everest base camp trek, acclimatising and getting the perspective of the local region. Our first goal will be to summit Lobuche east as our acclimatisation peak. After that our team heads towards our final camp to settle in Everest base camp.

If you want to invite your family or friends to join you until Everest Base camp or Lobuche East Peak climb (Beginner/Intermediate) then you can find more information on the link below or please mail us to make those arrangements.

For more information on Everest Base Camp (Click here)

Lobuche East 6119M climb for training and acclimatisation

We use Lobuche East peak as our acclimatisation and training peak. Mount Lobuche East 6119M is another popular 6,000M climbing peak in Nepal. This peak will provide us a perfect starting point to refresh our skills, climb a 6000M+ peak to get our body acclimated to high altitude, and enjoy the climb with our fellow expedition members. As this will be the group’s first climb together, this will give our guides a better understanding of where each climber are in terms of confidence, fitness and skills.

We will be using base camp and high camp before we summit Lobuche East mountain and head back to base camp and rest for a night there before we move towards Everest BC.

Everest Base Camp 5346M

Preparation will have already begun even before the arrival of climbers at the base camp. Our base camp manager and the team will have already set up our individual camps, storage camps, comms-media stations, toilet-showers, kitchen-dining tents, and Namas base camp HQ for all other briefing purposes.

Puja Ceremony

All of our expeditions only begin after a Puja ceremony. Where a dedicated Lama Guru (head Monk) will conduct the ceremony. He will recite the prayers to The Mountain gods asking for well-being, safety, safe passage and a successful expedition. All climbers will be requested to take part in the ceremony as this is very important for the guides and your climbing gears will also be blessed during the puja.

Training at Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall. (Ladders, fixed lines training) 5486M / 17998ft

After settling at base camp, this is where all the climbing team will reside for the next 40+ days. Climbing ladders to cross the great Khumbu icefall is the first real objective/technical challenge when climbing Everest. So, we focus a large portion of our training on getting used to crossing these ladders. Another part of our training will be climbing on the glaciers which are near to our base camp. Here we will further refine our skills by climbing vertical ice walls using fixed ropes and ice axe. We do our best to mimic the environment in the icefall and train walking on the step ladder step by step. By the time we start our way to climb Khumbu icefall to climb up to camp 1, all climbers will have a good understanding of crossing the ladders and will also be guided personally in real-time.

How many rotations: Each time we go from base camp to Camp 1 we will have to cross Khumbu ice fall.

When will climbers sleep here: No, we do not sleep here.

Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)

Camp 1 Everest Expedition

Camp 1 is will be setup once Khumbu Icefall challenge is crossed. The camp is setup below the Nuptse in an icy and snowy surface. The route gets even from here onwards up to camp 2. This will be the first area where climbers will have to share tents and accommodate in an alpine environment.

How many rotations: 2 rotations

When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly.

Camp 2 (6400M/20997ft)

Hike from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a fairly even one out of all the climb during the entire expedition. The route is a pass sitting right between Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse face right in front when climbers hike.

How many rotations: 2 rotation

When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and when descending back from the summit.

Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M / 23622ft+)

Camp 3 sits at a steep section of Lhotse's face. This climb and will be one of the most strenuous uphill climbs using fixed-line ropes from camp 2 to camp 3. Camps here are one of the most dangerous ones as they are set up in small ledges/pockets where it is suitable. We ask all our climbers to make sure their safety ropes are tied onto the main safety ropes as there have been many falls and incidents, particularly during nighttime.

How many rotations: 2 rotation

When will climbers sleep here?: Climbers will sleep here during acclimatization rotation mostly and possibly when descending back from the summit if they are too tired to make it to camp 2.

South Col (Camp 4) (7906M / 25938ft)

This will the final camp before heading to the summit. The camp sits at 7906M just 100M below the Death Zone area. Climbers will be using oxygen bottles when they are in their tents as the air is very thin here. From the South Col to the summit it is about 1.7-1.9 miles and usually takes from 6 to 9 hours or more. We will begin our summit bid just before midnight with a steep climb up the Southside of Everest. Upon reaching the Balcony at 27,500 feet, climbers turn West up the ridge to the South Summit, over the Hillary Step onto the Summit Ridge, and then to the summit.

How many rotations: None

When will climbers sleep here?: 1 night

Summit of Everest (8848.86M / 29031.69 ft)

Hillary ridge - Everest expedition

Our aim will be to stand at the summit around 7 - 8 am in morning. The climb to the summit will be one of the hardest and toughest part of the entire expedition. As we leave the south col, first we will have to climb a steep hill about 30-40 degrees to the balcony of the south side of Everest. From there with the support of fixed-line rope we jummar and ascend climbing on the southeast ridge to the south summit. Here we rest and replace our new O2 cylinder and after regaining our energy, climb to cornice traverse, then to Hillary's step, and finally reach the summit or roof of the world, Everest. For most climbers, once they climb the Hillary step it will roughly take 30min to reach the summit of Everest.

Once on the summit, we rejoice our moment, celebrate take pictures and soak it all in before we gather our moment and get ready to head back down to our camps. The duration of your summit depends upon how long the good weather window will remain open. Remember on any mountain climb the summit is only halfway done. Heading down is another dangerous part there have been many incidents. We slowly make our way through the same route to South Col camp with our aim to stop at Camp 2. The entire climb will be about 10 - 16 hours depending on the fitness level of climbers.

Are planning to climb and summit to the roof of the World one day? We run expedition to Everest every year (2023) taking all your climbing personal needs into accounts as well as implementing responsible and sustainable strategy in our expedition strategy. Our team is here to assist you in making your dream of climbing Everest being safe with tons of fun and being responsible & sustainable during our expeditions. Email us at bookings@namasadventure.com to inquire.

Live Your Dream. Live Your Story

Everything you need to know about MT. Everest 8848M Expedition - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about

MT. Everest 8848M Expedition

Note - Mt. Everest is officially a little higher. 8848.86M / 29,031.69FT (2020 new measurement)

Everest Expedition 8848M

1. When is the best time to climb Mt. Everest?

Spring (April-May) is the best time to climb Everest. All major commercial expeditions are organised during spring.

Some expeditions are conducted arranged during Autumn but the likely hood of avalanches is significantly higher compared to spring.

2. How much does Mt. Everest expedition cost? What does it include? How is Namas operating the expedition differently?

With Namas Adventure team, your Everest expedition costs $60,000 per person. We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. 🚁 Helicopter services to Lukla and rest day rotations BC - Namche Bazaar - BC and return to Lukla after your summit. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their climbing holiday and fun times ahead.

List of what’s included in your booking.

1. IMFGA/NNMGA certified Guide leader

2. $1000 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)

3. 🚁 Helicopter Charter From Kathmandu - Lukla. Base Camp - Namche Bazaar - BC. Everest Base Camp - Lukla (After expedition ends)

4. Namas Branded merchandise (800 or 900 Fill Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

5. 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. ( Additional 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)

6. Head chef and kitchen helpers (Helpers increase with the numbers in climbing team members)

7. 4 Oxygen cylinder (Additional Cylinder $500 per O2 cylinder)

8. Arrival hotel in Kathmandu

9. All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)

10. All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

11. Expedition tents (2 or 1 person tents) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas

12. Lobuche East or Pumori Peak acclimatisation peak

13. 60 kgs personal weight

14. Freezed dried meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc)

15. Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts

16. Burners and expedition equipment

17. Walkie talkie/ Satellite phone

18. Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

19. Lodge accommodation during the trek

20. Porters per guest

21. Arrival pick up and departure

22. Internal flights

23. Basic First aid kit

24. Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

How we are operating our Mt. Everest expedition differently?

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We will have a dedicated high altitude porter/s to bring our waste down from Camp 1 & 2 to Base Camp. Client leading Sherpa team will assist and bring the waste down from camps 3 & 4 to camp 2 during rotation and summit descend.

Once (Waste) is at the base camp it will be further sealed and transported via yak down in the valley at a proper dump fill site. We firmly believe when running expedition operations in our mountains we have a moral duty to protect it and keep it clean for future generations to come.

There’s a concern for our mountains being polluted and the waste being left in the mountains. Everyone should be rightly concerned. With that in mind and our commitment to our sustainable values, we are implementing these tactics and will further build on our program.

4. The first ascent and debate

Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit on 29 May 1953 as part of the British expedition led by Lord John Hunt from the Nepal south col side. There is also the debate on whether George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reached the top of Everest from North side (tibet), on the final push of the 1924 expedition. They went missing soon after. No one knows whether they reached the top, a feat that, if proved, would rewrite climbing history.

5. The oldest and youngest person to climb Mt. Everest

The range of ages among those who have climbed Everest is staggering. The oldest person was Yuichiro Miura from Japan at 80 in 2013, while the youngest was American Jordan Romero at 13 in 2010.

A number of disabled climbers have reached the summit, including blind American Erik Weihenmayer in 2001 and double amputee Mark Inglis from New Zealand in 2006.

6. How many people have died on Everest?

Sadly 308 people have died on Everest, between 1922 and 2021. 165 have died on the Nepali side, while the remainder died on the Tibetan North side.

On 18 April 2014, 16 high-altitude local workers, including 13 Sherpas, were killed in the Khumbu Icefall below Camp 1, following a serac collapse on the mountain’s west shoulder. It was the worst single loss of life in the mountain’s history.

Despite this tragic loss of life, the fatality rate on Everest has been dropping in recent years, both for foreign climbers and hired high-altitude workers. According to the Himalayan Database – a useful resource for research on Everest – there were 61 deaths between 1950 and 1999 among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 1.52%. Between 2000 and 2014 there were 31 fatalities among high-altitude workers, a death rate of 0.57% – based on the number of journeys through the icefall.

7. Who holds the most Everest summit record?

Nepalese Sherpas hold the record for the most ascents. Kami Rita Sherpa X 25 summits and on second Ngima Nuru Sherpa X 22 summits.

8. How many climbing routes are there to climb Everest?

There are seventeen different routes to climb Everest. The two most famous and standard routes are South Col from Nepal and North ridge from Tibet.

More detailed climbing routes on Alan Arnett blog: https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/12/28/comparing-the-routes-of-everest-2018-edition/

Image from Alan Arnett Blog site

9. What experience do climbers need to climb Mt. Everest? Are guides necessary to climb Mt. Everest?

If you are a total beginner then you will definitely want to check out our Road to Everest program.

Experiences - Previous high altitude climb of at least 1 X 7000M and 1 X 8000M+ of any alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Mt. Everest. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal but can be anywhere else in the world, although climbing in Nepal does help you get the wider understanding of climbing in Nepal. I.e.- local way of doing things, cultural perspective, bonding with local climbing leaders, their perspective on climbing big mountains etc. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience of hiking/climbing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Be comfortable and proficient using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. Climbers should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, basic rope techniques like tying safety knots and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.

For intermediate experience level climbers with no previous 7000M and 8000M climbing experience we highly suggest you build and gain the right experience before committing to climb Everest. Patience and right skill and experience is key and mostly the difference between death and survival in Everest.

Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Mt. Everest expedition process will have to go through a registered local company. However, if you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you climbers want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.

10. How many high camps are there on Mount Everest?

Strategically with Everest expedition we will have 4 high altitude camps.

• Camp 1 (6,065M/19,900ft)

• Camp 2 (6400M/20,997ft)

• Camp 3 (7200M - 7500M/23,622+ft)

• South Col or Camp 4 (7906M/25,938ft)

11. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for climbing Mt. Everest expedition?

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Lobuche East 6119M

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Khumbu Ice Fall

Going slow and steady is the game when climbing extreme high altitude peaks. On extreme high altitude climbing expeditions it is imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.

On our Everest Expedition, our team will climb Lobuche East 6119M for their acclimatization/training peak and we will strategically conduct several rotations between Camp 1 - 3 to acclimatise properly.

During the main expedition, our base camp will be fully stationed and extra facilities will be available. We will conduct training day and several rotation to acclimatise during our expedition. More details are on our Everest climbing strategy.

Note - If you want to shorten your Everest (Express) itinerary to 45 days Namas team can make those arrangements.

12. What training is required/experience for Mt. Everest expedition climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?

Everest is the ultimate climb for many and by no means is an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 1X 7000M and 1X 8000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. To keep it short you will have to be at your absolute best physical fitness shape. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the ice fall or even the high altitudes.

We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (20km+) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Another aspect you will want to focus is on strength building and muscle endurance training. Kettlebell routines are one of the best workout we can recommend. We advise you to schedule your training at least 6 - 12 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

13. How hard is Mt. Everest climbing expedition?

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Everest expedition is graded at E / 5 in difficulty. (Alpine/Fitness grading link).

We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 45 days of alpine climbing days and the climb will demand every ounce of your will, fitness, and awareness.

When we depart from Everest base camp our first objective challenge of navigating the great Khumbu icefall begins, mostly climbing on steep ice, jumaring, climbing on ladders just between the crevasse and ascending up the huge icefall to camp 1. As we go into higher elevation breathing will be challenging but with proper rotation acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.

Summit day climb starts early with the goal to reach the summit or near to the summit before sunrise. This will be another challenging day mixed with a day of accomplishment. You can expect to climb around 16+ hours as you will have to summit and then descend back to camp 3 or camp 2 and then descend towards base camp the next day. Our teams will already have set up Everest base camp and the remaining 4 camps before client members reach there on their rotation and climbing days. Training walking on ladders, ice climbing and rotations are all meant to prepare you and acclimatize you for your summit. All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body and mind to face these challenges. 

What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Mt. Everest expedition climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Mt. Everest expedition climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-40c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)

Boots for Everest Expedition

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

More 8000M boots link here (other media article)

14. What types of foods are available during Mt. Everest Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition

On your hike to the base camp, most of the foods are prepared in the tea houses. Once we reach base camp we will have our own base camp station. Our Everest base camp kitchen will be the best, where our amazing chef will prepare foods that will surprise you with what you can find at that altitude. Throughout your climbing period foods are prepared by our base camp kitchen staff members.

In the high altitudes, as the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked and served to them. We suggest all our clients to drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.

15. What trip insurance will I need for Mt. Everest Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

We highly recommend Global Rescue as your insurance provider. Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Everest region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon. 

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance reference number, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts, certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim. There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal during 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

16. Next climbing goals after Mt. Everest Expedition climbing

Everest expedition being one of the most sought out expedition is also one of the expedition with the most organised facilitated expedition. After completing your Everest expedition successfully there are are other mind boggling and challenging/adventure filled expedition which we can recommend.

1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition

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Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest as Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.

2. Mera, Baruntse and Makalu (Triple Combo) or Baruntse with Mera Peak

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Makalu 8463M

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Baruntse 7129M

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Mera Peak 6476M

Makalu Triple combo climbing expedition is one of the exciting mountain climbing expedition we organise at Namas Adventure. Climb the 5th highest peak in the world which is technically challenging but with a mix of climbing Mera Peak 6476M as your acclimatisation peak and Baruntse 7129M as your training peak. Mera Peak will be the most comfortable climbing peak helping you acclimatise and then we proceed onto the next 7000M peak objective of climbing Baruntse. The idea is to summit a 6000M+ peaks then to 7000M+ peak and then finally a 8000M peak.

Baruntse peak 7129M is one of the most remote peak sitting between Makalu and Everest/Lhotse. We will use this expedition to acclimatise further and also to train/refresh our climbing skills at higher altitude. Climbing Baruntse peak should further prepare us for taking on our final objective of climbing Makalu. After summiting Baruntse we then proceed towards Makalu base camp descending down via Sherpani col route.

Makalu 8463M will be the ultimate goal for this expedition. A mix of technical climb and extreme altitude this climb does not come easy. This expedition challenge is perfect after Everest expedition. You will need a serious endurance and strength in your fitness tank. Make this part of your climbing how ever it suits you. Some climbers want to climb all 14 X 8000M peaks or just another 8000M peak climbing achievement. What ever your goal Makalu is one of the best expedition to take on before or after Everest expedition.

We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your ultiamate dream of climbing Mt. Everest. If you are looking for a great climbing team and want to have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Mt. Everest Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on Everest summit successfully. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well. Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Other related articles:

• Training and fitness for Mountain climbing

• Nutrition for Mountaineering

• Mountaineering Equipment/Gears checklist

• Altitude Sickness

Manaslu expedition (Experiences, fitness and skills) - Namas Adventure

Manaslu 8163M Expedition

Experiences, fitness and skills

Manaslu 8163M Expedition

What experiences do I need to have to climb Manaslu?

Climbing any 8000M peak is no joke and climbing at those heights should definitely give you chills and excitement. At this level, there is no such thing as an easy climb. Manaslu is no different. Although this is considered one of the most accessible 8000M+ peaks, climbing via a standard route does not come easy and previous high-altitude climbing experiences are a must. This peak does come with a substantial set of challenges and objective dangers such as bergschrund, steep vertical climb, avalanche-prone, etc. Like any other big mountaineering project you must be very-very comfortable scrambling, traversing, and climbing on steep rocky (or icy, during spring) sections, jumaring on fixed-line ropes, climbing with gears, descending on fixed-line, and bearing crisp cold climbing conditions.

Preferred Previous mountaineering experiences

At least 1 X 7000M+ peak expedition and several 4000M - 6000M+ expeditions with semi-technical to technical climbs around the world. Consider yourself ready and prepared to step into 8000M peaks with Manaslu as your starting 8000M+ peak. Manaslu Expedition is considered an essential experience before embarking higher on to Everest or K2 expeditions. Manaslu expedition attracts a lot of high-altitude climbing lovers. The general term is any semi-technical to technical peaks that are higher and have longer ascending, scrambling, traversing, and descending sections. These experiences do qualify you to take on Manaslu.

Crossing crevasse using ladder during Manaslu Expedition

Fitness Level - 5

We have graded fitness level 5 for the Mt. Manalsu expedition. Exceptional level of all-round fitness coupled with the ability to cope and resist at the highest altitude. An exceptional level of endurance and strength fitness level is required with a high degree of mental toughness. A resistance to extreme weather conditions over extended periods of time. Heavy loads over multiple days may need to be carried. Previous experience is highly crucial in order to prepare your body to endure a high level of mental and physical toughness from both altitude and terrain.

The difficult issue is how you train for such exceptional conditions. Hard work will be required to get to that fitness level. For a General fitness indication, climbers should be able to run half marathon to marathon or be able to cycle for 4 -5 hours. If you prefer hiking, you should be able to carry a load of 25 - 30 kilograms and hike for 3 to 4 hours. Being able to complete a triathlon is a great indication that you are physically at your optimum best.

Good strength and muscle endurance training routine can be implemented with a variety of approaches such as taking part in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training.

Skills to be learned

Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it real simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know. These fundamental skills listed below should be of second nature to you when climbing.

1. Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.

2. Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.

3. Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.

4. Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.

5. Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4. (See our - Alpine grading for reference)

Thrill of climbing Manaslu

Climbers joining Manaslu 8163M expedition must have previous high altitude experiences and solid knowledge of various climbing skills. We recommend climbers have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.

With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Manaslu now more than ever is now an achievable objective with a higher success rate for climbers who don’t consider themselves pros. Thanks to the effective guidance of Sherpa leaders of Nepal. Some of our IFMGA Nepalese guides consider this peak one of their favorite climb. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up and you’ve got the necessary skills and experience, you will also need to commit to your physical training like any other expeditions.

Challenge yourself.

Go. Live Your Story

Are you planning to climb 🏔Manaslu 8163M in Nepal? If your dream is to climb this extremely beautiful and challenging peak in Nepal and progress to higher 7000M to 8000M+ mountains then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure expeditions. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.

Manaslu 8163M Expedition strategy. Base Camp to Summit - Namas Adventure

Manaslu Expedition, Nepal

Manaslu 8163M Expedition strategy.

Base Camp to Summit

Manaslu 8163M expedition is one of the most thrilling and accessible mountain to climb at 8000M+ level. Manaslu and Cho Oyu are the two most climbed 8000M mountains. A perfect mountain to climb before embarking on the ultimate dream of summiting Everest.

Base Camp 4800M to Camp 1 (5600M - 5700M)

Image by Jackson Groves / Journey Era

Our expedition begins with 🚁 helicopter flight from Kathmandu to Sama Gaun 3690M on the third day of the expedition. After acclimatising for a day in the village we begin our hike to Manaslu base camp 4800M where our camps will already have been set up by our expedition management, Sherpa & porter teams. Preparations will have already be done months before and base camp teams will be ready to welcome clients where they will enjoy, eat, rest, relax have fun. This will be the home for next 25-28 days. We will ascend by the North-East Face, utilizing 4 camps along the way. Next, after few days of acclimatisation, puja ceremony and training day our group will head to camp 1. Climbers will hike through rugged uphill path, that takes them through moraine and crevassed glacier and finally to camp 1. The views from base camp is breathtaking with Himalayas dominating the views all around.

Camp 1 (5600M - 5700M) - Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M)

The climbing route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a strenuous and hard climb where the team ascends moderate-angled snow slopes on the lower reaches, with a short steep slope above Camp 1. Climbing through steep slopes requires your full focus and it is expected to take anywhere from 5 - 7 hours or more until you arrive at camp 2 at 6300M -6400M. Camp 2 treats with you with another breathtaking surrounding Himalayan peaks. From here you could feel the surrounding mountains are really close to you.

Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M) - Camp 3 (6900M)

The route from camp 2 to camp 3 is mountain straight forward, requiring steady progress on a vast some snowy slopes, and one short but steep section just before arriving at camp 3. This day, we will be climbing for 4 - 5 hours.

Camp 3 (6900M) - Camp 4 (7300M)

Camp 3 to camp 4 is another steep vertical slope climbing day. Relying on the fixed ropes and your crampons to get you up to 7300M. Expect to climb for around 6 - 7 hours on this part of the climb. We will be doing a frequent rotation of higher camps to lower camps to get well acclimatized before making the final push to the summit.

Manaslu 8163M True Summit (4). Images by - Jackson Groves

Camp 4 (7300M) - Summit 8163M to Camp 2 (6300M - 6400M)

The move from camp 4 to the summit is not as technical between the camps, but longer and requires more steady progress over the flowing snowy/icy slope. The views all around on this section are as incredible as climbers will be heading towards the 8000M altitude. After around 6 - 8 hours of climb, climbers will arrive at the ‘false summit’ where a lot of the operators end their summit bid but Namas Expedition Sherpa team will always aim to fix the rope to the “true summit” which is the highest point for Manaslu 8163M. This requires meticulous planning and decision making due to the unstable nature of the ice/snow surface at the summit.

Descending the mountain is quick and straight forward but equal care is required as clients will be super tired after the summit. Making it to the summit is halfway, so our objective will be to reach camp 2 safely by afternoon or early evening hours. The very next day, we then descend from camp 2 to basecamp, which should take 3 - 4 hours. Our base camp team will be ready to welcome us there with summit achievement cheers and joy. After resting for a bit we can enjoy our much deserved warm meal prepared by our chef. The way back home involves the same trek back down into Sama Gaun, followed by a night at the village before catching the helicopter back to Kathmandu. After arriving in Kathmandu climbers will have another two nights for well-deserved celebrations, showers and rest before departing back to their home.

As climbers joining Manaslu expedition will already (must) have previous experiences, we recommend climbers to have extra essential skills in their climbing arsenal. If you cant find mountains to climb near your place, rock climbing indoors and outdoors is one of the best ways to keep refreshing your rope skills and staying in climbing shape.

With all commercial expeditions, the majority of your expedition is handled and taken care of by your expedition company. Having competent members from operational management to guiding leaders on the field is key for any successful expedition. Once you are signed up, you’ve got the necessary skills and experience all you need to be is physically and mentally prepared that is your commitment to fitness training.

Challenge yourself.

Go. Live Your Story

Are you planning to climb a remote, rugged, and challenging 8000M+ peak with substantially less objective danger? Whether your goal is simply to climb an extremely high altitude peak, explore and climb remote peaks in Nepal, or progress to higher 8000M+ peaks then our team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is set for your next adventure. Email - bookings@namasadventure.com or Call/Whatsapp us at +447446976060 and our team will be there to answer your inquiry and instruct you with any questions regarding the expedition.

Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition - Namas Adventure

Everything you need to know about Manaslu 8163M Expedition

Manaslu BC 4800M

Manaslu Expedition is considered a must climb for anyone seeking to climb Everest or other challenging 8000M+ peaks in the world. Crowning itself the eighth highest peak in the world, this mountaineering expedition is suitable for anyone with 6000M - 7000M+ climbing experience. This is a perfect expedition to experience not only the challenges of climbing an extreme altitude peak but also experience the death zone altitude climb. The climbing route is technical and strenuous with fixed rope line support available to reach the summit. We expect all climbers to be extremely fit for any 7000M - 8000M+ expedition.

During climbing days, Sherpa guides leaders from several groups work together to set up the ropes. The climbing route is mostly on ice and snowy surfaces with an exposed section past 6600M+ all the way to the summit. Be ready for long duration of climbing on steep vertical section, crossing through crevasse and jumar/climbing/walking on steep sections for long hours. This is definitely a must climb for any climbers seeking high altitude climbing adventure if you particularly dream to climb Mt.Everest.
*History: Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition.

We have listed 10 useful pieces of information that will help you prepare for your Manaslu 8163M climbing expedition.

1. When is the best time to climb Manaslu?

Manaslu is best suited to climb at the end of Monsoon season in Nepal. (3rd week of August to October)

Note - Manaslu is one of the most popular climbs at 8000M+ level in Nepal after Everest. You can expect several teams to attempt the climb in any given year.

2. How much does the Manaslu expedition cost? What does it include?

With Namas Adventure team, the Manaslu expedition costs $18250 P/P (Heli charter Ktm - Samagaon - Ktm) and $17500 P/P (trek to Samagaon and back via helicopter to Ktm from Samagoan). We provide premium high-quality all-inclusive peak climbing services. Our team’s focus is your safety, successful summit, experiencing the local culture having fun. As a company, we are focused on our core values of being a responsible, ethical, and sustainable mountain adventure brand. Climbers do not have to worry about anything with our team and totally focus on their expedition and fun times ahead.

List of what’s included in your booking.

1. IMFGA/NMA certified Guide leader

2. $1000 Individual tip pool. Tip pool will be fairly distributed among all Namas staff members. (Guides, porters, drivers, hotel security, and staff). Guest may personally hand in extra tips to our guides and porters)

3. Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

4. 🚁 Helicopter charter to Nearest village (Sama Gaon) from Base camp and 🚁 helicopter charter back to Kathmandu after you summit and return to base camp. (clients who choose this option)

5. 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. ( Additional Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)

6. Head chef and kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members )

7. 2 X Oxygen cylinder (Additional Cylinder $500 per O2 cylinder)

8. 2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)

9. All trekking and climbing permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)

10. All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

11. Expedition tents (2 or 1-person tents ) Brands Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment, Kailas

12. 60 kgs personal weight

13. Meals at higher camps

14. Chocolate, energy bars, hydration pills, biscuits, canned foods, nuts

15. Burners and expedition equipment

16. Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone/GPS tracking system

17. Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

18. Lodge accommodation during the trek

19. Porters per guest

20. Arrival pick-up and departure

21. Internal flights

22. Basic First aid kit

23. Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner

3. What experience do climbers need to climb Manaslu? Are guides necessary to climb Manaslu?

Experiences - Previous high altitude (6000M - 7000M+) alpine/mountaineering climbing experiences are absolutely necessary in order to climb Manaslu. If you have climbed peaks above 6000M+ such as Chulu West 6419M, Lobuche East & Island Peak and 7000er peaks such as Baruntse Peak 7129M, Himlung Himal 7126M,and Mt. Nun 7135M sets you up perfectly for the Manaslu expedition. It necessarily doesn’t have to be in Nepal and can be anywhere else in the world. Climbers need to have good knowledge and experience in hiking/climbing/traversing using crampons on snow, ice, and steep surfaces. Must be comfortable and proficient in using a fixed rope to climb on steep and exposed sections. You should be familiar with the use of climbing gears, and basic rope techniques like tying safety knots, and abseiling when coming down from the mountains and have the mental toughness to climb in cold and windy conditions.

On most major expeditions in Nepal for the majority of the time, climbers will have to rely on their jumaring skill and strength (ascending) and rappeling/abseiling skills to safely descend down the mountains. Your strength and endurance to continue for a long duration are very key for any climbers to complete this expedition.

Local Guides - By Nepalese law, when issuing permits for high altitude peaks above 6000M+ guides are a must. To issue a permit for Manaslu Expedition, you will have to go through a registered local company. For intermediate-level or even professional experience-level climbers, we highly suggest climbing the peak with guides. The standard climbing route does have several objective dangers/challenges and there are chances of avalanche, there for local knowledge and guidance is super key on any major expeditions.

If you are one of the experienced climbers with tons of climbing routes under your belt then there can be several routes that even local guides may not be able to climb. So even if you want to explore new routes then taking a guide as a backup option would be a wise choice.

4. What is the best-acclimated itinerary for the climbing Manaslu expedition?

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On high-altitude climbing trips it’s imperative that climbers acclimatize properly so that the body is well-rested, adapted, and stronger to climb even higher. When we want to commit to climbing adventure at high altitude, slow and steady is the right way. Our itineraries have been refined and designed by our guides with years of climbing and guiding experiences.

On the Manaslu expedition, we have strategized our itinerary with 4 high camps and several rotations between camps 1, 2, and 3 so that climbers are well acclimatized, recovered, and stronger to complete the expedition successfully.

More details are on our Manaslu climbing strategy.

5. What training is required/experience for Manaslu climb? Can you suggest to me a training plan?

Manaslu climbing is by no means an easy climb and we require interested climbers to have a previous high altitude of at least 6000M - 7000M+ climbing anywhere in the world. Mountains are graded based on their technical and physical difficulties. For your training, it is very hard to mimic walking on ladders like the ones you will come across when crossing the crevasse in the mountains. We highly recommend focusing on endurance, core, and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running (10-20km) 3 to 4 times a week, cycling (1 hour - 2 hours), hiking gaining elevation with 15-20kgs weights on are some of the suggested training. Kettle bell strength + endurance training twice or three times a week are also recommended to build muscular endurance. We advise you to schedule your training at least 5-6 months before your climbing departure. More on our training mountain expedition blog.

6. How hard is Manaslu climbing expedition?

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Manaslu expedition is graded at 4E in difficulty. (Alpine grading link).

We cannot stress enough but it’s very important climbers are mountain fit and strong before starting the expedition. In total, we will have 35 days of alpine climbing days with contingency days in case of bad weather. The climb will demand every ounce of your fitness and awareness. Breathing will be challenging but with proper acclimatization done ahead of time and by staying well hydrated and consuming enough nutrition, you should be able to cope with the altitude.

When we depart from the base camp the real alpine challenge begins, mostly climbing on steep ice and snow surfaces. Once staged up and set up at base camp the climbers prepare here for the next 35 days of climbing and summiting Manaslu. Once setting off from camps to camps Manaslu has some of the longest and uphill steep climbs. Climbing route is in a very exposed area and there are significant dangers of crevasses opening and avalanches. Ladders are set up by guide members from several expedition team and it is best to always follow the instructions of your guide when climbing.

All your previous training of endurance and strength training should have prepared your body to face those challenges. 

7. What are the clothing and gears - boots required for Manaslu climb (trekking and mountaineering)? Can I rent gears for Manaslu expedition climb?

Choosing the right gear is very important. We advise climbers not to make compromises on the quality of gears and clothing, and to pay attention to layer up comfortably as well. You will depend highly on your clothes to keep you warm enough for the dropping temperatures at nighttime which can go down to -20c /-30c. Please check our equipment blog for recommended clothing and gear.

Renting your gears in Nepal? The simple answer is NO. This is one of the most frequently asked questions mainly by beginner climbers. We have tested and tried several gears in Nepal and frankly, we do not recommend hiring here. We know it might seem like a huge amount of expenses to buy all the gears, but they are well worth it. You can even hire from the city you live in. Make sure they are the original products from well-known adventure gear companies. (North face, Mountain hardware, Kailas, etc.)

Mountaineering Boots for Manaslu Expedition

With better technologies, climbing shoes have improved every year. We highly recommend double-layered boots like Kailas Everest 8000M, La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube, Scarpa 8000 phantom, Millet Everest summit GTX. It is wise to spend on good mountaineering boots, as so with all the gears that we have mentioned in this post above.

More 8000M boots link here (other media article)

8. What types of foods are available during Manaslu Expedition? Is clean water available and how much water intake is recommended? Hydration and nutrition

We suggest all our clients drink 4-6 l of water every day. Staying hydrated will also help you with acclimatizing properly. It’s best to take hydration tablets or filtration bottles with you.

Most of the foods are prepared in the Base camp and during your climbing days foods are carried up by our Sherpa teams. You do not need to worry about food as our chef will prepare energy-dense delicacies in our base camp kitchen and all you have to do is enjoy your meal, recover and get stronger. In the high altitudes, although the weather is extremely cold, your body will naturally want to reject food or avoid using energy on anything, which includes eating too. You might have to force yourself with the first few couple of bites and then eventually your body will start accepting the food. We also provide packed dried meals, so that clients have other options should they not want to eat what’s being cooked in the tents.

Remember to avoid smoking and any alcohol intake. You might see our guiding leaders smoking or drinking but remember they are professionals and they have adapted very well to these environments compared to the climbers who go there just for adventure holidays.

9. What trip insurance will I need for Manaslu Expedition? Do I need helicopter evacuation to be included in my insurance cover?

No matter how prepared you are, you never know when or how things might go wrong. You might be sick suddenly or not that we wish but there might be some incident, you might suffer from altitude sickness or anything we can’t imagine yet. So, for these reasons, it is always good to have insurance cover. Our recommended Insurance companies (link)

Helicopter evacuation is our final emergency option and we do recommend you have one in your insurance, as it is the only means of transport in the Manaslu region. Our guides will assess your condition and examine if it is a major issue. If not, they will use their experience to motivate and push you through your trip. However, in case of emergency, helicopter evacuation will be called upon. 

There is a procedure to follow when calling for emergency evacuation. We will call the insurance company hotline, get approval with your insurance, and only then helicopters are sent to the distress call location. You will have to pay for the evacuation in Nepal from your own pocket but once you are back home you can claim your money back. Make sure you collect helicopter evacuation receipts and a certified doctor’s approval letter. The insurance company will ask for this evidence to back up your claim.

There was a huge helicopter scam in Nepal in 2018, so insurance companies are taking extra measures to stop this from happening. Our guides and staff members in Kathmandu will also remind you of this process during briefings.

10. Next climbing goals after Manaslu Expedition climbing

If you want to extend your trip and combine other 6000 M peaks along with Mera peak, then we would like to recommend the following two other itineraries.

1. Ama Dablam 6819M and Island Peak 6189M climbing expedition - Click here

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Technically difficult and climbing goal for many mountaineers. Ama Dablam is well renowned as one of the most beautiful and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is one of the most sought mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiasts. Whether you plan to do it before or after your bigger expedition like Everest, Ama Dablam climb in itself is a mountaineering challenge on its own. Ama Dablam is considered "a must-do" for alpinist and mountaineers.

2. Mt. Everest 8848M Expedition, Nepal

Climbing Khumbu Ice Fall, Everest Expedition

3. Makalu 8463M, Nepal

Manaslu Expedition is one of the exciting 8000M mountain climbing expedition in Nepal. We hope the information we have provided above will help you decide/prepare in the best way before you embark on your Manaslu climbing journey. If you are looking for a great climbing trip and have an amazing time in Nepal then we would love to have you onboard for our Manaslu Expedition. You can be assured that you are provided quality services with our fun-loving yet professional guides who have 5 - 10+ years of taking clients on such peak climbing trips. After all we do aim to be the best adventure specialist in the world and you having a great time, being safe and summiting will always be our priority.

If you do have any more questions, please ask us below in the comment section or you can email us at bookings@namasadventure.com and our team will get back to you as soon as they can. Stay well.

Challenge yourself. Dare great things and live your story.

Other related articles:

• Training and fitness for Mountain climbing

• Nutrition for Mountaineering

• Mountaineering Equipment/Gears checklist

• Altitude Sickness
  
  

Experiences, fitness level and skills required to climb Ama Dablam expedition - Namas Adventure

Ama Dablam Summit push

Ama Dablam Expedition

Experiences, Fitness, and skills

What type of background and experience should one have before attempting Ama Dablam? What kind of climbing experience is considered sufficient for climbing Ama Dablam?

In order to successfully ascend Ama Dablam, it is essential for individuals to possess a strong foundation in high-altitude mountaineering and alpine-style climbing techniques. This includes proficiency in scrambling, traversing, and navigating steep rocky or icy terrain, as well as the ability to safely utilize fixed-line ropes and climbing gear. Additionally, it is important to be acclimatized to and comfortable with cold conditions. It is strongly recommended that individuals have prior experience climbing peaks of 6000 meters or higher in order to adequately prepare for this expedition. It should also be noted that Ama Dablam presents its own unique set of challenges and potential hazards, thus, it is imperative that individuals are thoroughly prepared and confident in their abilities to handle the aforementioned skills and conditions.

What are the prerequisites for climbing Ama Dablam?

Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Aconcagua, Mt, Blanc (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c.

Individuals contemplating an ascent of Ama Dablam should possess a strong background in high-altitude climbing, specifically by having successfully climbed several peaks ranging from 4000 to 6000 meters that require semi-technical to technical climbing techniques. For those seeking additional challenges, many climbers choose to tackle Ama Dablam following their successful expeditions on peaks such as Mount Everest or K2. Ama Dablam is a popular destination among those who thrive on the demands of alpine climbing. Some notable examples of such peaks include Alpamayo, Mount Kenya, Denali, Mount Everest, Baruntse, and Manaslu. These peaks generally require significant technical expertise, particularly in the areas of ascending, scrambling, traversing, and descending. Having experience climbing such peaks would qualify one to undertake the challenging ascent of Ama Dablam.

Fitness level - 5

For our Ama Dablam mountain expedition, we have established a fitness level of 5. This signifies an exceptional level of overall fitness, including the ability to cope with and acclimatize to high-altitude environments. It also requires a high degree of endurance, strength, and mental toughness, as well as the ability to withstand extreme weather conditions for extended periods of time. Participants should also be prepared for the physical demands of carrying 8-12kgs of loads over multiple days. Given the challenging nature of this expedition, previous experience in high-altitude climbing is highly recommended in order to prepare both mentally and physically for the demands of altitude and terrain.

Preparing for the exceptional conditions of an expedition such as Ama Dablam requires a significant level of dedication and effort. To achieve the required fitness level, individuals should strive to achieve high levels of endurance and strength.

To provide a general indication of the level of fitness required, it is recommended that individuals be able to run a half marathon to a marathon distance, or cycle for 5-6 hours. For those who prefer hiking, being able to carry a load of 25 to 30 kilograms and hike for 6 hours+ is a good benchmark. Additionally, being able to complete a triathlon is a strong indicator that an individual is at their physical peak.

Additionally, a good strength and muscle endurance training routine can be implemented through a variety of approaches, such as participating in cross-fit sessions and kettlebell training. It is important to note that this training should be done under the guidance of a professional trainer or coach to ensure that it is tailored to an individual's specific needs and goals.

Skills to be learned.

Guides in Nepal will advise you to keep it really simple. So there are four basic things you must - must know.

1. Figure 8 knot and how to tie a stopper knot at the end of the rope.

2. Ascending/jumaring on fixed-line and abseiling with super 8 belay device or ATC descender in multi-pitch sections. You will have to be very very careful and well-rehearsed on abseiling since there is no room for errors when descending. You only get that one chance when coming down so you will have to be super careful. And for safety backup have ‘prusik knot’ tied on the main rope.

3. Climbing, scrambling, and traversing with crampons on for long-duration on ice, rock, and snow surface.

4. Multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c. Indoors or outdoors. (For reference check out our - Alpine grading)

5. Performing snow arrest and safely getting back up if by any chance climbers slip and slide.

6. Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4 (required for Spring Ama Dablam expedition)

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Spring Expedition sees more ice and snow climb

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Climbing to camp 3

Participating in an Ama Dablam expedition requires a solid foundation of previous high-altitude climbing experience and a strong understanding of various climbing techniques. Additionally, having additional essential skills such as rope techniques, rock climbing, and ice climbing can greatly enhance your chances of success. If you are unable to find mountains to climb in your area, a deeper level of indoor and outdoor rock climbing can help you maintain your skills and fitness levels.

While most commercial expeditions take care of the logistics, it is still important to be prepared and to have a good understanding of the technical aspects of the climb. Thanks to the expertise and competence of the Sherpa guide leaders in Nepal, summit attempts on Ama Dablam are now more accessible than ever. Some of our Nepalese guides even consider this peak to be their favorite climb, and it can serve as a great training ground for higher and more challenging peaks.

It is important to note that the success of an expedition depends on the competence of all team members, from operational management to field guides. Once you have signed up and have the necessary skills and experience, it is critical to commit to a physical training regimen in order to be fully prepared for the demands of the expedition.

Challenge yourself. Go. Live Your Story

Climbers above camp 3 making summit push during Ama Dablam expedition.

Are you considering an ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal? If you are eager to tackle this stunning and challenging peak and progress to even higher mountains, the team at Namas Adventure/Expedition is here to help make your dream a reality. We would be happy to assist you with any questions you may have regarding the expedition. To contact us, please email us at bookings@namasadventure.com or give us a call/WhatsApp at +447446976060 and one of our team members will be happy to assist you.