FRONTIER SERIES: API HIMAL 7132M expedition

Remote, rarely climbed, and built for mountaineers who want more than a crowded standard route

HIGHLIGHTS

  • Rarity: least-climbed or under-explored objectives (one–two departures/year max)

  • Only 23 successful

  • Alpine / Fitness grading: TD+ / 4

  • 1:1 Climbing support

  • 16 Weeks of training programs for 7000M from Training Peaks

  • Small and dedicated team strategy. 4-10 max client members

  • Camp 1 & 2 strategy. Heated Dining tent, solo tent at base camp

Embark on the Extraordinary: Discover Our Frontier Expeditions

Welcome to the Frontier Expeditions series by NAMAS Adventure—where we invite you to explore the world's most uncharted and rarely climbed peaks. Each of these expeditions is a rare opportunity, offered just once or twice a year. We run each unique adventure for a limited time—perhaps a year or two—before moving on to uncover new frontiers. This ensures that every journey remains exclusive, filled with the spirit of true exploration, and reserved for those who seek the extraordinary.

API HIMAL 7132M - year 2027/28

Api Himal, standing 7,132 meters tall in Nepal’s far-western Darchula District, is one of the least climbed peaks in the country. It lies in the Gurans Himal range, close to the borders of India and Tibet, and is known for its wild beauty and peaceful surroundings. The mountain was first climbed on May 10, 1960, by a Japanese team led by K. Hirabayashi with Gyaltsen Norbu Sherpa. Since then, only 23 successful climbs have been recorded, and notably, no female climber has ever summited Api Himal, making it one of Nepal’s most untouched and unexplored 7,000-meter peaks.

Recently, the government has listed Api Himal as a “permit-free” peak to encourage climbers to visit lesser-known regions. Its long approach through remote valleys, lack of infrastructure, and tranquil environment make it an ideal destination for those seeking true adventure. With its steep slopes, impressive height, and isolation, Api Himal offers a rare and rewarding experience for experienced mountaineers eager to explore the hidden side of the Himalayas.

Pre-requisite requirements (two or more): Annapurna 5X Summit, Alpamayo, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, (Similar semi-technical 6000M peaks or higher), Ama Dablam or higher and multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5.9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c

Why Api Himal?

Api Himal takes you back to an era of 70s or 80s when Himalayan climbing was raw, uncertain, and earned. Remote, rarely attempted, and untouched by mass expeditions, it demands commitment over comfort. This is not a mountain of convenience—but of consequence, patience, and true exploration.

Routes are not polished, information is limited, and decisions are made in real time. Progress here depends on judgment, resilience, and respect for the mountain. For those who seek the spirit of the early pioneers, Api Himal remains one of the last true frontiers.

  • Autumn 2027

    • 1st - 28th November

  • USD 16,750 P/P

    Deposit required: USD 1,500 P/P

    Please inquire about prices in your local currency. We accept payment in £GBP/ €EUROS/ $AUD

    • IFMGA or NMA certified Guide leader

    • Namas Branded merchandise (Down Jacket, Cap, Buff)

    • 1:1 Sherpa/client ratio. (Additional Sherpa Guide can be arranged, extra charges apply)

    • 16 Weeks of training programs for 7000M fromTraining Peaks

    • Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the number of climbing team members )

    • Supplemental Oxygen cylinder for emergency use only (Personal O2 system can be arranged at $550 P/P with 1 bottle and 1 regulator system)

    • 2 nights before the expedition and 1 day after the expedition. Single-room hotel in Kathmandu. (Should clients return early from their expedition, clients will be responsible for their extra Kathmandu hotel bookings)

    • All trekking and climbing permits

    • All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trailhead

    • Solo tent at BC, and 2 person tent at higher camps

    • 40 kgs personal weight (Extra additional weight, clients will need to hire an additional porter. Estimated $1000 USD for 27-28 days)

    • Meals during camping days (Chicken, mushroom, vegan options, etc)

    • Burners and expedition equipment

    • Walkie-talkie/ Satellite phone

    • Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner on trek and expedition days.

    • Lodge accommodation during the trek

    • Arrival pick-up and departure

    • Internal flights

    • Basic First aid kit

    • Welcome or Farewell leave Dinner

    • Visas and travel insurance

    • Summit Bonus ($1000 per member)

    • Entertainment and food (Kathmandu & Pokhara)

    • Bottled drinks and beverages

    • Evacuation (will be done in your account)

    • Single supplement Charges

    • Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions

    • Optional trips

    • Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks, and any meals besides breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

    • Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon

    • International flights to Kathmandu

  • 23 Summits

  • Api (also known as Api Himal) was first climbed on 10 May 1960 by a Japanese expedition with Gyaltsen Norbu Sherpa, via the Northwest Face route.

    The region sits within/adjacent to the Api Nampa Conservation Area, established to protect biodiversity and culture in Nepal’s far west.

ITINERARY

Day 1-2 Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel for expedition briefing.

Day 3 Fly from Kathmandu to Dhangadi (1 hour) and drive to Gokuleshowr (8 hours)

Day 4 Drive to Makarigaad (4 hours)

Day 5 Trek to Siti

Day 6 Trek to Simar

Day 7 Trek trek to Api base camp 3584M

Day 8 - 22 Climbing Period for Api Himal Summit (7,123M) (15 Days of climbing, Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, contingency day, Training, and preparation for a summit bid. We will aim 1 rotations between Camp 1 & 2)

Day 23 Trek to Siti

Day 24 Trek to Makarigaad

Day 25 Drive Dhangadi

Day 26 Flight to Kathmandu

Day 27 Rest and relax day in Kathmandu

Day 28 Departure

ACCOMMODATIONS

Day 1 - 2 and 27 - 28(Hotel)

Day 8 - 22 (Alpine Camping)

Who this expedition is for

This is not your regular guided walk-up. It’s for climbers who:

  • Have solid 6,000m experience and are building toward major 7,000m–8,000m objectives

  • Are efficient on fixed lines (jumar/rappel), comfortable on steep snow/ice, and can move in exposed terrain

  • Want a small, serious team—not a caravan

  • Value privacy, high standards, and strong leadership over the cheapest quote

Note - We will be conducting screening on interested applications before accepting the member.

Frontier Series promise (what makes these “special edition”)

Most companies sell what’s easy to sell. The Frontier Series is built around what’s hard to execute:

  • Rarity: least-climbed or underexplored objectives (one–two departures/year max)

  • Small-team strategy: typically 4–8 climbers (max 10)

  • Premium logistics where it matters: strong comms, quality camp systems, proper contingency planning

  • Serious leadership: Certified Sherpa Nepali mountain leadership; IFMGA or NMA certified

  • Preparation built-in: structured training support + kit planning + altitude strategy

Route and climbing strategy

Final route selection depends on conditions, but the expedition is planned around:

  • Establishing a well-organized base camp

  • Progressive load carries and acclimatization

  • One to two rotations (conditions-dependent)

  • A tight summit push window with conservative turnaround rules

Non-negotiable: We prioritize decision-making quality over summit pressure.

  • Shuhan 🇨🇳(2025 Annaprna IV 7525M)

    It took me over a month to finally sit down and write the review, as I’ve been reflecting on the reason I was drawn to Annapurna IV in the first place. The more I climbed, the more I realized what truly matters to me in any expedition — not just altitude or adrenaline, but the sense of exploration and adventure, both outwardly and inwardly. It’s about raw, intact nature, vast landscapes, and the rare chance to explore less “popular” peaks with a small group of people who genuinely adore the mountains.

    NAMAS is really unique in this regard, as they are probably the only operator I’ve come across with that true explorer mindset, organizing expeditions on rarely-climbed 7,000-meter peaks, running small teams, trailblazing rather than following others’ steps, and having a team of Sherpas who are highly competent, caring, and really know what they are doing when it comes to the mountains they operate on — which makes all the difference when you venture onto peaks like Annapurna IV.

    I’ve always been less interested in chasing summits for sheer numbers. What I value is the solitude, the ability to fully enjoy the experience, and hopefully to climb in slightly better style every single time. Annapurna IV, which is a technically demanding, rarely-climbed 7,500-meter peak, seemed to perfectly fit that profile, being challenging but not overcrowded, offering stunning views, where I could try pushing my limits a little bit further without supplemental oxygen.

    If your ideal expedition is similar (to climb with purpose, explore places very few people have been to, and share good vibes with like-minded people who respect the mountains and local culture), Annapurna IV is definitely worth considering, and NAMAS is absolutely the team to go with.

    Of course, I cannot leave the review without mentioning the impressive setup at base camp, the delicious food thanks to the effort of the kitchen crew (I will come back for more scrambled eggs and momos!), the kindness and professionalism of our climbing Sherpas, and the extremely well-organised logistics. I had the pleasure of meeting Bisesh in person in London to discuss my experiences, so didn’t have much exchange with Sushmita prior to booking, but trust me, if here is anything you are unsure about, she is the best and most responsive!

    Simply a 10/10 experience with amazing people. Thank you NAMAS team for making it happen!

    Dr. Ronald Pieters 🇬🇧 🇳🇱 (2023 Annapurna IV)

    Another great expedition! This was my third time with Namas and it exceeded expectations.

    The kindness, skill, and unity of the Namas team was palpable all the time. They again proved to be super-efficient, resourceful, always with a smile, and radiating great team spirit. The sherpas were outstanding. Kind and helpful, with great skill and insight and a good sense of humor. A lot of them knew each other, it had a family feel to it.

    Paljor who helped me last year on Himlung Himal is such a great chap. Rental gear was good, a warm comfy Kailash sleeping bag, Black Diamond crampons, and Harness and helmet. Basecamp set up was excellent and well organised. A nice roomy tent for each and a great communal-dining tent in stunning location.

    We pushed up high quite fast because of a short favourable weather window and finished the expedition a week ahead of schedule! A tough but very interesting mountain. Recommended. I especially got to appreciate and love ‘the wall’, between basecamp and camp 1.

    It was great to have Bisesh as a team member! Looking forward to my next expedition with Namas.

  • 23 Summits

HOW DOES IT WORK?

1. Initial Inquiry and Planning

At NAMAS Adventure, we start by understanding your aspirations and goals. From your first conversation with our expert team, we provide personalized recommendation tailored to your interests. Once the perfect expedition is identified, a deposit secures your spot. We then work closely with you to plan and prepare every detail—from gear selection and training advice to arranging insurance, permits, and logistics.

2. Preparing for the Journey

As your expedition date approaches, we’ll help you finalize all preparations. This includes collecting the final balance payment (typically due 60-90 days before your trip), ensuring all necessary documents are in order, and addressing any remaining questions. Our team is available via email or phone calls to make sure you’re fully prepared and confident for the adventure ahead.

3. On-Expedition Support

Arrive at your destination ready to begin! From pre-expedition briefings and gear checks to the full support of our experienced guides and ground team during your climb, we’re here to ensure everything runs smoothly. With flexibility to adapt to any changes or needs, we’re committed to making your adventure seamless, enjoyable, and unforgettable

  • Another great expedition! This was my third time with Namas and it exceeded expectations...

    ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

    Dr. Ronald Pieters 🇬🇧/🇳🇱

  • Couldn't recommend a better company to climb with.

    ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

    Peter Fishwick 🇬🇧

  • Best expedition company in the Himalayas , Nepal India, and Pakistan.Great communication and hard-working intelligent staff.

    ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

    Lloyd Ellis 🇦🇺🦘

  • Highly recommended! I’ve been on a handful of climbs with other companies and Namas is as good as it gets. Exceptional staff. Can’t say enough

    ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

    Ian Taylor 🇺🇸

API HIMAL FAQs

  • Api Himal is located in the remote Darchula District of far-western Nepal, near the borders of India and Tibet. It lies within the Gurans Himal range and is known for its untouched beauty, isolation, and peaceful surroundings.

  • Autumn (Late September - November) is another great climbing window in overall Nepal.

  • Api is considered an advanced 7000m expedition and is graded TD+ (Technical Difficile Plus), alpine grade 4.

    The route includes steep snow slopes, vertical sections, exposed ridges, and mixed rock-ice terrain. Fixed lines are placed on technical sections, but climbers must be proficient in:

    • Rock and mixed climbing

    • Climbing in deep snow and cold conditions

    • Rappelling and ascending fixed lines efficiently

    • Traversing exposed, technical alpine terrain

    This is not a “guided walk-up.” Api demands solid alpine experience, strong physical fitness, and mental resilience in high-altitude conditions.

  • Climbing Api Himal is a serious but achievable challenge for intermediate mountaineers. You’ll need to be comfortable using crampons, ascending with a jumar, and descending with a 10–15kg pack.

Experiences - preprations - team

  • The Frontier Expedition Series is for climbers drawn to exploration over popularity. These are remote, unpredictable expeditions where outcomes are not guaranteed and decision-making matters as much as physical strength.

    Participation is by vetted application only. We screen for experience, adaptability, and mindset to ensure each team is prepared for true exploratory climbing.

    If you value uncertainty, self-reliance, and the spirit of early Himalayan expeditions, this may be the right path for you.

  • Api Himal is suited for climbers with prior high-altitude expedition experience, ideally above 5000M –7,000 meters. You should be comfortable on multi-week expeditions in remote environments with limited infrastructure, variable conditions, and non-standard routes. Experience on lesser-known or logistically complex peaks is a strong advantage.

    This is not an introductory Himalayan climb.

  • This is a serious 7000M climb, so you need to be in top physical shape. Expect long days (8–12 hours) at high altitude with a 10–15kg pack. Focus on endurance (e.g., 5–6 hour hikes), strength training (e.g., squats, deadlifts), and high-intensity intervals (e.g., VO2 max sessions).

    You need a high level of aerobic endurance, strength, and recovery capacity. Expect long carries, extended summit pushes, and sustained effort at altitude with minimal external support. You should be able to move efficiently for 8–12 hours on consecutive days, tolerate prolonged cold, and recover well between hard efforts.

    Mental fitness—patience, resilience, and decision-making under fatigue—is equally critical.

  • Yes, Api Himal involves moderate technical climbing (TD+/4 grade), including rock climbing, glacier routes and steep snow/ice ridges (up to 50°). You should be comfortable with fixed ropes, jumaring, and basic ice climbing. If you’ve climbed 6000M peaks in Nepal and other technical peaks around the world, you’re on the right track. Our IFMGA/NNMGA-certified guides will lead the way and provide refresher training at base camp.

    • 5000 - 6500 M peak of mountain summit. Your adaptability to high altitude and climbing on high steep terrains.

    • Rock climbing grade 5.7 - 5.9

    • Commitment to regular endurance and strengthening training.

    • Climbing with crampons on and understand the nature of physical demands that the mountain requires.

    • Ascending with jumar and descending on fixed rope

  • Once you book with us we provide a 16 week training program from Training Peak.Begin training at least 16 weeks before departure. Key areas include:

    • Cardio: Run, cycle, or hike 4–5 times weekly to build endurance.

    • Strength: Focus on legs, core, and upper body with exercises like lunges and pull-ups.

    • Altitude Preparation: Practice hikes at elevation or use a hypoxic tent.

    • Technical Skills: Brush up on rope work,

  • On this expedition we aim to have max 10 climbers, we have 1 Main guide who will be IMFGA or NMA certified. He will be the main leader of the team. We believe that Nepalese certified guides are more than capable in this day and age and have an excellent level of English. We are committed to responsible tourism and want to enhance and prioritise local Nepalese leaders first, but if the clients request a western guide personally then we can have that arranged.

    Sherpa ratio 1:1. Our Sherpas are NMA (Khumbu climbing centre trained/certified). Additional Personal Sherpa for 1:1 can be arranged who will be solely responsible for the clients but extra additional charges apply. Our Sherpas have an intermediate level of English. Can understand, reply and instruct very well.

  • Suggested Additional Summit tips $1000.

  • No — you don’t. One of the unique aspects of climbing in Nepal is the high level of support. Our Sherpa team handles all logistics at high camps, including:

    • Setting up tents

    • Melting snow for water

    • Preparing basic meals

    This allows you to focus fully on the climb, rest, and recovery.
    Please note that at high altitudes, meals and water service are basic and may take time due to conditions — your patience is appreciated.