2025 Annapurna IV Expedition: Success, Records, and Oxygen-Free Summit
2025 marked our third year operating on Annapurna IV, building on the momentum of our 2023 success. This year, we chose the clear, stable windows of October which is unarguably the finest month for climbing in the Nepal Himalaya.
Strategy and Logistics
Our team of four arrived in Kathmandu on October 4th and moved toward the Manang Valley on the 6th. Reports indicated five other teams were on the mountain, totaling about 30 foreign climbers. Knowing Annapurna IV has gained popularity since our 2023 "True Summit," we made a strategic decision to "join forces" with the 7 Summit team to fix ropes. This collaboration ensured a safer, more efficient route for everyone on the mountain.
At Base Camp, we focused on "The Namas Way", which is focused on exceptional comfort and nutrition. We believe that to climb high, you must rest comfortably in the lower camp. Our camp is designed to be a true home where you can refuel and recover properly between rotations to climb the high sleep low approach of the mountains.
The Timeline
Oct 4: Arrival in Kathmandu
Oct 8: Reach Annapurna IV Base Camp
Oct 11-12: Rotations to Camp 1 and Camp 2 (6,100m)
Oct 13-16: Rest and recovery at Base Camp
Oct 17-19: Summit Push (C1, C2, and arrival at C3)
Oct 20:Summit Day. The team reached the 7,525m peak between 7:30 AM and 8:35 AM.
Oct 21-23: Return to Base Camp, celebration, and trek to Humde for departure.
A Year of Records
While other teams struggled, Namas Adventure maintained a 100% summit and safety record. While a neighboring team attempted their push a day ahead of us, only one of their members reached the top.
We are also incredibly proud to celebrate three historic milestones from our group:
Oxygen-Free Success: One member (UK) completed his first 7,000m peak without supplemental oxygen.
First American Female: The first American woman to stand on the summit of Annapurna IV.
First Chinese Female: The first Chinese woman to successfully summit this peak.
Timing is Everything
In the mountains, intuition is as important as strength. Our weather reports predicted heavy snow starting around October 25th. We packed our camp on the 21st and descended on the 22nd.
Later, we learned that teams who stayed behind were hit by the storm; their camps were buried and they required heli-rescues. We are relieved to report there were no casualties, but it reinforced the importance of our "summit and depart" strategy.
One interesting update for future climbers: the massive crevasse we encountered above Camp 2 in 2023 and 2024 has completely filled in. The surface is now climbable, and ladders are no longer required.
Looking Ahead: The Frontier Series
We are already booking for the Autumn 2026 season on Annapurna IV. But our mission goes beyond the famous peaks. Through our Frontier Series, we lead expeditions to "least-climbed" mountains like Tilicho Peak (7,134m).
Climbing these remote peaks does more than provide a pristine and authentic experience for the climbers, it sustains the local rural economy. It brings employment to porters and business to village teahouses that rarely see foot traffic. We want to turn these "lesser-known" peaks into "must-climb" destinations for the benefit of the local communities.
Are you ready to be part of the story? Whether you want to tackle Annapurna IV in 2026-27 or explore a virgin/lesser climbed peak in our Frontier Series, join our world-class team
Namas Adventure Team
